markjw

1990 Leg Wag 5 speed,bone stock. New to me a week ago. At idle,tranny out of gear,I hear a bad bearing noise. Now that I have the exhaust fixed,I believe I hear it while I'm in gear and accelerating,too. I have read several posts related to these symptoms,most say it's a input shaft bearing,but,at least a few say TO bearing. The bearing noise completly goes away when I push in the clutch pedal. Is there a "final word" on which bearing it most likely is,considering these symptoms? Also,other than the bearing noise,the clutch functions as it should.

Ok...I should have just asked two days ago where to find the harness plug that took the electrical current to the rear. I pulled the Passenger side kick panel,pulled apart all the connectors,and with a test light I found the wires that were leading aft for the blinkers.The two I was looking for were (red/white for the Pass. green/black for the Drivers side). They were hot intermittently, in sync with the noise of the flasher. I plug that connector back together,move to the rear and unplug the connector going into that black box I replaced in the driver's side lens. I find intermittent current there as well. I friggin plug the harness back in,and I hear the flasher slow down to normal speed and the blinkers start working. The taillights are a normal brightness now,too. So,obviously the connector under the kick panel wasn't delivering current until I unpluged it and plugged it back in. Thanks for the help,GD...

I did put the volt meter to the fuse socket in the fuse block,the one labled "back/turn" It show's just under 12v...Another fuse socket in the block is labled "tail/clearance"..That one shows 10.4V...So,I have power to the symtems,but the power isn't reaching the lights in the rear... I'll pull the Pass. side kick panel and take a look at those connectors. Thanks..

1990 Legacy Wagon,AWD 5-Speed,180K..Bone Stock. This wagon is new to me.It did drive home just fine,but it has some electrical issues.I've been trying to fix some of them just to make it road legal. Here's a list of whats wrong in order of importance to me. Rear turn signals do not work....Either side. The fronts work,but flash really fast.When I turn on the hazard button,still,only the front blinkers flash,but at the normal rate. I have checked ALL the fuses a couple dozen times.Not just visually,but I have checked continuity as well. Of course,I have switched out the bulbs with new ones,too.Still no good.The sockets in the rear look really clean with no corrosion. I have replaced: -Illumi Con Unit. -The related black box next to it. I belive this is the "Flasher". -The little black box in the rear right tailight harness.The one that's screwed to the inside of the lens. I have checked the grounds,the ones I can find.Pulled um,cleaned um,still nothing. Also,in case someone might see a relation,the other electrical problems I am having are: -Taillights are Very dim.Headlights work good. High beams work too. -No reverse lights.None... -When I turn on the "virgin switch",only the front marker lights come on.Nothing in the rear. -Auto seatbelts are DOA. -The "door ajar" lights have a mind of their own. -fuel guage doesn't work Basically,it's a friggin nightmare situation,but I just really wanna work out the blinker and taillight/reverse problems for now.I have been reading the board for two days,and I have some ideas for the other electrical problems,and I'll get around to those,but the blinkers are what's keeping me from driving this wagon. Here's what I'm thinking.I think I wanna replace the fuse block.Maybe the hazard switch too. Anybody have any ideas for me? BTW: The only lights that Really work in the rear,is the brake lights.The center brake light works fine too. And,like I said,the taillights come on,but they are dim. And that's it.

Fix the engine you have.Don't be lured into thinking different is better. It is not. Your original engine,repaired properly,and maintained afterwards,is Way better.

I have read several times on the board here,that the symptoms you are describing,heating up on the freeway but not around town or at idle,usually indicates a plugged radiator. I do know that a "flush" with a garden hose will not unplug a radiator that is clogged with mineral deposits.So,even thou you have flushed your radiator,it may still be the problem. Also,make sure you install a OEM thermostat. There is No substitute.

Nothing odd about the way the crank bolt comes off.Counterclockwise will loosen it.

If your strut is not loose,then I'd suspect a ball joint first.Up and down clunks are usually ball joints where as clunks or popping noises while turning,are tie rods.

Sounds like the o2 sensor.Maybe.That's what I'd look at.

Yeah,that's my concern about this kit.Those really look like ea82 seals.

I'm thinking about ordering this kit for my 1990 leg wagon.They are calling this a Master Timing Belt kit. It comes with alot of gaskets and seals and stuff.But,I'm wondering about the Oil Pump Reseal part of this kit. The one in the pic looks like a ea82 oil pump reseal kit. My question is,do the ej22 oil pumps and ea82 oil pumps require the same/similar reseal kits? I've never resealed a ej oil pump. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1996-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-Master-Timing-Belt-Kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563d8a263dQQitemZ370399651389QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The system is really simple.There is no relay,just a Thermo Switch on the radiator.It's a two wire,screw in type switch that is in one of the bungs on the passenger side radiator tank. When the coolant reached a certain temp,the switch closes and the fan comes on. If your fan isn't working,aside from checking the wire condition and the grounds,take a look at that switch. There is a test proceedure for the switch,I don't know what it is.

I've only seen one on the road....It was Red.

The engine runs quiet. It has since the rebuild. Before the rebuild,It ran quiet,but it had bad head gaskets. The problem is fixed now. It has good power and runs smooth at crusing speed. It could have been back pressure in the exhaust,or it could have been the o2 sensor. I installed a different y-pipe with a new o2 sensor. Runs like a top. Thanks for the help..

1994 Loyale,5sp 4wd wagon.Bone Stock. 1-135 3-140 2-155 4-135 The car isn't running right. I completly resealed the motor and installed a new timing kit. I bought it condition unknown so,I don't know how it ran before I did all the work. I have gone over the timing several times.Both the belt timing and the dizzy timing. It's right.I know it is. I had the heads shaved and pressure tested,too.New valve stem seals. New plugs (NGK) Wires Cap & Rotor Air filter Fuel Filter Fuel Pump is good,at least it works fine on my other loyale. You get the idea. Pretty much everything that should be replaced,I replaced. It's gotta be a sensor.I checked the codes and the only thing going on with the green ones connected is the repeated 5 quick flashes over and over.I guess that means notheing is wrong. With the white ones connected,I get EGR solenoid. And that's it. It starts fine,idles nice and smooth.Seems to have good power on the 1-2 up shift,but starts to fall on it's face from the 2-3 and up. It feels like it's sputtering and missing at cruising speed.Not much,but a noticable amount.Lack of power,too It just doesn't run very well at cruising speed. Here's my questions... What do you think about the comp. numbers? Could that be a factor? Also,could the 02 senser be bad,or some other sensor,and not throw a code? Any ideas?

I think they call that a Touring Wagon...They'r kinda rare. That's all I know.

Hey man,I'm glad you caught that before bad things happend. In circumstances where I am between two castle nut notch's,I always go to the next tightest one..I guess what I'm saying is,for me,the torque value is secondary. I make sure that mofo is tight.

A loose castle nut can be the sourse of All the symptoms you described and a lot more. Tighten it to 150 ft. lbs. Install the cotter key and check the other side. That should be a permenent fix,unless you drove around that way for quite a while. Other than your wheel falling off,a loose castle nut will let the splines on the axle chew away the splines within the hub.

I think it's a Great looking wagon. And,as far as it being a turbo,so what.When they are this clean,none of that stuff matters anymore.

Get some new gaskets. The cork ones work well for me. I think some people coat the new gaskets with some kind of sealent.I never have.I put them on dry. There is no torque value for ea81 valve covers.Just tighten the bolts until they are tight.Don't over do it,of course.

There's a d/r 5 speed in a brown ea82 wagon at the Tacoma PAP.The car is pretty fresh.Hasn't been there long. Also,there is a 2wd hatch at the Tacoma yard..I can't say for sure about the bumpers.Maybe they will work for you.Maybe they are gone. Also,there's a 4wd hatch at the Tumwater PAP.It has a d/r 4 speed in it.

Unless I knew for certain the engine was Way overheated,and was kept that way for a lenght of time,I wouldn't do a thing to the block except to clean the head gasket sealing surface. It's not worth the trouble to split the block when good ones can be had for cheap or free. I spend all my time on the heads,resealing the oil pump,front and back main seal and timing components. I generally do take the heads to a machine shop to be shaved and washed. Mostly because they come back clean and pretty much ready to bolt on.