markjw

Yeah,Rockauto prices are pretty good,until you go to check out and the shipping is more expensive than the cost of your parts.

I placed my order thru the sjr site. I can paypal or use a cc or whatever is easiest and cheapest. Thanks.

I need a 4" ea82 kit.

I like $395....I can paypal today. I need a 4" shipped to Yelm.

Remember when I said I didn't replace the drivers side wheel bearings 'cause there was no play in the hub? That was bad thinking 'cause the bearings on that side were terrible. Doh. Anyway,I replaced the axle and bearings and seals on that side. Rolls smooth now. Thanks for the help.

I'm in...The sooner the better.Thanks.

I should avoid commenting in threads like this 'cause alot of times I find out what I do isn't "right"...But,I go with the "coat in fresh engine oil" method. For no other reason than it just makes sense.And,I usually have clean motor oil around. I'd definitely would Not use any kinda Hi Tack or any other sealent. I have used multi purpose grease before,too.That seems to work Ok.

Thanks for the replys...I'm tired of guessing what it may be. I'll replace the axles,drivers side first,see where that gets me.

I buy all the tune up stuff at the auto parts store. It's way cheaper and the parts work fine. Seems that the recommended spark plugs are standard NGK's. Maybe ask for a middle of the road set of plug wires but the cap and rotor is whatever is cheap.At least that's what I do. And my subi's run pretty good. Usually.

Any ideas? Mostly I'm wondering if anybody knows if a bad front axle will make this kind of vibration.

1991 Loyale 4WD 5 speed Wagon. Bone stock. I'm getting a vibration/noise out of my front end. I can only hear and feel it above 15mph. I can't even decipher if its more on the left or right.Neither can a couple other peaple who have been in the wagon with me. The vibration increases with the speed of the vehicle. It doesn't change at all when I push the clutch peddle to the floor. It also doesn't change when I shut off the engine and coast down the road. It's definitely coming from forward of the stick shifter. I have recently replaced the entire clutch pack. I replaced the passenger side wheel bearings as there was a little play in the wheel. Driver's side is solid.No play. Everything torque'd to spec. Also,I put new rotors and pads on both sides of the front. Both front wheels spin freely and quitely when in the air and the brake backing plates are not rubbing on the rotors. Here's the thing.I didn't hear or feel the noise until after the first 40 mile road trip I went on. About 30 miles into it is when the noise started. And,it started after I did all the front end work. The car is new to me.It sat a couple yrs before I recently bought it and got it running. Could this be a axle? There is no clicking around corners or any of the normal noises I associate with a bad axle. Just a consistent vibration and hum noise while driving. Almost sounds like a playing card in the spokes of a bicycle,but with much deeper sound.The axles look good.But they're condition is unknown to me.

Yup....I forgot the EJ flywheels are flat. I've never had a machine shop screw up a flat flywheel. I would certainly have a flat flywheel machined before I put a new clutch pack on it.

I'd just give it the scotch brite treatment. If I had a machine shop around here that I was certain knew how to surface a subaru flywheel,I would probably take it in. But,I've had two of them messed up,and slipped after installation,where as I have never had problems with just reusing the old flywheel.

It's been discussed on the board here several times. I think the consensus was, it's a bad idea for hi-way use. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102771&highlight=atv%2A+wheels

Bump..Somebody's gotta know something.

I seen one sell at auction last year,probably not as pristine as your talking about,but close,for $550. Honestly,I don't know if it ran well or not.But,interior and exterior were Very Nice. It was Red.

I read on here recently that you just have to find a suitable GL and switch out the side panels. I don't have any pics. But,I have two of the cargo covers. A dark grey one in like new condition and a blue one that works,but isn't that great. I'll trade both or one for ea82 4wd clutch stuff.

So is the oil light out now? Your original post doesn't say. It's been my experiece that if the oil isn't showing on the stick at all,it's quite a bit more than just a quart low. I think it's nothing to worrie about,except keep an eye on your oil level. I check mine all the time. I mean like every day sometimes and my legacy runs perfect. I still check it all the time.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say your engine was low on oil. Probably about a quart.

I think Rockauto is having a close out on some of their Subaru master cylinders. Maybe you can order one there.

I had to read it a few time's,but once I decided that "ignition switched signal" is a power source that goes hot with the key on,the rest made more sense. Of course,I still may be all wrong.

I'm out too. As usual...All the shows happen during the last half of the month. I go to work on the 15th of every month and stay at work till the last day of the month. I did,however,drive by Stevenson last year on the second day of WCSS 11 and sound a good blast from the fog horn.

I was on my way up to Shelton today to look at/buy a wagon when I spotted a cluster of Subaru's on the west side of 101,across from Steamboat Isl. exit. You have a lifted ea82 wagon w/some pugs on it.I'm thinking you must be a boardmember or,at least stop by here occasionally. I'd like to buy some parts off of that smashed,champagne colored legacy. If your selling,I'm interested. Thanks.

Yeah,I agree.7/8ths sounds really tight. I bet I barely go half a turn.