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Everything posted by Legback
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I read somewhere that even tire pressure was critical in keeping the 4wd diffs from suffering. I had crappy tires on for four years that I was always pumping and they were wrong more than they were right. When I did my oil separator cover, I noticed a silverish ooze coming out of the bottom of the circular cover around the drives on the sides of the front diff. Connecting the dots....prolonged bad tire pressure and low diff fluid leads to that whining noise.... what next? Start tranny shopping?
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It seems like since I did the oil separator I get this whistle a high rpm. Only when she downshifts and jumps to 5000rpm and then the whistle goes away the second it upshifts again and the rpms drop. Never heard that noise before. The transmission fluid is at the proper level. Front diff is a touch high.
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I used the handles of a pair of channel locks to grip the t handle on the plug boot and made a fulcrum with a screw driver handle to pry against. Wasn't pretty but it worked. Removed the battery and washer reservoir for right side and air filter box for passenger side ease of access. A foot of 3/8 rubber hose is a must for starting in your new plugs within the week. Impossible without it.
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My front diff started whining a year or so ago and that along with a bad plug wire\plug made me think I'd better jump on the chance to aquire a backup tranny. Turns out I do not need a tranny at all. I needed to fill\change my front diff oil and replace plugs and wires. I moved\replaced the knock sensor too. It's a new car besides the quieter but still present front diff whine which I suspect over time will give way to front diff malfunction.
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I replaced one semi siezed caliper and it felt sooo good that I replaced the other one for the sake of symetry. I wish I'd taken the time to paint them! Mine from Napa were an oily natural finish when I got them. The oil wore off and now they're a shade of rust. Should have painted. Woulda, shoulda, coulda, maybe I still can.
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Yes, RTV gray. I laid a bead around the holes and along the proper surface. They gave me used screws for mounting..including the black one which he said was different because it left more clearance. I picked up on that screw being black cause it has locktite on it so I put some loctite on that screw only cause it had been in and out of something already. How long does that rtv take to set up? It had 6hrs.
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Next time I will pull the engine fo sho. Good experience but I'm not sure the leak is fixed as there are still a mess of drips on the jack plate. Could be the oil pan I guess? Heads are leaking lightly and passenger side (cam?) leaks out of timing belt cover. May be chasing leaks for ever!! Can anyone recommend a gasket set?
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For what it's worth...I replaced my starter and had the same issue. Intermittent failures. It's a knuckle job right? It occurred to me that maybe I quit a little early on the starter mounting bolts. I went back in and re-tightened the bolts and never had problem since...(rata tat tat on my simulated wood desk). I mean...dug deep... from the aXX.... tight. Like you wanna kill it. Fixed it. Longer ratchet? Got change for a nickle? -T
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My 98 has a bad rear main seal. It has been heavily leaking for over a year. Could this have led to a whining output bearing? It's causes vibration around my automatic shift lever in the cabin. There is also a distinct 'roller coatster' noise a lot of the time. It often sounds like something's rattling aroung when accelerating. Any ideas??:-\ Trev