The Dude Abides

Looks like your running 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 pipe. If so im going to be running either 3/4 or 1inch pipe. Did you try mounting your lights to the pvc but found it was to flimsy. This is someting ive been wondering.

You better use the search function first. Dont want anyone getting bent out of shape having to answer a common question. What usually happens is that people who replace teh water pump replace alot of other stuff. Since they have it torn apart so far they usually replace the timing belt, pullys and tensioners. Reseal the oil pump, front main seal, cam seals, am i missing anything here boys.

I like the fact you take alot of pictures vanishing. Though your subaru stuck out like a pimple on a model. And congrats on getting it back running. After you fix the front end you should get it repainted.

You got really lucky its not that bad of damage. Hatchsub is correct, just try to bend out the fender and check the boneyards for a bumper and upper trim piece of the same color. My estimate cost for you to fix less then 300 bucks. Thats if you wanted the new fender.

Thanks for posting the pics, im going to be running mine alittle different though.

Oh for cripes sakes man i just wanted to see what he did. I have my own darn design in mind. Sheesh. Take it down a notch. PVC didnt come up on the search i did:lol:

I wasnt going to do the bolts, but i need to make sure everything is cut up and lined up perfect before i take it apart and paste it together. Ive also been thinking about takeing some cheep angle iron and running it through the center of the long pieces. Might be overkill but it would eliminate all flex in the pipe. Ive also made a call to desmoines steel for some diamond steel flooring:brow:

This whole thing came about when i saw others roof racks. Though they were metal and made nicely they sat on top of the yakama roof racks which to me made it just way to tall. Ive configured up a way to use the 2 existing roof bars with a plethara of PVC pipeing which will distribute the weight equally among both sides as well as putting some lighting into play. Just waitng on getting the materials and figuring out the sizes and whatnot. I should be tearing apart the wheel bearing, but this is more fun.

Im gonna need a better picture then that.

So before i came across said video i was curious about this if it would work. To some extent if you dont make the pieces to long it reduces the flex they have. Kinda like legos. Could possibly be very strong, say maybe if they had two metal supports in the middle. Will it work. Your going to find out.

The simplest of things seem to solve problems. Been fightin the steering wheel in this new car for a few weeks now. So i drop off the little one at preschool and decide to check the tire pressure in the wifes van. Woah was it low. 20 on 3 and 15 on one. Filled it up to propper inflation and drive it home. Man was a new vehicle. So i decide to run the taurus down and check the air pressure on that. Lets just say the numbers were really bad but after propper adjustment everything runs really smooth now. Its amazing how the simplest of things corrects seemingly major problems. Ben

Thanks twitch, good thing this car came with a manual so i can find out where the heck that thing is LOL.

Oh yea it blows hot hot heat.

All they tell me is call the ford hotline. I was like your stupid this is something easy. I dont know. Cant believe i need to go to a subaru websight to get an answer for a ford. But here we go. My 1995 Ford Taurus has a temp problem. I know its winter but the fan never turns on. Even my vans fan will turn on when the thing heats up. And the temp gauge never gets off c. Now i have recently topped off the coolant and burped the system so now i have hot hot heat. But the temp gauge never goes off c. I know it works because it does move alittle. Heres the question. If the t-stat is stuck open would that not cause the temp gauge or the car to heat up. When i burped the system i felt the coolant warming up but that was with the cap off. But if the tstat was stuck open wouldnt that not allow me to have good heat. Thanks All Ben

I like your paint scheme. Red with the white stripes. I would go full legacy drivetrain though. Would be an awsome canyon carver.

When i had a shop. I tried to keep it to one project at a time. But if i had to shove something a side i woudl put all of it in a huge rubbermade container and mark it. As far as tools you can let that get out of hand. I finally took the time after a few years reoganizing and cleaning all my tools. It helps when your working on something to know where your tools are. I have major ocd but im also a procrastinator and i get overwhelmed easy. I had places for everything. Scrap wood, car parts, things like that. Usually if im not going to use it anytime soon ill get rid of it. Get yourself a good workbench if you dont have one already. Old kitchen cabnets work nice. Organization is key and you will thank yourself when you say, where did i put my jumper cables then ohh there they are.

Honestly you dont need much power then what you got with the ea82. Plenty of people wheel with that engine and done seem to have to much trouble. Do they want more, yes but what they have is fine. You already have fuel injection which is miles above the carb setup these vehicles had in 87. If you really want to change engines then the ej22 is the way to go. But since your only wheelin it and drivin in the snow i would think the engine in the car is fine.

:-\

If it involves sellign the brat or the svx i say forget it.

That throwback pepsi will be the end of you my friend.

See the lift im doing is the one one eye and some of the washington guys run. 2 inch blocks on the strut towers and lift bars on the rear shocks. I was looking into if anyone had added the tempo/accord combo for 3 inches of lift. I now know that no one has done this and in order to do this yoiu would need to lower the rear diff, trans, and engine with a 2 inch block to offset the extreme angle the axels would be at. Guys i have the info i need and i thank you again for helping me and trying to guide me in the right direction. Im new at the lift offroad thing but ill learn.

For give me for my ignorance, but would the taller springs give more flex or is that limited buy the trailing arms.

See this part intriques me. Ive seen the plates made buy SJR and it doesnt seem to hard to configure up the rear mounting plate. And if all you need is a 1 inch block under the engine and tranny. Then wouldnt this truly be a viable option for a 3 inch lift. Possibly easier to install as well. Minus locateing and installing the tempo/accord springs of course.

Alittle off topic. I scored a awsome set of jumper cables at a garage sale this summer. If you know what im talking about, the newer ones you get in the store are thin and cheaply made. These are hardcore old school. The kind when it gets cold you can hardly move them. Nice thick copper wireing. And at 5 bucks who could go wrong.