markjw

Welcome! And,congratulations on your subi. I have had hit or miss luck with the axles from places like Schucks and Autozone. The benifit to places like that is you can have your axle in,well,in my case,about 10 minutes. I have both of those stores just down the street from me. The down side is you may have to re do the job a few times to get a good set. If I had to choose between Schuck's and Autozone,I'd go with Autozone as they'r axles are New and the one's Schucks is selling are remans. If your not in a hurry and want to Maybe just do the job once,then you'd be doing yourself a favor by ordering a set from MWE. I have never bought a axle from them,but it seems the general consensus on the board here that they have the best axles.Aside form OEM,of course. I have bought several EMPI axles and have had good luck with them. Others have not. They are a little harder to find but you may have a supplier locally depending on how big your town is,but you may also have to order them as well. Before you buy new axles,be sure your axle nuts are good and tight.If they are not,you can get all kinds of bad noises from the front end. They need about 150 lbs of torque on them. Also,unless you know the maintenance history of your wagon,you may want to replace all of your timing belt components. When you do,leave all of the timing belt covers off. They just make maintaining the front of your engine a huge hasstle. Ditch um.Seriously. MWE Axles, Just call them. (303) 522-8070 EMPI axle part # 80-5504 Schucks # 607009 Autozone # 7315

Wow! Now that's a classy looking car. A real head turner.

We started the process in park,of course. But,about 30 seconds into the pumping,I had my wife run the tranny through the gears.Pausing at each one for just a few seconds,and then back into park. The shifting of the gears had no effect on the stream of fluid being displaced. This was my brothers idea. Whether it is good or bad or has no effect,that's what we did. I've put about 4k miles on this car since the fluid change and the thing is running perfect.

The lifters on the ea82 are Non-Adjustable. The remedy's that Miles is suggesting are the best ways to get rid of the tick.

You can buy this specially made O2 sensor socket at any parts store.About 7 bucks. Or,just use a wrench.

The counter guy said "all NAPA's"

There is a XT at Tacoma PAP.... It's been there awhile. 2416 112th St. S.Lakewood, WA 98499 Phone: 253-588-1775

I just wanted to share this. I stopped by NAPA today and bought there NAPA Gold oil filter for my '91 Legacy.(made by WIX) I usually pay over $8 for them. Today,and,for the rest of this month,they are on sale for just over $4.. Get some!

You have prolly already thought of this,but if you can get a whole parts cars with the drivetrain you want,you'd be miles ahead. Much better than running back and forth to the wrecking yard.

Yeah man...A plug wire set for that mofo is $150 ...Your old Outback,twenty five bucks. You'll be back.

Fix the engine you already have. Trust me on this. If the short block is in Ok shape,it's way cheaper in the long run and your already familiar with your current engine. Once you get the headgaskets taken care of,you'll be Real familiar with your current engine.

I bought a inner and outer bearing plus both seals off ebay recently for about $20.Package deal. So,I wouldn't say it's too good to be true.

Search "Idle air control valve"...Look for the cleaning and lube proceedure. That may be your problem.

Man,change the Sparks Plugs First thing. They short out sometimes. The bad one May look brand new. Meanwhile,your spending money replacing everything else.

Yes..Snug is good. Maybe just a pinch more. Exposed threads is normal as it's a pipe thread affair. Don't overtighten. You could crack the manifold.

I make sure I have a place for everything. So,when clean up time comes,you can stay focused on clean up rather than walking around looking for places to stash stuff. Also,with having a specific place for every little thing,I can find exactly what I need really quick. Thats the best advice I can give for stay organized. On a job like a HG or something really involved,I'll stop and clean up/put everything away,then start fresh. I'll do that in the middle of the job,usually. That simple thing,I feel,helps me do quality work.

No. It was not mounted at all. Just sitting there.

That's not just a crank pulley. That's a harmonic balancer. I think a chain/strap wrench to hold the HB while trying to remove the crank bolt is a bad idea.Especially in your case where you have a balancer and not just a simple pulley. Also,once you turn the outside against the inside of the balancer,it's pretty much done. Everybody has a trick way of gettin the crank bolt free. All the one's I know have already been discussed in the forum,here.

Maybe you have already seen these. These are the CL ad photo's from that guy in Yakima. Summer of '07. I think. I'm surprised I still have them

Here's a link that discusses the wheels in detail. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35534&highlight=allied+wheels+manufacture

^^^^ Posting at the same time. I read that the whole mess will bolt together,and you think everything is Ok,but,because the TC isn't seated into the pump the correct way,you'll cook your tranny in short order.

I'm pretty sure your suppose to seat the TC into the trans and attach the engine w/flexplate only, to the TC After you mate the two. And,you have to make Really certain the TC seats into the trans pump before you install the engine and flexplate. You should search the proceedure or wait for someone who knows the process. Seems I read on here if it's not done just right,bad stuff will happen.

The wheels are Allied Armament. They are or were a weapons manufacture based in St. Helen's,Or. That car was called a "test mule" at one time by one of our board members. Test Mule meaning that when Allied got into building custom parts for the Subaru's,they used that very rig to do the Research & Design. There is somewhere on the interweb,video of that car being launched off jumps,in a manner that you'd think the guys were trying to Destroy the car. When I looked it over three yrs ago,the front lift blocks were half tore away from their mounting points,the steering column had about 6" of up and down travel to it,from all the hard landing's,and,when I drove it down the road,it was pointing toward the ditch,but traveling straight. The asking price was about $1200...I was gonna buy it. But,the sellers behaviour...anyways. It had a couple grand worth of parts on it when I looked at it. The wheels were brand new 27" Boggers and there were five of them.All mounted on New AA wheels. It had Really nice off-road bumpers on it front and back and the rear bumper had a swing style tire carrier on it. All very well made. To top it off,it came with a new yakima roof basket,towers and cross bars. Search Allied Armament on google. Maybe they still have a site up. You might poke around in Vendor For Sale forums on the board here. A guy who had a hand in building that wagon is named Albie. He's running a fab shop down around Longview somewhere. BTW...Them wheels are not hi-way legal.

Hey! I know that wagon...Definitely one of AA's wagons. I actually went to Yakima to buy that thing about 3 yrs ago.The timing belt broke on the test drive and the guy who owned it at the time started freaking out on me about it. So,I walked. It had a Ton of good parts on it at the time.Looks like most are still there.

If it's a SOHC,and you do it in the car,I'd advise having someone there to help you Install the heads. I recently installed the heads on my '91 Legacy Wagon,and the lower head bolts need to be in place,in the head,before you lower the head down in between the block and the frame rail. Otherwise,there is No room to inset the head bolts. So,when you do the install,the head bolts want to run forward preventing you from getting the head in place.The threaded end of the bolts end up in the cyl. and generally getting in the way risking the integrity of the job. You need someone there to manage them bolts while you do the grunt work. Trust me on this.