The Dude Abides

Ok Gotcha. Another Question. Sure you got the winning powerball numbers. Things will get better twitch. Keep your chin up.

Huhhhhh you absolutely need to elaborate on that last paragraph. And not to make a bad night worse twitch. But as a pizza delivery guy youve got to make sure your ride is in tip top shape. Especially your tires. Just my 2cents and sorry you had so much trouble tonight.

Bump

Maybe someone with more knowledge on these cars will chime in. And mick what my car lacks in options yours excells in lamas

Shoot because thats what i did. I pluged in the green connectors and checked to see if i had anything flashing and nothing was flashing so no codes. I thought i read in that thread that to erase the codes you need to start the car while the green connectors were plugged in.

If theres one thing my car is lacking, its options.

So the 4 connections up buy the firewall are for diagnostics. If i plug in the green ones and run the car what will happen. It will clear the codes but im trying to run the d check and cant find the right connection to make. Ben

Ive been having some problems with my car, so while i was pokein around the engine i found 3 vacumelines undone:eek:. But that didnt solve all of my problems. I found all of these loose wires and was wondering if the good people on the USMB could help me identify them. This was under the dashboard in the main wire loom. This was in a wire loom hooked up to the air conditioning. These were on the vacume lines and i have no idea what the heck they are. This greasy yellow wire was found behind the water pump pully. It leads into the wire loom just behind where the wire is pictured. Right above the passanger side timeing cover. These are on the drivers side up buy the fuel filter. I thought this was the d-check terminal but when i connected them all they did was make a buzzing noise over and over again. There is a black and a yellow connection i have no idea where those connect to as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Ben

Mine idles high (after midwest Meet). But now when its cold it falls on its face. I need to jack up the rpms to about 2000 or more to get the thing going. Other wise it burps and kicks and has no power. Now after 5 minutes this goes away but its annoying as hell. I almost got nailed in a intersection because it did that. It would be a good time to flush your powersteering system tom, since youll have the resevour off. I might do mine this weekend. Is the o-ring on the resevour or the one for the IAC your talking about. And why did you get a subaru PCV valve. Thats one of the few parts i thought you could get away with not buying from the stealership.

You throwin a code tom, or idleing high.

Tom Its funny but im having the same frickin problem you are. Theyve told me to check the IAC and yes i believe you can remove it without the resevour but its a pain in the butt. Im going to be doing this at some point as well. You might as well pull the resevour off and replace the o-ring so you prevent leaking in the future. Then clean your iac and reinstall. What are you suspost to clean the thing with. Ben

I always regret selling something i care about. I always think did i really need the money that bad. It was ok sitting there. Your right someone might enjoy it more but you put more miles on that car then i put on 11 thousand in 4 years i put on 5000 miles in 2 years. And thats my DD.

You talking about this setup. If you are you need the DL from 85-89 houseings, brackets, just about everything is different. Its even wired different.

Sorry for the bum advice there bill. It for sure sounded like the ignition system. Who knew a vacume line would cause that. Atleast if you part it out you have a new ignition system for one of your other cars.

I can see what your talking about with the shelving. You should contact sears and see if you can get some additional ones.

I dont own one but have seen a couple here. Id say for 100 bucks buy it. If it doesnt work out, part it out and sell the rest to the scrap yard. If the body is solid and the only thing mechanically wrong is the timeing belt id say go for it. Correct me if im wrong but it should have the same motor and tranny that my 88 dl wagon does. Just the mpfi instead of the spfi. For 100 bucks id say do it. The rear disc setup is worth atleast that.

That would seem easy to me. Your not getting a high of a spark then your idleing but when your movin you create a bigger spark. Seems you have an ignition problem wheather it be plugs, wires, cap, rotor, disty, or coil. You choose.

Ill work on it tomorrow. Tomorrows my birthday, i hate my birthday. I might as well do something fun.

thats 88 or newer for FI:)

You seriously need a headcound of what year and model of subaurs you have. I saw 5 in one shot just lined up;

The GL is more luxo then the Loyales are. As i said before, i would get the GL for the low range alone. See if you can find a GL-10 or even a touring wagon. There even more luxo then the standard GL. And make for dam sure its a 5 speed not an automatic.

I have the push button 4wd and it is limited to its capability as a 4wd vehicle. YOu may only need 4low in your one time in owning the vehicle but it will be worth it.

A clean MAF and New filter helped a bit. Probally wasnt hardly getting any air with the wet muddy filter. Still has some problems so heres whats going to happen. Replace the PCV - because it probally needs it Clean IAC - because it probally needs it Run the D-check - figure out whats wrong and how to run the check lol Seafoam - because it probally needs it

Do you have an express line at the DOT or something.