mm88swrt

If you are looking to flush the system you can do a gravity bleed. Open all the bleeders and let them flow until you see clean fluid. Then bleed them with pressure as you would normally. Just keep an eye on you fluid level as noted.

Where would this be located? And is there a way to test it?

Also have no codes from the ecu. Read memory I get no led at all

So on my end of the story I've got a new coil, new to me ditsy out of a running car, 12v on both sides of the coil. Slight pulse on - side of coil. It's faint on my test light. Is it possible the ecu got fried? The wires on my old coil were backwards.

Would the same diagnostics pertain to an 87 gl-10 (ea82) ? I'm having the same issues.

Well I got a newer working ditsy in the car now, but still having the same issue. Wondering if maybe the coil is bad? It's a blaster II coil that came with the car. Just to make sure the tiring going to it is correct, black wires to the + and y&b wires to the -? If not the coil maybe the ignition control unit? On a good note I got the ground control coil overs intalled!!!

Do you happen to know what this box looks like, and where it is at? I had a leak in the windshield for a bit and was dripping down by the fuse box area. Maybe it went bad. I'm not sure. Currently trying to find a ditsy to test out

That's what I'm thinking I will try. I've got to try and find one at a yard to see if it will change things. Is there a way to test the ditsy? I looked in my factory manuals and could not find anything. As for now she sits lifeless. Would this also make the fuel pump not kick on when in the key on position?

well i've gotten the motor put in, everything went super smooth. got all the stuff hooked up and she fired right up!!! HLA noise as expected went away and motor was running great for an hour and a half. turned the car on and off a few times through out the day. no problems at all.... untill a few hours ago when i started it and it was idling, the dash lights blinked and the tack would fall and come back at the same time. did that a few times and then died. would not start back up. i've seen the same symptoms when the ditsy would fill up with oil as i talked about, but to my suprise when i took it out and looked at it the darn thing was dry. i'm thinking maybe the "eye" in it is bad? the fusible links are all good and have great connections. i pulled the ditsy out a few times and disconnected the battery. i could get it to fire up again now and then but just for a few seconds. when i try to fire it i get all lights but the fuel pump does not kick on when key is turned on. the tack jumps then rests at 0 when key is turned on, but when cranking it does not register. i'm getting stumped and really bumbed seeming as though i'm about 5k deep into my motor. anyone got any suggestions? i will try anything! thanks

Yes it is a 1.8t mpfi. O ring on the shaft is new. I replace stuff like that every time it comes out for good measures. It is the "seeing eye" type distributor so no vacuum lines to worry about. I just completed a full bearing out build so everything is sealed up as it should be. Have not got all the intake stuff put back on it yet. Doing that this weekend. It could be the pcv system... I had to fab my own up due to the changes from usdm to jdm. If I recall correctly the passenger side breather goes directly to my catch can. The driver side comes off the breather to the factory jdm long plastic tube thing that runs along the block behind the intake... One outlet of the tube goes to the pcv valve and the other to the connection on the backside of my spider intake. I would post a picture but I'm stuck up in Seattle right now. But hopefully that kind of creates a good picture of what I'm working with.

This has happened to me twice now in my 87 Gl-10. Be driving along just fine and when the car would get under a substantial load (head wind or big hill) the car would start to sputtered then fully cut out. Problem was the ditsy had filled up with oil, and fouled out the electronics inside. I've taken it apart and cleaned it, but I want a solid fix. Not just a clean up. I'm not sure what causes this, but my finger is pointing at high crank case pressure? The motor is from Japan. And the first time it happened was 200 miles after I put the motor in. Second time I know for certain I had a ring landing blown! Is there a replacement seal I can get for the ditsy shaft? I am trying to steer clear of spending 200 on a reman. Thanks!

Contacted delta today. What ken had to say was pick up some #10 ss washers and put them underneath the lifters. Which is what I was thinking of doing. I did not get around to asking about what profile my cams have on them or any measurements. Just the issue at hand. So its all getting taken care of, one I get my new HLA's in the mail, along with those washers. Everyone here has been a great help! Thanks. Now I just need to get it running, and fuel stuff taken care of and I will post a dyno sheet

I will get a Mic on them as soon as I get back into town. Looks like its another trip to the machine shop for this guy either that or I will call delta tomorrow and get the specs from them. Then Mic mine just to double check. With that being said I'm hoping it will not advance the timing to much.

I did have the valves seated by the machine shop that did my block. All of the valves were set to factory depth. If new lifters do not solve it, I see two options. A:replace my brand new oversized ss valves, or b: put a small shim behind my litter to move it out just a hair. Any objections to b? Would be easy and not mess up any oil flow.

Well I just ordered a new set of lifters from ram performance. Hopefully it will pull up some slack in the clearance side of things. If not I will try to seek other ways of dealing with it. Maybe shim my lifter out just a bit, I'm not really sure. I just don't see Cams slapping around my followers all day as being a healthy pair.

Great help guys! I'm going to be tearing it apart today to inspect it. Should I be able to push all of the lifters? About half of them are to stiff to push by hand

i put my delta regrinds in and realized at any given time two of my followers were not contacting the lobes. was wonder if there was a tollerance between the two or if they are supposed to have full time contact. i don't have my factory manuals with me which is why i'm asking. and advice would help:popcorn:

i happen to be one of those guys that are dumping around 5k into an ea82t. 1300 of that was all machine work. pistons are a very weak spot. i've blown ring landings on two sets.... here is what i've got in there now. wiseco forged pistons (factory spec) acl bearings paeco head studs oversized ss valves revtech valve springs delta regrind cams had the block decked, fully balanced internals, resurfaced the heads and seated the valves. once i get it in and running i'm dropping in evo IIX injectors i think they are(info is somewhere) and not sure what tuning system i am going to use yet. got a twe header & down pipe (brand new!!!) with td04 flanges to run the rex turbo. i'm sitting around the 5k mark right now... and it's not even in the vehicle yet. and i still dont' have my fuel stuff.... so it is expensive. i'm not sure how long it will last but hopefully last to whoop on some rigs. I have no clue what i'm going to end up with for power. but as far as daily driving i'm only going to tune it to run about 9-10 psi to make it last. i've also done the 5 lug swap, 6 puck clutch, fmic, lowered on ground control kit, 88dl trans(shortest gears), 2.25 turbo back exhaust, high flow cat and ebay special can! if it dies, oh well... i'll just build a gc! i've always wanted to build the ea82 but do it with good parts so it didn't just go :pop: right away. i wish you the best of luck. keep it cooled and keep it fueled! oil cooler as noted, i'm moving my turbo further from the head and that will help a lot as well. i'm hoping to have the time to drop the motor in soon!

my 87 gl-10 has 105k one the body... there are to many parts from other cars to give accurate millage! i'm about to drop in my monster ea82t transplant back into it. after about a total of 5k it should be somewhere around 230-250 whp once tuned we shall see

; this is when i had the 15" pugs on it. currently sitting on some 16" enki's with the 5 lug swap done. soon to be some 17" rota grids!!!!

Should have the gl-10 somewhere close to done by then. It seems like the list gets longer as it gets shorter tho. As usual!

i've usually always used the bracket on the rear of the motor for the motor mount bar. and on the front i believe it is the p/s bracket that has a hole on it for bolting a chain to it. just my 2 cents! throw a 4x4 in the mix and it comes out with ease

What year range of 200sx for the calipers? I'm looking at doing this soon as I collect the correct parts