markjw

Yeah,and quit running around on dry pavement with the 4wd engaged...Bad stuff will happen.

Yeah,I thought you said something about needing turbo one's....Do you know slideshow86? He has the hookup on these empi axles,kinda like GD. He gets um cheap and local from some shop in Tacoma. If you don't know him,I can call him and get the name of the shop for you. But,whenever I need some,I go thru him.

I've bought a dozen ea axles and I can honestly say the EMPI's have so far been the best. For me,anyway. In fact,I actually have a brand new one in the box sitting on the shelf out here in Yelm...It's a non-turbo one. I don't currently have a ea82 car to put it into. Maybe I should sell it to a local board member.

That's a Great write up...Is that yours,Bob? I'm amazed at the different torque values I see for the ej22 crank bolt. Now I have seen everything from the 60's clear up to 150 ft. lbs.

Timing belt.....See if the rotor under the dizzy cap turns while you crank the engine. If it doesn't,then the drivers side belt let go.

I've fought with them for twenty minutes with no luck. Walked away,came back and they just fell into place. What ever you do,don't resort to the "draw them together" with the bolts method. Bad stuff can happen.

Hopefully you have it in place by now....The last ea82 engine I installed,the clutch inspection cover was bent in a manner that it was getting in the way of a proper engine/trans fit. It's thin metal and can bend easily.If one is on your new engine,take it off till you have the engine installed.

Personallty,I'd look around for a uber-cream puff '93 or '94 Legacy Wagon. 5mt of course. Maybe one with 60-70k miles,garage kept with all the maintainence records. A flawless one,for sure. I'd drive it for twenty years and see if I could get a half million miles out of it. Even if you had to have such a car shipped or went and picked it up yourself, you could still prolly put 3-4 grand in the bank.

If it's none of that,then look at the choke system. If it's a carb engine,of course.

If I was sending a car to scrap and wanted the engine and tranny out of it,the First thing I would do is remove the core support. Without even thinking about it.

I've been able to get motors that have been starved for oil to run pretty good again without any work at all to the engine. Usually they will smoke a bit,but occasionally they won't be completly ruined. Of course,that knocking thing ain't good,either. Maybe the knocking is the oil pump? And not a main bearing? Maybe? I'm not trying to give you some false hope,but If it were me,I'd be trying to get the motor to run and I'd find out exactly what the knocking is. There is certainly more than one motor running around that had previously been run dry of oil.

Yeah,that motor is more than likely damaged,but have you been able to drive the car around with the correct amount of lube oil in the engine? Do you have a oil pressure guage? What's it telling you?

Wow..All the sudden a broken timing belt and bent valve stems would have been Good news.

The "U-Pull-it" here charges $150 for any long block in the yard.Un tested,no warranty. The other yard I go to sells long blocks,too. Tested,to some degree,already pulled,30 day warranty. $350 and up.

Sawsall the core support out of the way,pull them together.

Couldn't have been more than 3 minutes,total from the time we started the car till our bucket had 2 gallons of old fluid in it. As far as the actual pressure,I can only say that out of a 3/8" I/D hose,it was squirting a stream about two feet out if held level like a garden hose. Very manageable.

I know lots of folks use the pump method in one form or another. I read a ton of threads about tranny fluid drain and fill. In fact,I got the idea to use the tranny pump here,on the board. But,there is little written about what actually happens when you turn the engine on. My first attempt at simply sucking the new fluid into the transmission with an extended,lower return hose,came from the board,here.But,this doesn't work. There is no "suction" in the lower hose. Only pressure in the top hose. I have no idea why the transition from pumping old fluid to pumping fresh fluid was interupted with air sputtering,but,it didn't seem like a problem. It was obviously a indicator that it was time to stop the engine and finish off the fill with all the hoses connected properly to the radiator. And,there was nearly 8 qts. of old fluid in the catch container when the sputtering started. I'm wondering why the drain,fill,drive around,drain,fill,drive around,drain fill method is the recommended process when this way seems so easy and thorough.

And,drive around and refill and drive around and refill and so on and so on. No thanks. In the end,your tranny still has old fluid in it. This worked slick. When the flow of old fluid started to sputter air,the level in the catch container was just below the 2 gal. mark. And,we had managed to add about a gallon and a half of fresh fluid at that point. The tranny,I believe,never had a dangerously low amount of fluid in it. From start to finish with the business of pumping old fluid and adding new with the car running took no more than 3 minutes. Here's a pic of the stuff I used. The bucket I found was already calibrated in 1 ounce increments up to 3 gal. I just hi-lighted with a sharpie to see better. The plan was to make sure we didn't drain more than we were able to add. Easily done with a clearly marked catch container. If we were not able to keep up,we were gonna shut the car off. We never had to. I'm sure this has been done before,but I searched and searched the archives and couldn't find a thread that outlined the scarry part. Draining and adding at the same time. The hose is 3/8"..fits perfect. Also,the Subaru dealer quoted me $170 to flush the tranny. I managed to do this for about $45 in fluid and $6 in stuff. And,I know my tranny has new fluid in it and,nothing got messed up. Peace of mind is Priceless.

I changed the transmission fluid on my "new to me" 1991 Legacy wagon. AWD,auto. I just wanted to share a couple things here. I was at first gonna do the drain,fill,drain,fill method. But,I wanted to try something diffrent. So,I went and bought two 5 foot lenghts of clear,3/8" tubing. I attached one piece of hose to the botton nipple on the Radiator tranny fluid cooling tank and,I attached the other piece of hose,by way of a short piece of copper tube,to the return hose that I pulled off the lower nipple. The hose coming off the radiator nipple was pointed into a large catch container. The hose attached to the return line was dunked into a new, very clean 3 gal. bucket filled with 8 qts. of fresh tranny fluid. The idea was to start the car and let the old fluid pump out of the lower nipple on the cooling tank into the catch container,and the fresh fluid would be sucked into the tranny by the return line. Well,it didn't work. The old fluid pumped out fine,but the fresh fluid wasn't being sucked in.Not at all. So,apparently,the tranny pump only pushes fluid into the top of the cooling tank, down thru the tank and continues to push the fluid into the return line and back into the tranny. There is no suction at all. We realized this instantly,thanks to the clear tubing,and shut it down. So,at this point,we just poured the fresh fluid into the dip stick hole,thru a long,narrow funnel,all while running the engine and pumping the old fluid into the catch container. It worked very well. Here's the interesting part.When the old fluid was done pumping out,the hose started to sputter air instead of fluid. We let this go on for a few seconds,then the tranny fluid started pumping out again,and, it was now pumping the fresh fluid.So,we shut it down. We button'd all the hoses up,and ran the car for a few minutes,letting things settle out.In the end,we had to top off with another quart and a half to reach full/hot on the stick. To summarize,If I was to do this again,I'd simply attach one lenght of 3/8" clear tube to the lower nipple,point that at a catch container,and, while running the car,pour fresh fluid into the dipstick hole until the solid stream of old fluid sputterd air. Re attach the lower return line to the nipple and top it off the correct way. Simple.

I don't think the u joints are made to be replaced. Seems like your supposed to find another whole,good driveline.

I just went through alot of what your going through. My problem ended up being bad head gasket's. I replaced them both and now my car is running fine. The most troubling symptom I was having was bubbles in the coolant reservoir tank. I was having intermittent hot/cold air from the heater blower,I was having random temp gauge spikes, I was also finding the reservoir tank fill completely up with coolant after a drive. And,I was having the lower radiator hose ice cold compared to the upper hose after a 5 or 10 mile drive. The one thing that was always constant was the bubbles in the reservoir tank. I tried 3 or 4 thermostates and a few diffrent radiator caps. I also changed the water pump out and burped the cooling system several times. Nothing would make the bubbles stop. Until now,now that I have replaced the HG'd,there are no bubbles and the lower radiator hose is luke warm at running temp. From my research,I found that combustion gasses may collect on the engine side of the thermostat causing it not to open. Apparently,the top side/engine side of the thermostat needs to be immersed in hot coolant,void of air and gasses to function properly. Also,this collecting of gasses on the top of the thermostat was what was causing my heater blower to randomly go Ice cold. I would suggest you go back to the dealer where you had your work done and have them do the hydrocarbon or whatever test they may perform to determine the problem.

The weber on my old ea81 would freeze up on me this time of year. It'd run like crap until I pulled over,let it thaw for a few minutes and it'd run fine again. It seemed like it would do that in valleys where the air was damp. Foggy ares were worse. I could actually see the frost on the carb if I got out fast enough and pop the hood. I never fixed the problem,I just dealt with it. It really only happend if the weather conditions were just right. But,the temp air outside did Not have to be anywhere near freezing. Just a thought.

It all went well. My brother in law stopped by at the perfect time to help me get the heads into place. It woulda been a real hassle without him there to manipulate the head bolts and stuff while trying to get the heads on the block. If the frame rails were another quarter inch closer together,I dont think a guy could do this job without pulling the engine. It's a really tight fit. I've put bout 30 miles on it so far. I see no bubbles in the reservoir tank,and the heater blower isn't going cold anymore. But,the engine seems to run a little too hot,still. I don't have a real temp gauge,or a lazer heat gun,but the needle on the dash stays rock solid at a little less than half. It gets there quick,and doesn't move up or down until I turn the car off. I'm thinking about getting a new radiator,but I'm wondering what everybody else's temp guage reads under normal operationg temp? Also,I just have plain H2o in there right now.Maybe when I add the coolant,it'l run a little cooler. 1992 leg. ej22

On the power steering issue,make sure the belt isn't loose/slipping.