markjw

I have no clue why the valve didn't get sucked into the cylinder when the keeper let go. I wasn't driving when all this happend so,i can't say for sure what happend. I do know the Rockers got tossed around a bit. The pads which ride on the cam were a bit marred up. So,I want to replace them. The cam survived well. The lobes are in geat shape. Definitly reusuable. My post over a FTE was mainly about putting New rockers on a existing cam. And the effects it would have on the cam as far as wear. I talked to Terry about it at CCR and apparently,as long as there are no flat spots on the rockers or cam lobes,it should be fine. Pretty much what you said over at FTE. (thanks for the reply,by the way) So,thats what I'm gonna do. Replace the stuff that was damaged,put it all back together,and go for it.

I did. It looks really good. While it was still in the car,a compression test showed 150lbs in both #1 and #3 cyl. #2 was at 0,and #4 was at about 5lbs. Its the inside valve, on #2 cyl. is where the keeper let go. But,both inside rockers were laying in the bottom of the cam case.

The valve seems to have free movement. Almost like a suction in the valve stem. It feels right. But,I'm suspicios of the head.Like GD said,what made it happen? I'm going to take the head in to a machine shop. I'm wondering, aside from the usual service of checking for cracks,flatness and cleaning, should I take all the parts I found and ask them to check it out,and if everything looks good, reassemble it with existing parts? Or,should I just ask them to replace some stuff/everything? If I do want them to replace parts,should I source and supply them? What do you guys think? This motor is pretty sweet,otherwise. It is worth saving.

I've tried that. A couple times. Usually for the exact reason your thinking about. To track down a vibration or a whine. I can tell you that it never worked for me. It seems that the whole dynamics of the drive train changes without the load. So,the noise and vibe's dissapear. In the end,in my situation,it was a u joint on one occasion and a rear wheel bearing on another. I say don't waste your time doing that.

Yeah...I figured it wasn't gonna be that simple. At this point,we're gonna pull the motor and pull the head. Have a good look around. Thanks for the advice.

I can't say much about abbrasion resistace. I have only used it on frames and stuff. But,I can say its pretty expensive to be using that way. I'd stick with spray paint for that kinda stuff.

Can I install the springs and keepers by hand? Should I find diffrent/new keepers?

I'm trying to help a friend fix his '91 loyale. We pulled the drivers side valve cover off and found a couple rockers,springs and a keeper laying in the bottom of the cam tower. I have no idea what I should do next. 'cept maybe replace the whole motor. Anyone got a better idea? 160k on the motor and never abused.

I've used the same product a few times. Alls I did was wire wheel the heavy rust off, wash the area (frame in my case) with sope and water,let it dry and paint on the POR...It stuck like glue. Looked great the day I sold the rig several years later. POR and other compounds like it need a certain amount of surface rust to work right. I never spent the extra $ on the "special" prep products.

Now that the city of Seattle is using salt on the roads,it wont be long before alot of the PNW subi's are rusty. Along with anything else thats a few years old. It's been a fun ride,but our days/years are numberd. It looks Great,Connie. I know your not driving it in the winter,either. I'm staying far away from Seattle during the winter months,also.

I just saw them. Thank.

Man,that tie rod is DONE! To even leave the driveway with that is insane. After you get that replaced,make sure the castle nut on the wheel end of the cv axle is good and tight. Judging by the condition of the tie rod end,you should really inspect the entire front end of your Brat and all the related steering components. That thing about one wheel not turning with both off the ground,thats normal.

Carbs Unlimited is located in Auburn. They can probably come up with anything you will need. I think they use to be in Fife,but moved. Maybe the same place your thinking of,Ed. http://www.carburetion.com/

Get a new can of carb cleaner. Make sure it comes with the little red straw so you can direct the spray into specific spots. Start your car and let it idle. Spray the carb cleaner a little at a time at places like the intake manifold gaskets,base of the carb,vac line connections. If you have a vac leak in a particular area. A vacuum leak will suck in the carb cleaner and your engine rpm will increase at least a little. Sometimes alot. Just listen for it. Take your time and be carful of the acc. belt/belts. I found a really Big vac leak in the intake manifold gasket of a sedan I picked up recently. It had the same symptoms your describing about your vehicle. Don't spray this stuff into your carb while your engine is running. In fact,I'm pretty sure its only for cleaning the outside of your carb.

I'd install the strut,loosely. Meaning just thread the nuts on a little from up above. Then install the knuckle onto the strut. Pull the axle thru the hub and install everything else. At least, I think thats how I'd do it.

Yes,thats a good looking Hatch! $450 seems a little low,but you probably made someones day. Don't feel bad about maybe not getting every dime out of a car deal you could have gotten. We aren't car dealers,we're car enthusiast. I have sold so many cars for less than what they are worth. And you know what,thats fine with me 'cause I just make up for it by seeking out good deals for myself. Don't sweat it.

Be careful of the torque converter.Its full of ATF and it can slide off the trans input shaft and hit the deck. Huge mess. Just make sure when you begin to seperate the engine and trans,your aware if it. Try and keep it pushed back towards the trans. Of course,it has to be unbolted from the flex plate.

Take it down to the car wash place. Spray it down with the cheapest engine de-greaser you can find,(wal-mart) and power wash it with the wand. It works Great..Of course,there is a environmental impact issue to consider. You can use Simple Green and it works well,but is kinda expensive. It doesnt take much,thou. The car wash place I go to has some kind of water seperation system for the run off. Good Thing!

I bought the Axle Installation tool that was on CL a few days ago. I met the guy at his shop in the Capitol Automall in Olympia. He also gave me this Flywheel tool that he says is for older Subarus. Apparently it keeps the Flywheel from turning while removing the crank nut. Anyone have any idea how to use it? I forgot to ask.

It seems to flood in that area almost every year. Several rivers run there. The Chehalis R.,Skookumchuck R. and the Newaukum R.,too. I know that when the snow pack is really high in the Cascade mountain range,just east of Centralia maybe 40 miles, and a warm rain comes in off the Pacific ocean in early spring,thats when the Real flooding problems happen. The snow melts so fast it floods all the rivers....Thats pretty much everywhere in Western Washington,thou. Occasionally,Interstate 5 is sitting under 10-12 feet of water thru there. Thats Feet,not inches. But,to answer your question as to why this particular wagon was flooded,the previous owner was in Texas when the flood came. No one thought the Subi was worth saving. 'cept me Chehalis River swallows up homes, residents airlifted out The freeway overpass in Chehalis was underwater, including Wal-Mart on the right. I-5, which runs below, was completely submerged. A Centralia neighborhood that runs next to I-5 which is fully submerged at the right. Flood waters from the Chehalis River inundate a neighborhood in Centralia. Looking south, semi trucks sit stranded on high ground above the flooded Interstate 5 at Exit 77 in Chehalis. Airplanes were moved to high ground at Chehalis Airport. Officials said it's the worst flooding in years in and around Chehalis and Centralia including Interstate 5. The barrier on Interstate 5 between the northbound and southbound lanes is swept away in places as the highway passes through Chehalis.

The wash went well. I blasted everything. I tried to stay away from the dash as much as possible. The seats are Nice. It was hard to tell thru all the mud,but they cleaned up well. I got some hard learned advice to pass on. Don't ever,ever ever ever,point the power washer wand at your headliner. It can't take it. The good thing is,it was 90 degrees today,with a breeze. It literally dried the car out in about six hours. Including the seats. For the most part,anyway. Check out this "gear lube"...

Heres the $100 Centralia Wagon I dragged home the other day. It has a Ton of mud in it. The doors have problems opening as well. The biggest problem with the doors is,the locking mechanism were froze up,but someone tried Very hard to still get in. So,one broken door handle and a little PB blaster here and there, all is Almost well. If the water had gotten into the dash,the car would not be worth salvage. Except maybe the motor and tranny. It only got a couple inch's above the froor, and its a mess. The old guy who owned it took pretty good care of it before the flood. It runs good even with the original feedback carb. Heading down to the car wash place tomorrow with all the interior parts including the carpet. I'm going to power wash everything. With the warm weather,hopefully everything will dry out fast. I really like this car. It has good wheels and tires on it,and it hasn't been messed with too much. Wiring and such. Thanks to Flowmasters post in the Craigs/ebay sub-forum,I was able to get it. Thanks again,Flow. I owe you a cold one.