markjw

Yeah,I just did this a couple times. Gloyale is telling you where the last bolt is. Far to the left. Almost under the PS pump. You have to feel for it. You really can't see it. Just loosen it,thou. Don't remove it. And lift the pump straight up.

I seen a tidy spark plug thread repair kit at Schucks the other day. It came with at least a couple inserts and the tools to install them. I believe it was $17. It prolly says so on the package/instructions but,when you cut the new threads,you can use some bearing grease on the cutting tool to catch the metal chips. You know,so they don't go into the cyl.

For me, $300 tops. And thats only if your sure all the work was done correctly. And only because he is supposedly a subi mech with mad subi skills. But,I bet he wouldn't like that offer.

Be careful when you break lose the six manifold bolds. Don't be careless with any of them. Use a breaker bar with a six inch extension. A six sided socket in good shape works best. Square your body with the front of the vehicle,lean directly over the bolt and apply steady pressure. Keep the extension/socket directly in line with the bolt and even after it breaks free,go slow taking them out the rest of the way. Wire wheel them clean before you re-install. If you twist one off,you'll be then:mad: then:(

Buy it! Install it and maintain it the way you know it needs to be maintained. After you put 200K miles on it,you will have proved to the masses the engine is viable. It just needs the kind of attention only a gear head can give it.

I'm also wondering about the Rust Repair. Maybe the Rhino Liner works the way products like Rust Bullet and POR-15 work? Only,more durable.

Yup. Thats it. The three marks on the flywheel. I use the middle one of the three. I line it up directly under the cast pointer/indicator.

Thanks for all the positive comments. It's my first ea82 vehicle,and I am really happy with it. I had to do a bunch of work to the motor to get it going,but in the end,it runs very well. I figured out how to do almost all the work thru the search function, mostly.And,after resealing the motor and replacing some of the valve train components,it runs like a top. It sat in this guys garage for 5 or 6 years with a bad head gasket and some other crazy valve train problems. Originally,it was going to be my brother in law's ride,but he lost interest pretty quick when I told him we had to pull the motor. Some people don't understand how rewarding it is to bring one back to life.

Well Said... I'm not either. Usually. The look is growing on me,thou. My wife loves it.

Yeah,I guess they are.

It's definitely a diffrent look from the bone stock steelies and hubcaps I usually run. I feel a little too old to be crusing around in something so Sporty.

I guess I'd check for compression in all cylinders. Ideally,you would have 150 lbs/psi or so,in each hole. If you have good compression,then I'd be looking at a possible plugged exhaust. Like maybe the cat is plugged.

Yeah. You have to use the adapter's that came with your kit. They are not just adapters,they are the other half of what completes a sealed connection for your sender. So,you have to find a adapter for your adapter.

I agree... I could eventually get it done,too. But,weeks later and a thousand dollars later,I MIGHT have something that works. Unless metal fab is a hobby or interest that you may have,you are far better off buying one from someone who's in the business.

This fella here makes some of the best Lift Kits around. http://www.sjrlift.com/

I can't get that link to work for me,but you need the 8-7/8" OD Clutch Kit. Instead of the 2wd,7-7/8" OD Clutch. As far as which ones better?,The cheapest one is the best one. For me anyway.

I've got the same situation going with a white hatch over in the Dalles,Ore. Its siting in some kinda county impound yard amongst a few other impounds. It's been in the same spot for four months that I know of. I have so far found out it's probably a County Sheriff storage area. Not too much hope in a rescue,but it's a Nice one. I'd hate to see it go to the Crusher.

The 49 Railroad bridge that crosses from Washington to Oregon,just down stream of the Interstate 5 Hwy bridge has been closed all afternoon and evening. Closed to river traffic that is. Apparently,it's so hot out,that the steel hinge pins that lock the bridge into rail traffic position will not disengage because the metal is swollen from the heat. So,we're tied to a dock at Sundial. Troutdale area. Waiting for the steel to cool enough for the locks to release so they can swing the bridge for river traffic. A/C is working fine in the wheelhouse. Two overhead,RV style A/C's working double time just to keep up. Just wanted to share. Sorry about the off topic post.

I understand the concept of the dual core radiator being "better" than a single core. But,if everything else is in proper working order (e.g. thermostate,headgaskets,fans) then,shouldn't a new, standard replacement single core be adequate? I'm also looking to replace the radiator in a ea82 car. But,I've also replaced all the other cooling related components with new parts recommended by the board. Headgaskets,too. So,I'm going with the standard replacement radiator. Is that a bad idea?

Yeah,I don't know. I've tried to buy two cars out of two different yards in Oregon. One in the Dalles and one in Bend. I was turned down both times. And,both yard owners stated the same reason. That it was no longer legal to sell cars out of the yard. I'd grab that coupe if I could. It looks Great. At least what I can see of it.

Are you kidding me? Those cars are in Awesome shape. Just gettin' broke in,really. I'd love to have the coupe.

Once they make it out to the yard,they're no longer for sale as a whole car w/title. Oregon State law. Maybe in the staging area they still are. But,I doubt it.

Maybe one of your tires had developed a bulge on the tread surface. Sometimes almost impossible to see. You kinda have to feel for it.

I have had Great luck with Rock Auto. The parts are exactly as described,and they ship Fast. I cant comment on the other site. But,like someone else mentioned,watch the shipping quote from rock auto. Sometimes it seems kinda high.

What about a couple new valves? Can I just install some parts store valves into the seats that are in the head and call it good? I've been reading about lapping. It seems to be a controversial subject as to its validity.