The Dude Abides

Thought i would start this thread since i have had multiple failures this past week alone. Back brakes are worn out. NO warning or anything they just started grinding on both sides Both headlights blew this week. They were 4 years old so i did get my moneys worth but while driveing home from work at night isnt the best time for that to happen. But then again it never is. Drivers Side CV shaft is bad. Its clicking when im driving in a strait line now. Its on borrowed time. Something is up with the front end. When im driveing on wet surfaces i can feel the passanger side move to the left and right but not the drivers side. Doesnt seem to effect the other front suspension though. Heat is still not great. Need to replace the rad and look at that possible leak at the weephole. I had to donate the battery to my other car because of these problems so now it wont even move. Oh and it wont stop fast idleing. Oh what a week

So while attempting to fix the random jumping idle i seem to have uncovered something worse. When i replaced the IAC with a good used one i have a high idle problem now. I mean like 3 or 4 k high idle problem. It goes down at some points but then goes right back up. It has been idleing so high lately that it has blown both of my headlights out. One went out 2 days ago and the other tonight. Any ideas where this super fast idle is coming from.

Im number 37. The question is. Which one are you bringing.

I understand mick and youve been planning this trip. But you are the man with the most modified subaru in the state. I just feel sad that when people need to look at a old school subaru they look at my car.

YES are local pieces of crap welcome here as well. This is an old school get to gether boys. I know all the new rides will be there. Cummon mick - brent youve got to have one free dam weekend.

Probally not till next year but the iowa omaha one.

Thanks boys, placing calls to both people.

I was thinking possibly a rx or an xt for weight but again rx only has an ea engine and the xts parts are rare to find. But if i found one beat to crud already might not be to bad of an investment.

Looks nice, i so wish i had picked that up befoe you. On a side note man, you really need to get a new camera. My old cannon i curse every day i use it takes a better picture then that.

Yea i hear ya, this thing starts pretty slowly so im sure the cables are corroded big time. Will be worth it if we have another bad winter. 850 cold cranking amps baby. Should get a new battery in a couple of weeks.

Yea its not a oval track its a roac course. Legacys are heavy as hell huh. I thought about a DL or a GL with a legacy motor and tranny but the suspension is key also. I need something i can either up grade or modify. And wheels are key also because its easier to bomb around a course with 16inch steelies vs 13inch or hard to find 15 inch.

So i have been asked to be a driver / mechanic in the 24 hour of lemons race next year. Now also i am one of a couple given the duty of finding a car. The rules state that you cant spend no more then 500 bucks on this lemon to race it. So here is what im looking for. It needs to be fast so all loyale and there brothers are out. It needs to be light so all station wagons are out. I want it to be awd. I need it to last a constant 24 hours. So im thinking 90-94 subaru legacy awd 5 speed. It doesnt need to look good it just needs to run and drive. It will be gutted and all glass removed most likely. If you can think up of any other car i would be interested in hearing what you had to say. Ben

So i should check out the cables before i second guess the battery.

You know this started happening after mudcoast. I wonder if i pushed back the rad craddle when i hit that mud hole hard.

Just curious if there is a way to adjust the hood popper. Mine is extremely tight am im afraid ill just break it. I need to use all my might to pull the cord to pop the hood.

Ok update. Jump started the car tonight and it ran fine. Had it running for 30 minutes while i looked over certain things made sure a couple of things were ship shape. Turned the car off then went to turn it back on (click) nada. So in saying this. The alternator is good enough to keep all the lights, interior lights and everything else powered when the car is running. But the battery probally has a dead cell causeing it not to be able to get charged. Or is it possible the terminals and wires are so crudded up from neglect that there not allowing current to get back to the battery to charge it. Theres a pretty good onion growing on the positive terminal but its been six months since ive cleaned up the last one. 99.9 percent sure its the battery but who knows. I need to clean up the electrical connections so that will be my sunday project. On a side note, anyone know why my headlights and interior lights might flicker every once in a while.

Most of the batterys i have checked run 14.50 when charging on the car.

So im almost 99% sure the battery crapped out on my taurus. It will start with a jump and when its running it puts out 14.50 volts on the voltimeter. When i turn on the headlights and the heater it still puts out 14.50 volts which leats me to believe the alternator is doing its job. But the battery doesnt seem to be holding a charge. After i jumped it it started 4 times after then and then it was dead. I let it run for about 15 minutes after i jumped it. While it was running the interior lights would flicker alittle bit makeing me think the alternator might be at fault. Im new to useing the multimeter but i know i hooked it up right. Any suggestions.

Wow interesting thread. The s-10 blazer with the 4.3 is a far better vehicle then a 4runner. Sorry its just one of those chevy nitch vehicles that just worked. And +1 on the yotas being really overpriced. I had a guy want 3k for a 4 runner all rusted out with 200k on the clock. It still could be the rear main for the leak though. How fast is it coming out.

Sorry to hear about this tom. Best of luck fixing it, what do you think the insurance company is going to say when you take it to a body shop to paint match.

Since youve got the holes why not put in another cross brace between the 2 plates to make it more ridgid. http://desmoines.craigslist.org/pts/1910923477.html

LOL ok ill forgive you............ this time.

Wow.

Its koo wasnt tryin to get on your butt. Keep posting about your headlights i am interested in the outcome.

I already adressed this for you my man. The middles unscrew from the top pad. If you get someone to get you nicer door panels from a GL you can unscrew the middle from the pads and mount the pads on your existing pannels. You can even use the new bottoms on the front if necessary. When you get your pannels you just need to look at the back of the door pannels and thell explain themselves. I recomend you do this when you are installing your door speakers. Also i wouldnt think you would need more then 6 1/2 for the front doors. Plenty of speakers in that size range.