markjw

Its at autozone. It's they're house brand and in all the autozones I have been to, its in the top shelf/rack all the way to the left. runs about $11 a gallon, non-diluted. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/AutoZone-1-gal-green-conventional-antifreeze-and-coolant?itemIdentifier=540722

complete clutch kits available for sixty bucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Brat-Etc-Clutch-Kit-Pressure-Plate-Clutch-Disc-/190203636430?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c49052ace#ht_952wt_1159

It grounds the body to the tranny.

And you shouldn't have to remove Any fuel rails or any of the harness. Like Gary said, it's just a matter of dis connection plugs and hoses and the four mounting bolts. If done right, the whole mess stays intact and will lift right off the top of the engine. The notion that your going to do a quality HG job on that engine without removing the intake manifold is just plain silly.

I think it was grossgary who said that after the engine and tranny are finally mated together, installing and tightening the four TC bolts will "pull' the TC forward into position behind the flexplate (about 1/4 inch gap there). That's when you know your TC was seated properly, before you ever start the engine. I followed that advice and it went well.

I loaded a 'long been dead' 4wd loyale onto a dolly once, tried to drive away and the 4wd was engaged. Was dragging a rear wheel and obviously starting the engine to get some vacuum to dis engage wasn't a quick fix. I dropped the diff end of the driveline, ratchet strapped it to the exhaust and away I went.

I'm trying to re-fresh an old '70 f250 that's been long neglected. I can buy 'new' wheel cylinders for $43 or rebuild kits for a few dollars. Can someone tell me if the rebuild kits are worth while?

It's been a couple days, but if your still having trouble, I can come out and maybe give a hand. call me if you wanna arrange something. Mark @ 360-970-3547

I think I'd go to PaP and get a whole different block. About $65.

I put a good EJ22 engine into a '91 legacy I picked up a couple months ago. I installed a brand new Subaru OEM thermostat at the same time. About a month ago, I started having overheating problems at high way speeds. The temp would go to about 2/3 rds on the factory gauge. Very consistently, too. Around town, it would stay just under half, always. The engine showed no other sighs of head gasket failure, except the temp gauge climbing at freeway speeds. I was very hesitant to do a HG job, as it just didn't seem like that was the case. Anyway, I stopped by Shucks today, picked up a cheapo thermostat, installed it, and the overheating is completely gone. So, I'm on my way to Subaru tomorrow to pickup another factory thermostat. Just wanted to share, even New, factory thermostat's can fail.

If you don't know how to pull the trouble codes from your ECU, search that here on the board, and see what that tells you.

I power washed (3000 psi) all the paint off of mine. They'r shiny chrome now. Looks way better.

Hmm. I use the cheapest anti-freeze I can buy. But, it's the Green stuff at Autozone. I'll be sure and avoid any Red anti-freeze. Wait a minute. That red stuff for RV water systems isn't coolant.

maybe your ignition switch at the column. I know the contacts in the switch can wear out. Also, check the harness connection at the ignition for corrosion or bad wiring.

That first pic I posted is of my '92, 2.2 in my wagon. All the others are of this EGR, 2.2 manifold I picked up somewhere. Pretty dirty, but mostly complete. Maybe some of these pic's will help.

And to the original poster, just so there is no confusion, your system doesn't have Freon in it. Freon is Dupont's trade name for r12. And, it was banned for automobile use in the mid nineties. Your system is charged with 134a. So, a recharge is a piece of cake. I wouldn't worry too much about adding oil unless the system is completely drawn down, in which case, you would need about 30 oz's of refrigerant and 4 oz's of the PAG oil. And as a warning, everything I know about automobile a/c systems, which ain't much, I learned off the internet, reading manuals and doing my own work. I'm no professional. So, do your own research and make your own decisions.

I don't want to start a flame war here, but isn't alot of the scary stuff written about servicing automotive a/c sytems just a bunch of bull? I mean, I remember when we had to switch from R12 to 134a it was said over and over that the Entire a/c system had to be replaced before you could do the conversion. Then, a few yrs later it was said that you only had to switch the condenser and the dryer. Well, now a days, I know for a fact you don't have to switch anything to do the conversion, because I've loaded 134a into several r12 systems, and it works fine. It is a good idea to put a vacuum on the system to evacuate as much moisture and old stuff as you can before you load in the PAG, but just because those two oils will mix, doesn't mean your cars gonna explode. They simply occupy the same space which makes the system less efficient, but still adequate, IMO. Anyway. This thread reminds me of "the old days" when the automotive a/c industry was laying down so much propaganda about amateurs servicing they'r own systems, no body wanted to even attempt it. And as far as leaks, they all leak. Even when they'r new. Just at different rates, of course. Replacing seals is a good idea, but really, you might get lucky and your system will hold a sufficient amount of refrigerant for 5 or 10 yrs. I say go for it. Head on down to Wally World, pick up a can of 134a and that loading hose they sell for about twelve bucks, run you a/c on full blast and let er rip.

Another thing to do, is to make one cut, in the center of the bracket, farthest away from the strut, bend the tabs out of the way. Do the same on your new struts and just bend them back. On lifted rigs, I've had good luck with cutting the entire bracket off of the strut, and let the brake line hang free. But, that really only works with a lifted rig as there is too much slack otherwise.

Just cut the brake line junction free from that bracket that it runs thru. If you do it right, you can still use the fastener to reattach it into it's original spot. You don't have to cut much away, either. Less than you would think.

If it's anything like my '92 2.2 then it leads into the aft end of the fuel rail by way of a metal tube. It starts off rubber hose, then about 5 inch's of the metal tube, then ends in rubber hose terminating at what looks like a pressure regulator.

Do you know the pressure of the New fuel pump? The stock one you replaced only puts out 3-4 lbs. Any more than that, and you'l have problems. Maybe.

1992 Legacy Auto Wagon 180K Cured with a simple drain and refill, three times with fresh tranny fluid. I know it's been said a million times to change out the fluid to possibly cure Torque Bind, but I just wanted to ad my two cents. And it was pretty bad TB. Completely gone now. I went with the cheap, house brand fluid at O'Reilly's. Sold in 1 gal jugs for about $15. Coincidentally, a single "drain" drains about a gallon so that was pretty handy to drain a gallon, add a gallon. The last two 4eat's I messed with, I used a much more expensive brand of fluid. Seems the Board Advice is, that's not necessary. Man I love these early Legacy wagon's. For the money, I just don't think there is a better car on the road. Good thing they'r so Ugly, else everybody would want one.

Yeah, I've done this a dozen times. Don't pull the drive line. Just separate it at the diff, and ratchet strap it to the exhaust. It's really handy to jack up one rear wheel so you can spin the shaft to access all the bolts. Otherwise you'll be pulling the car forward, trying to get the shaft to turn a little. Take a 3ld sledge and/or a big prybar in case the shaft flange doesn't want to separate from the diff flange after you get the bolts loose. Adjust your side view mirrors and keep an eye on those rear tires on the towed vehicle. If you get a flat, you'll never know it. Take a decent spare tire with you, too.

That's the idea behind a Gasket Slap....Throw caution to the wind, Gasket Slap it and see what happens.