markjw

I'm not so much talking about the car as I am the recipient of the Gift car. I had a vehicle gifted to me and remember destictly the conversation with the DOL lady. She said I was fortunate as I had saved about $1400 in use/sales tax because of the Gift option. She also said it was the one and only time I'd ever be able to claim a vehicle as a gift. But,that was about eight years ago. It could be different now.

I'm going to bet it's a compression ring problem in the "zero" reading cylinder. I believe the compression ring is seized/rusted into it's groove and will not expand to fit the cylinder. I've run into this very problem twice. Both with cars that have sat for years. Here's what I did. I pulled the plug,added a couple three tablespoons of Marvel Mystery Oil and then put the plug back in. It's important to put the plug back in because the idea is to force the Mavel oil into and past the compression ring while cranking the engine. Sometimes you have to repeat the process,but it may work for you. Worth a try before you pull parts off the engine.

Maybe check to see if someone has messed with the "mystery screw" or whatever we call it. It looks like a idle adjustment screw on the passenger side of the throttle body. It has white paint on it from the factory 'cause your Not suppose to mess with it. If you shine a good flashlight on the screw,you should be able to tell if its been turned in or out by the condition of the paint. Before I knew any better I adjusted mine and my car ran like crap at about 2000-2400 rmp and also idle like crap. Surged alot,too. I could never get it to run right again. In the end,I replaced that section of the throttle body/butterfly valve with a good one from the wrecking yard that hadn't been adjusted. My Loyale runs as good as new now. Just a thought.

A lot of the older Legacy's that are coming on the market now for a good price are coming from Seattle. There is no escaping it. In a few years,we'll all be feeling the effects of it. Enjoy your rust free 20/30 yr old cars now, 'cause it's just a matter of time.

From what I've read on the board here,it's not an issue,really. More of an annoyance. I can't remember what was said that might cause it,thou. My Loyale does the same thing.

Yes..Place a Wanted ad in the Wanted section on the forum here. Or,live a little and replace the head gasket/ or gaskets yourself. The process is one of the most documented repairs on the USMB and can be done in a day or two with just a few tools. Search the subject.

You could find a good running motor of less than that price. What makes you think you need new heads? Because it won't start?

If you do jump it off of something,make sure you or no one else is in it,else we might be hearing about you on the 10 o'clock news. Like Junkie said,that thing is going to fold in half. It looks to be sagging on the ends as it sits.

There's a thread here somewhere that outlines how to do a 5speed swap on that very car. Or,maybe it was the coupe version of it.The car seriously needs a 5speed. And,a dual range would be nice. Honestly,I thought if you were going to have any trouble with the car on your way home,that it was going to be the 3at. Yeah,that 30w oil I got for free.I have a ton of it. I'm just looking to use it up. The oil and filter probably have about 20 miles on um. If that. When I found the car,it had No PCV system on it at all. And,it looked like it had been that way for awhile. The one that is on there now is the one that GD is getting tired of explaining how to do. And,the PCV valve is new. I guess we should have talked about some of this stuff before you left with the car.

Hmmm. I thought I fixed that. It worked for me several times around the yard here. When I first got the car,it wouldn't stay engaged at all. But,I found a thread on the Board here that explained how to disassemble the swithch and file a liitle brass pin so it was flat on the end. It worked. Well,at least it did. I engaged the 4wd the day before you came to get the car. So,it won't engage at all?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106308

I run 205/60/15's on Peugeot wheels. Bone stock,91' Loyale. Search the subject. A book of info is available about this very subject right here on the USMB.

No...I just went and looked. You can get to it from behind the alt. But,here's the thing. You have to either remove the Battery or Alt. to have enough room to pull the pipe.

Yeah,there is one 12mm bolt that holds the tube. Remove that and pull.

It's anybodys guess as to how long it will last. With the boot torn and the grease leaving the joint,it's certainly on it's way out. It could last another 3-4 thousand miles. It could let go the next time you drive your car. It will eventually seperate at the joint and it'l make a bit of a racket until you coast to a stop. But,your done driving until you remedy the situation. There is a recent thread about Duct Taping a boot to get a little more life out of the axle. At the very least,read the thread and follow some advice given there before you go out on a 600 mile drive. Here's the link. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106059

From what I have read on the board here,upgrading the coil is a complete waste of time and money. And, can actually lead to ignition trouble down the road. Best to stick with a stock one.

At the very least,along with all the plugs out,you need to have the throttle wide open. Otherwise,your engine can't suck air thru the intake which will give low readings. Ideally,you'll get the carb in the WOT position without letting fuel into the intake. When your cylinders are awash with fuel,you can get a false high reading.

There is a autobody supply store downtown Olympia. I think it's called Wesco. Anyway,they have some really good stuff down there. I believe its the 3M product. I used it for trim pieces on a boat years ago. It's still holding. The employee's are knowledgeable,too.

This proceedure worked great for me. Except,in the end,I timed my engine the way I always have. With #1 at TDC etc.etc. As for the timing belt cover backs,I removed mine because they seemed like they would just serve to catch and store debree. And,once the fronts are removed,they are not as rigid and I feared the belts might rub on them. The oil pump and water pump can be accesed with the backs on. As far as it being a 20 min. job with the covers removed,I'd be lucky to do it in that time with the engine on a stand in front of me. But,I can tell you this,if the covers are on,your more than likely going to be calling a tow truck.

GD's right...Legacys are getting cheaper and easier to find. I see good ones that need a little work,all the time now,for $300-$700. That does bring into question why someone would want to mess with a ea82 car. For me, I have faith in my ea82 motor. I followed all the guidance from the board here,re-sealed it with quality gaskets and didn't take any short cuts. Aside from the design flaw of the over stressed timing belts,I think the motor is pretty solid. To overcome the timing belt issue,I carry with me in the smugglers hatch,a timing belt kit,Chiltons manual and tools to do the job wherever I may be when they let go. And,of course,I deleted the timing belt covers.

I'd buy it. You may get lucky and be able to eliminate the ticking by adding something to your engine oil,Seafoam or ATF or whatever "snake oil" you prefer. Several board members have gotten lucky this way. It may take a re-sealing of the oil pump. The o-ring kit is cheap. About $20. I have read from the board here that the pumps don't really wear out,they just need to be re-sealed and that will sometimes clear up the tick. There is a small o-ring sandwitched between the cam tower case and the head. Sometimes that o-ring needs to be replaced. Apparently,it will wear out and cause a loss of oil flow to the lifters causing the TOD. Seems the aftermarket o-rings,in this case,are less than desireable. Here,you'll want OEM o-rings. One per side. About $3... And,of course,it could be that the hydraulic lifters (HLVA) themselvers are either wore out or just gummed up,causing the TOD. In this case,you would have to pull the cam tower case/cases to get to them. Rebuilt ones are available for about $10 apiece,or rebuild the ones you have. Some folks on here will tell you the engine in your car is Junk even when its running perfectly.And,isn't worth fixing no matter how simple the problem is. I really like the ea-82's. But,mine runs perfect. I have done all the stuff to mine that I mentioned above,plus replaced the headgaskets. I change the oil often and never go more than a few days without popping the hood and making sure everything is looking good. Whatever you do,when you tear into the front of your engine,get all the timing belt cover components off and leave them off. Run around with the timing belts exposed and you'll like the engine much more. Several board members do this,including me,without any problems. And,when you do have a timing belt break,or your oil or water pump needs attention,the job is Much easier.

Put um on Dry...

Some of my favorite cars of all times were considered "throw aways"...The Ford Pinto,Ford Maverick. Anything made by AMC. Mid '90's escorts, Chevy Luv, and many others. Considered "Junk" by the masses. Cast away at the first sign of mechanical trouble. But,I still see these cars on the road today. Driven by people who are willing to work out the bugs and take good care of them. I say you take care of the Kia,maintain it as any automobile should be maintained,and prove to the masses that the Koreans Can build a automobile that will last 30 plus years. People hammered Japanese "Junk" cars for two or three decades. I see lots of them on the road.

Ahead and inboard of the rear right tire by just a few inches. It sits on a tray that is fastend with three 10mm bolts. The pump itself is hidden from view.