markjw

I had a similar problem, I ran a separate ground wire from the body of the wiper motor to the firewall. Fixed!

Don't mess with the rear main seal unless it's leaking. Also, the past several 80's/90's era subaru engines I've resealed, I've made it a point to replace valve stem seals. I was getting away without doing it for alot of yrs, the engines are just getting too old and if it's not done, you'll risk ending up with a oil burner after all your hard work.

An easy way to check, set your hand brake hard, put your tranny in first gear and let the clutch out. If you get that far without the car stalling, get out and see which axle nut is spinning. That'd be the bad hub.

I had a hard time following what exactly is going on with your car but make certain that the splines in one of your front hubs isn't stripped out allowing a front axle to turn without delivering power.

In the end, I disconnected the electrical connections to the IACV. Aside from having to depress the accelerator a little on cold start up, it's running near perfect now. The idle is sweet (after warm-up) but of course it's throwing a CEL code. I can live with it until I sort thru why following the recommended advice on the board here isn't working out too well for me

I've never worried too much about the red seal. If it's handy and in good condition, I'll reinstall it. If it's not, I slap the flywheel on without it. Seems to not be too critical. I use red or blue loctite on the flywheel bolts.

If the pointer is pointing at the middle hash mark, then the hole in the face of the driver side cam gear should be at the 12 o'clock position when you install the driver side belt. Then rotate the engine over until the hole in the face of the driver side cam is at the 6 o'clock position and the pointer is again at the middle hash mark. Now move to the passenger side cam, position it at the 12 o'clock position and install that belt. When you drop in the distributor, the rotor usually points somewhere towards the back edge of the brake master cylinder for #1 dizzy pole.

Don't mess with the "idle set screw" on the throttle body. That's not what it is. And adjusting it from its factor setting will only make your problems worse. Are you sure you've set up the timing belts correctly?

I've also seen the weird casting holes in the head. Nice ride, btw.

I had that surging at cruising speed once, took forever to track it down. In the end, the TPS wasn't getting good ground into the ecu. I simply ran a new ground wire from the TPS to its pin at the ecu, it ran perfect after that. Sorry, I can't remember which one of the four TPS wires is the ground. Easy to determine, thou.

So, I've followed some of the advice of this thread and managed to get the idle somewhat under control. You can leave the fat wires connected, but you have to cut the inhibitor switch wire on the ecu harness. At least then the ecu functions normally. Previously, I left the fat wires connected with the inhibitor switch wire still connected to the ecu, that was causing wild idle fluctuations. At this point I think the idle isn't perfect like it should be, but the car is drivable and throwing no codes. If anyone has any ideas for me, please share. Thanks!

One thing is for certain, at least on my car, jumpering the two fat wires together at the shifter console is a Bad Idea. I've had to remove the jumper after startup or the ecu freaks out when I start driving.

This is what I wayou s looking for!!! Thank you so much, I'll give this a try in the AM and post back with confirmation. Now that I take a second look at the wiring diagram.. I do see that pins 32, 1, 46, and 13 are designated for AT. I feel dumb that I did not see these before. I'm wondering if ever sorted out your erratic idle after you did the swap. I'm having the same dilemma. Also, did you ever look into pins 1,13 and 46.

Pumpkins!

I'd look harder at the bleeding/air in the line. Nothing else makes much sense. I had a Outback that just wouldn't burp or bleed or whatever after installing a new pump. I gave up on it,after a couple days of driving, it fixed itself. I think there was a big air bubble in the rack that finally worked itself out.

It's been a couple months and several hundred miles and the freeze plug is holding fine. I used red loctite around the edge and was able to tap it in without removing anything except the cam tower. Thanks for the help!

Well, I like the loctite idea. Which I believe is also a anaerobic sealant. I'll try that. Thanks!

I recently had a freshly resealed ea82 engine blow one of the three freeze plugs out of the passenger side head. The engine/wagon sat for about 7 yrs in central Oregon with blown head gaskets and the radiator still full of green coolant. After resealing the engine at a buddy's house, also in central Oregon, I made it about 30 miles on my way back to Olympia before the plug let go. I had it towed the rest of the way home, finally got a few plugs from the dealer and now I intend to pull the cam tower and replace the missing plug and the other two remaining plugs. I've done many successful reseals on EA engins, but I've never messed with these freeze plugs and I have never before had one let go. My question is this. Should I use a little silicone around the sealing surface of the plugs or pound them in dry? Also, any other advice or insight on installing them much appreciated.

Yesh. I've got two them.

I scored a NOS decal kit of eBay originally for a 70's era sedan or coupe. Stuck um on my girlfriend's wagon.

Pretty old thread here but I wanted to update. That 5speed I added the Rislone to also suffered bearing failure (many many months ago). Although the synchros cleaned up and started working better, I can't shake the feeling that the Rislone was the cause of that. I'm having synchro issues again with a different 5speed, this time I'm going to use ATF instead.

Ok. Well it probably isn't a stripped hub. You should probably look closer at your shifter linkage. If it's stalling in neutral position under these conditions, something is up with the linkage/internally maybe. I guess it could still be your clutch. I haven't had any weird clutch failure other than the normal slipping.

Stripped hubs and loose axle nuts cause multiple odd problems. Set your ebrake hard. Start your car, put it in first gear and let the clutch out. Now, if you've gotten this far and your engine is still running, get out and go look at your axle nuts. If they spinning, you have a stripped hub or really loose axle nut.

Possibly stripped out front hub splines?

3 short. 6 long. Maybe someone can confirm that. I've always reused ea82 head bolts. I've never had a problem with it.