markjw

1991 Legacy AWD 5 speed wagon. If I ignore this Knock Sensor CEL code (22) for a couple weeks, will I regret it later? It showed up a couple days ago. Car runs perfect. I suddenly have to split for work in the AM, and I don't have time to fix it. But, I'm leaving my legacy here, at home, and my wife will probably drive it around a little as long as that won't hurt anything. If driving it around is a bad thing, then she won't drive it at all. What do you guys think?

I had the EXACT same symptoms on my '91 legacy. It haunted me for a few months. No code's showing either. Searched and searched for a vac leak, cleaned this cleaned that. No luck. After a few failed attempts at deciphering ohm resistance in a few sensors, I just replaced everything. I started with the IACV. That didn't do squat. In the end, it was the Throttle Position Sensor. I switched it out with a JY sensor, it runs perfect now.

Hmmm. That Jeep has four doors?

I don't think it's anything to worry about. Every engine I have pulled apart has a fair amount of build up on top of the piston's. The craters your seeing is most likely carbon build up. I bet if you had the head off, you could scrape the stuff off. If you see one in there that looks brand new, then you should be worried.

76K! :eek: Nice Score... Welcome and, I'd love to see some other pic's when you get around to it. How come it sat for so long?

The seals are directional...Did you look for the little arrows on them that indicate which seal goes on which side?

Thanks for the guidance, guys...This short box, standard cab mini truck is about as impractical vehicle as any I have ever owned, but it's a cheap and interesting diversion from the subi's I have been wrenching on, non-stop, for the past several yrs. I'll post up some pic's when I get it looking good.

I'm messing around with a '89 Dakota I picked up a couple months ago. I bought it knowing it was overheating. It smokes on startup, too. Anyway, I bought this head from JC Enterprises (ebay) , and I'm about ready to install. I have never installed a mail order head before. This one is complete, and advertised as "ready to install".... My question is, should I re-torque the cam bearing caps? What about assembly lube? It looks kinda dry. Anything else I need to do to this head before install? The job is straight forward, as far as the install, and, I'm doing all the other stuff, such as timing kit, new water pump, other normal stuff. I just don't want to miss something. Any thoughts?

It's hard to tell. Need more info like, is it constant, does it increase in sound when you turn, that sorta thing. But one thing you can do, is check to make sure the large castle nut on the end of the cv shaft is tight. Requires 150 ft lbs, I think. 36mm nut.

Yup..That's the fuel pump. If you look up under there, just forward of the rear passenger wheel, you'll see a tray. The pump and a fuel filter I believe is mounted on it. The humming is no big deal. But, you should change the fuel filter.

It looks Great! I love the two tone or, is that camo graphics on the top? Hmm. Maybe is just a reflection of the trees above. DId you ever figure out what those two extra bolts that came with our lifts are for?

Congrats! I wouldn't waste my time doing a compression test. Unless you just wanna know what it might be. If the engine is running fine, there is really no good reason. Besides, doing one correctly is a whole new discussion and debate.

Well,hopefully the excess oil gets forced past the rings and free's them up. At least that's the idea of it. I didn't dream this up. I read about it on the internet, so, it must be true. I have done it successfully at least twice, maybe three times. If I ever mess up an engine doing it, I'll probably stop. But, I have no idea of a better way of freeing up frozen rings. BTW..Sorry for the thread hi-jack.

How big of a sticker can you make? Can you make one 4' long, 8" tall? Is the material strong enough to be placed on the outside of a vehicle?

The combustion chamber volume on a EJ22 is 41cc. Just under 1.5 oz. So, really, only about a half oz of oil needs to find somewhere to go, at the top of the compression stroke. On a cyl. that is showing low or no compression,it's not an issue. Besides, if you know a better way of breaking free frozen rings, short of cracking the block open, I'd love to hear it.

The "sticky ring" comment from above is a Real possibility. I have run into it a few times with cars that sat for far less time than 7 yrs. Of coure,a compression test will give a indication of this problem. If you do happen to do a compression test,and a couple cyl or more come up very low,or zero,don't panic. Pour in a couple ounces of Marvel oil into the cyl by way of the spark plug hole, install spark plugs, and crank for as long as you dare. Maybe do this a couple times. If you can get the engine to fire,or maybe even run, the situation will clear it self up pretty quick. Side note: Sticky rings = compression rings sieze into the piston grooves and will not expand to allow compression. My own lame definition.

Dude...Research before you spend your money. All that info is here,written over and over again.

The off set isn't the problem with those wheels. It's the lug pattern. Re drilled wheels for the ea81 are a six lug, Chevy or Pathfinder pattern. I'm not sure how you could accuratly redrill those 5 lugs.

I just installed a OEM thermostat into a freshly resealed ea82 motor,recently. Upon initial start up,it did the same thing. Went way warm for a minute,dropped to normal and has been perfect since. I don't know,maybe they are sticky at first.

Spring side towards the engine. Opposite side,the cone side goes towards the radiator hose/radiator.

Thanks for the Comments,Guys. I used Flexy Flare for the wheel moldings. This is the first time I have used it. It came out Ok,but it's expensive for what you end up with ($70). I read about garden edging and Jetta flares and other options. Next time,I'll use something else. Something less expensive. Sorry Kanurys, I didn't measure the clearance under the diff and, I can't measeure right now as I'm at work for a couple more weeks. But, the tires are Wal-Terrains. Uniroyal Liberators 225/70R14. About 26.5" according to Miata.

Thanks,Noah....It's actually my wife's ride. It took a while,but she finally came around to seeing things Our way. I'm going to attempt my first ej swap on this wagon but, not for awhile. I'm tired of messing with it for now. I spent the majority of my time off from work wrenching on this thing (two weeks). Re sealed the motor, complete front end re build, brakes all the way around and the lift. And,the fender flares. And,I replaced all the heater boxes behind the dash with parts from that white Loyale at Tacoma PAP. (Yeah,that was me who gutted that poor thing). Mice destroyed the ducting on this car. It sat up in Shelton for a couple yrs before I got it. My favorite part of the wagon?, the Sweet Yakima racks, with keys...

I think it was GD who said to remove the bleeder zerk,not just loosen it, and the piston turns in much easier. I'm not sure what you mean by "are brakes important".

I went from boring, ea82 wagon to functioning wheeler in about six hrs. The install was absolutly problem free and It's Solid. And, I did it with no help. That in itself is a testament to the R&D that went into this lift. And for me,that's priceless. I slung a comealong in the rafters to hold the weight of the engine and tranny. It helped not to have floor jacks in the way underneath the rig. And,it seemed safe.It worked well. I used ratcheting straps in this fashion on both sides of the wagon in order to pull the sub-frame forward a couple inch's. I had to do that to line up the holes. The side to side was easy to line up as the engine was slung from the rafters. It just kinda swung back and forth with a easy push. You have to make this cut in the rear bump stop pads in order for the strut to stand up straight again after you drop the diff. Very simple thing. Other random pic's. Nothing too much here.Just bolt the stuff on. This is what I did to drop the rear of the shift linkage. I found this metal thing at the hardware store and cut a "Z" shaped piece off the end. Drilled two holes and bolted it in.. It pretty much just drops the back of the linkage down about 1-3/4". I built the exact steering linkage that Scott shows in his DVD. I'd show you a pic of it,but my camera died.