Scarpachy

Looks like the large O-ring is the same on your 00 as it is on the 03-04's. Nate Wade Subaru (800)221-4287) can order it, they are currently out of stock. Part #42025AE02A, $33.03 list price. You might double check on part number when you call. They only list it out for the 03-04. Here is a link to a parts diagram. Item #12 . And if you see the compatible vehicles,yours is listed. You might even be able to call them, and a lot of times the parts bag has the dimensions listed on them. But they may need one in stock before they could give you that info. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/fuel_tank/illustration_2/

We have fixed two Outbacks in the past month with similiar issues. Both cars were losing fuel pressure, and causing lack of performance. Or causing hard starts. Allowing the fuel pressure to bleed off. If you pull your fuel pump assembly out of the tank. There is an acummulator built into the main assembly. It has a large round metal cap with three tangs to secure it when tightened down. It uses a large o-ring to seal that portion. And both of the two we had, were deformed. The cap came partial detatched, and the large o-ring gets sort of sucked out and loses it's ability to hold pressure. You can either buy a new main sender unit. Or if possible you can twist the cap off, and reinstall it, if the o-ring is not damaged, and the securing tabs can be bent back in a way that it will stay secured. This may not be the problem, but it is fairly easy and a quick thing to check in about 15 minutes or less. And something that may get over looked by a shop that may just think the fuel pump is failing. Which does happen as well. Good luck.

I am looking for a Subaru tech, other than the dealer, to refer to a customer of mine that is now living in that area. Would you mind telling me who you found, and would you reccommend the shop. Thanks Anton

I have a 87 RX coupe I'll be putting up for sale pretty soon if you have any interest. It is a parts car. And pretty rough inside. It has no running gears in it. But a lot of good stuff still there. couple of ea82 turbo blocks and heads, ea82 spi heads, mpi intakes x2, and more. Body kit is intact.

I don't know which motor you have in there. But if it's a single port, EA82 series. A lot of times the purge control valve on passenger side head sticks in open position. Causeing a lean condition on those two cylinders. Allowing atmosheric air to suck in on that side.Take some needle nose and pinch it off where vaccume line hooks into intake on top. See if that effects it. Also very common are cracked heads between the valves. Almost every head you pull out of those engines, is cracked. Sometimes it wont effect runnabilty. But other times the crack may have led up to the valve seat. Causing leaking compression. Other times, it can crack to where, it causes overheating issues. Or could just be low idle miss, from weak valve spring. Valve not seating from carbon build up. Or just worn rings. If older EA81. Yeah could be a tight valve you could adjust. Otherwise check the obvious, wires,plugs, vaccume lines. Intake gaskets. Spray carb clean around and see if it idles up. Plug condition could give a good indication of the condition of the cylinders.

I knew that would get your attention. I have a 84 brat i want to lift. 3" and 4". Who has used what brands. And what one do you feel is the best for this vehicle. Price? Quality? and Reliability? Thanks for your input.

I work in a shop that specializes in subby's. That is the majority of what we do, is timing belts. The one thing we do is buy oem belts. We still have some motors that don't line up perfect. But I have had a lot of aftermarket that just don't seem to be as acurate as oem.

I am in search of a TPS right now for my RX Turbo. The contacts inside the tps wear out. And the main connector on top of the tps gets full of water and corodes the terminals. I drilled the rivets off of mine, and cleaned the contacts, it helped for a little while. But, the problem is the contacting plate inside gets worn out, and it breaks connection at certain points in the rotation of the throttle. It jerks when it loses connection on or off the throttle. And if you hold steady throttle at the worn spots, it will lean out your fuel and cause it jerk of starve upon acceleration depending how bad it is worn out. Doesn't mean this is your problem, could be numerous other things. But I have had three of these turbos all with the same issue. Good Luck. And if you find one that matches my two connector 87 Rx Turbo, let me know. Good Luck

Who can tell me how to program a 2nd remote to a 00 Ob wgn. For what i have read. You unlock all doors, foot on brake, turn key on to off roughly 10 times until horn honks. Then open and close drivers door. press button on new remote, and it should be done. Pull keey out and it should honk 3 times. I can't get horn to honk. And yes it does work. Any help would be much appreciated.:-\

Yeah burned fluid does not mean the tranny is bad. It could have just been over worked or old. And it wasn't burned , just old and brown. Any way I thought clutches as well. But i have driven lots of subbys with bad clutch packs. And this one seems to be working fine. No binding. that i can tell. It did throw me off however that the fuse got the light to shut off the first time. Do you know if this year model, still locks the plates in to 50-50 split when in first gear. And also on side note. Supposedly the tranny shop has the proper scanner for pulling codes off the tcu. I have and obdII scanner, and know that you cant scan trans with it.

Who has the knowledge.? I have an 01 OB wgn with an AT temp light that comes on and flashes continually after driveing for awhile. I had it scanned and there are no codes present. It flashes with no apparent rythym. Once you shut the car off and sit for awhile it is off after the restart. The fluid is level, not burned and doesn't seem hot. Plus this is average driving with no excessive load. I did just change the burned fluid out and the light was on after. But it was on when i would first start it up after being cold. I put FWD fuse in for a bit and got it to shut off. But still comes on after driving for awhile. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

One clarification. the dual over head cam 2.5s from up until they swapped to the SOC. then you just have some occasional HGasket issues sometimes.

Well as far as the 90 and 91 (correct me if i'm wrong) They had issues with # 4 cylinder wall. I've seen them run 250 plus k miles. But if you get bubbles in your cooling system after service of some sort. then you have issues. They machined the cylinder wall to thin. In the water jacket on number 4, against the back side of the cylinder wall. They had to recess it all the way down to make room to get one of the block bolts in. If you get air bubbles, well kiss that block goodbye. not always, but was an issue. On the contrary, i have a 91 220k almost ready to drop in my 84 brat. I still have faith. But there were issues. The 92 thru 94 were bullet proof in esscence. Always strong runners. As far as the 2.5s go. Not one of my favorites. You are asking for a burnt #4 exhaust valve occasionally later on in life. Or occasionally rod knocks or exessive piston slap. Not to mention the expensive valve cover fix and pain in the rump roast spark plug replacement. Still easier to work on than a lot of cars out there. i have a 99 OB with 119k and rod knock. Just had a 96 OB with 220 on it with Burnt ex valve yesterday. They can run good and last long, or the other. The 2.2 though is by far the better, even considering the power difference. We do 2.5 to 2.2 conversions all the time in a lot of these OB. good luck though.:-\

i checked harmonic balancer, it seems straight. The rubber fill is all intact. Maybe I can double check the flex plate. thanks for the responses.

Ok so here is the question. I have 96 out back automatic wag., with a high rpm vibration. Vibrates in neutral and worse under load,say between 2500 and 4500 rev... It is definitely rev related. Not speed or drivetrain related. I coasted in neutral and is goes away. Unless torque converter,flex plate,etc. we did have a few flex plate bolts a little loose. and they are miss matched heads on the bolts. But could that be enough of a weight issue to cause this. seems unlikely to me. Next issue. Had a new mechanic perform timing belt (campaign) etc, work done on front of motor. I am not sure if it had vibration prior to work done. I do know that i had him tear it down to inspect myself. He had crank on wrong mark, 3 teeth off. yeah the round mark on face of pully not the line mark on crank sensor pick up tooth. so at this point hoping valves aren't bent! At this point unsupervised by me again, he starts it up with the drivers intake 180deg out. . i get it timed up, but i don't know if he rotated one of the other cams too much during install, not to mention the other times it was out of time. Motor sounds fairly normal, no excess piston slap. No knocking. Fairly normal valve train noises. But that vibration is bad. Exhaust notes are normal , no miss fires. I have not checked compression but it cranks even though. Could bent valves make it vibrate like that? by the way it has 170k on it. yeah and no burned exhaust valves, one of the lucky ones. or unlucky. Help

ok so we have the starter wire from the ecu (red/yellow stripe) going to start postion wire on car, a black with white stripe. and we have the ignition wire from main relay (green) going to on 12v+ position (black ) wire on car. both these are spliced in right at ignition connector at column. do i have these incorrect?

the post above was supposed to be uner pink socks post but it would not submit so i had to join you guys. glad to be here. again thanks for all the good info.

ok quick recap. test mode connectors have never been hooked up, so we are good there. the fuel pump comes on for just one quick priming when ignition is on, normal there. i ll make sure the fuel lines are hooked up correct, so not to worried about that. the vehicle speed sensor should only matter for cruise control or auto trans shiftiing, (right).? So no need to bother with that. I know the nuetral safety switch is only to disable starter. Are you sure it does not need ground or power in order to give ignition system, i.e. engine controls some signal. Assuming the new wiring harness is correct, ignition circut wire from ecu to 12v+ ,i wired into switched main ignition wire. and the one labeled as starter switch i spliced in to the start postion 12v+ on ignition switch. do you know what color those wires. i am not at home or i would tell you what colors they are, and if it is right. If i had those switched around could that be causeing it.? I know my main fuse is good or i would not have power to main and fuel relay. again i m not where i can check power to both yellows, and yellow/red right now. i do remember that main relay has power at both yellows. and i do remember that only one yellow on fuel relay has power. And remember donor car ran good. I just think that i have those two ecu wires for ignition reversed. what do you guys think. I will check to see if any other engine controls have power, at least to isolate that i dont have a freak coil go out on me. Thing is, when i turn key on and off i know the fuel relay works and the main relay clicks on also. So would they do that if i had the same two wires hooked up backwords? i have to have something hooked up wrong. but where.? Thanks for your guys input. it is greatly appreciated.: