mm88swrt

http://www.frozenrotors.com/ will drill or slot the factory rotors. I got a set from them a long time ago so i dont remember what they cost. Other than that just good pads like jono said. Do you have rear disk? That alone makes a huge difference

Ive had my electric fan not working before and only ran the clutch fan. Didnt have any over heating problems. Im actually going to twin electric fans and getting rid of the clutch fan.

Id be down once i get the motor back in. I dont have fb or anything so id have to keep up to speed through this. Should have it together within a month.

I did some searching and found stuff stating that it can be done. but I've not found any proof of it being possible and what customizations have to be made. I've got the xt6 5 lug swap done. I know the outer front axles will work there. but the trans is a female not a male like the xt6 correct? I'm thinking I would have to run impreza axles. and then comes the gear ratio matching with the rear end and driveline length I believe is shorter. if anyone has any info on this I would love to hear it. I'm going to continue clicking on the search button in the meantime! forgot to mention I'm going to be doing a ej20t swap from a 94-96 sti

On my 87 gl-10 i have the stock header on there which will come off soon and be replaced with a equal length 2" twe header. Other then that its a custom 2.25 from the turbo back. Only one high flow cat in the middle and an ebay special muffler. And it has that deep rumble to it like a 2.0 rex. It gets mistaken for having a swap all the time. But i also have an intake, oversized valves, cams... you know, the good stuff . Most ea82 cars i hear around here with exhaust are really raspy, im glad mine is deaper. Waiting to hear it with the header and a 2.5 down pipe once i get the td04 turbo on

I concur with tombba. The difference would be with the bov. I've got a full atmospheric mounted to my fmic on my 87. It's adjustable and came with two different springs. Took some tuning to get it set right but at idle it should be fully closed. As far as your vacuum line going to it, it can be connected anywhere on your manifold best to do so after the throttle body. I can't post pictures from my phone, but if you pm me I can text you some pics if you would like.

216BFWAAFSM - Amber/White 52mm A/F Ratio Gauge - stepper motor . it's a prosport (older) premium series gauge. 5 wire set up. ground, acc, acc on, headlight switch and then on wire for the O2 signal. would this gauge work with a wideband O2? i've got no problem just installing another O2 if it's not a pain in the A$$.

That was another option I was thinking, just running two 02 sensors. But my question would be is how to just hook the wideband up.

It only has one wire for the input signal.

so i've searched my socks off, and can't find anything on hooking up an a/f gauge on an ea82t with a single wire O2 sensor. i do know that the readings will not be super accurate but it will give me a refference to go off of untill i get all the fuel mods done. right now it is hooked up to the 45pin i believe off the ecu. this is the wire my book was telling me is the O2 wire. i also check it to make sure it was the wire i wanted. but i do not get any reading out of it. would it work to get wide band and hook it up and somehow use my single wire from the body harnes to hook up to it? if i could just get it to work with my single wire for now that would be fine with me.

Yes that could very well be the problem. As far as my original ecu goes, that thing is toast lol. The other one may just be the problem you're speaking of. Thanks again for all of your help!

Problem has been solved!!! Tracked it down to being the ecu. I have a feeling there are a few differences between auto and manual trans ecus. I got an auto ecu out of an 89 gl-10, and put it in my car (green white wires swapped) and the fuel pump started working again. Car runs great again and now I have an all new ignition system lol. Thanks everyone for all the help, it helped me out a ton. Hopefully this won't happen again!!!

Positive no fuel. I will check for injector pulse later today if I can move . There is power every 1.5seconds to the fuel pump pin at control unit(55) and power to the fuel relay. It seems to open and close just fine. I get the one click from it when I turn the key on, but still no pump noise. I'm also going to hardline my fuel pump to 12v to see if it works. Random note of the day my ecu is popping up with trouble code 44... Wtf is code 44 it doesn't exist. Also for me to get spark from this ecu I had to swap the white and green wires that go to the ditsy. If I hardline the open side of the fuel pump relay in turn that should kick the pump on correct? I'm just really thinking I need an ecu with the number 36 on it, not 20. I have a feeling there may be a slight difference!!! And my coil wires WERE backwards when I first installed the motor. The yellow wire from ditsy is just the tach wire correct? I want to delete the digi one in my dash. I've got an aftermarket one.

Ok so here is an update. Got a used ecu out of an 88... Installed all my new parts (ignition ignitor and such). I HAVE SPARK!!!! BUT I AM NOT GETTING ANY FUEL!!! All the tests ive ran out of my manual say to replace the control unit. The ecu i pulled out of my car has the number 36 on it. The one I got in there now has a 20 on it. Are the pins different from those two ecu's? I am kind of thinking I need a "20" ecu. Seeming as i have spark now, I am holding the ecu accountable for this mess!

My car was originally an auto. So would I need an auto ecu? Or would the pins be the same from a manual vehicle? I have a manual one i can pick up today

So the ditsy volt readings came out in spec. I DO have power going to the ecu. And power where it needs to be on both the ignition and fuel relays, yet the fuel pump does not kick on when I turn the key on. Still no led on the ecu when I turn it on. I've found a ignition amplifier so I will hopefully have that tomorrow. I'm going to try and find two new relays just in case. Power on both sides of all fuses.

they are the impreza 8" coils, and went with a 300 for the front and 250 for the rear. working out an ignition issue right now to get it running again and break the motor in. then i will know how they handle on the road. but they feel like they will do just fine!!! and thank you!!! she's not pretty but she is super funcional!!!

got the ground control coilovers installed, and also the hella supertones. race buckets thrown in! new motor installed just working out some bugs and she will be prowling around!

All idiot lights come on when key is on, but no led from the ecu. I'm searching for an ignition amplifier to replace the one I have to see if it fixes my problem. Also running tests on the other things.

personally I always punch out the rollpin, and break the castle nut free. from there I pop off the tie rod end and the lower ball joint. with the strut still bolted in i find i get enough play out of it to work the axle assembly out. either way you can complete the task. i just don't mess with the control arm if i don't have to. the can be a pain in the back sometimes!

All fuses are good under dash and so are the fusible links. I checked for voltage on the plug the ditsy plus into and only one wire had 12v going to it. Not sure what the readings should be at that plug.

decided to make my own thread to pertain to my vehicle model! as stated it's an 87 ea82t. i do not have spark from the coil. just put a rebuilt motor in! fired up with no problems and about an hour into it the tach freaked out and the motor fell on it's face.all mechanical aspects of the motor are working properly. have 12v on both sides of my new coil. got a new to me ditsy out of a running vehicle. as stated in another post the green and white wire are different on the 87s. i switched the wires with no results. do not have any codes from the ecu. fuel pump does not turn on when key is on due to the ignition system not working correct? i'm beating my head on a wall with this one, can't seem to figure it out. in my head something had to of fried electrically just from the nature of how it ran great then ate s**t. maybe the ecu?

Correction, do not have a pulse from the ditsy on - side of the coil.

Could this switch be done by simply swapping the ditsy plugs? The one i got was off an 88 I believe, had the square 4 pin on the ditsy. My car has the round 4 pin, so I simply swapped the ditsy harness. I will look closer at them to double check the wires match up the same. Is the difference the actual wiring coming off the crank angle sensor itself? Correct me if I'm wrong, you are saying I can take the green and white wire from the ditsy and swap/splice so it has the green hooked up to the white and vice versa?

Could it perhaps be the little round guy on my strut tower, right below the ignition coil? Runs online off the black wire that goes to the ditsy I think. Not 100% sure of the wire color but it is off one of them for sure. Just so I'm sure we are on the same page mine is an 87 gl10 with the "seeing eye" ditsy