markjw

Every ej22 motor I have come across with a blown head gasket (two so far) has exhibited your exact symptoms.

Those cracks between the valves don't mean too much. Every ea82 head I have pulled had those cracks. But, since you have them off, it'd be a good idea to take um into a machine shop for a shave and a pressure test.

I took one apart too far one time, and ruined it. The chamber that the coolant lines run in to and out of houses a clock spring , similar to the kind found in a electric choke. Don't take off that housing. There is nothing behind it to clean, and you wont be able to put it back together.

Don't even think about using anything But the OEM gaskets on the intake. This is a Junk, felpro one with about 4 months on it.

No-you don't need to re-torque the felpro 9392pt gasket's. I do a final torque of 52 ft. lbs. Follow the sequence. And, search the subject. It's probably the Most documented subject in this forum.

If you have any other Subaru or older Nissan keys laying around, give them a try.

Sorry. I don't have a pic. But, if you have the proper pieces, it should be obvious what goes where. Aside from the stamped, sheet metal bracket that bolts to the top of the passenger side head, and supports the back of the pump, you'l need the "special" thermostat housing that is specific to a power steering setup. It has a extended neck, longer than the one used on a non-power steering setup.

Head South out of Elbe on Hwy 7, about eight miles. Look for FS 74 (Forest Service Road 74) on your Right. Follow that road out for a mile or so. Stay Left at the fork and head up into a million acres of National Forest land. You should be able to find a better hill out there.

And not just the front covers. Take all the covers off. You'l have to pull the cam sprockets to get the rears off, but the benefit of it is well documented here.

Save yourself a little money and a Ton of headache and ditch All the belt covers. You'l be happy you did it.

I'm not saying it's a crappy transmission. In fact, just the opposite. They seem to last forever so they are plentiful. And, if someone does happen to have a problem with a push button 5 speed, they are usually looking for a D/R as a replacement. If you have the room, maybe hang onto it.

"Install the pulley,and torque to 69-76 ft-lbs." I just did this job a couple days ago. I put almost twice that amount of torque on the Crank Pulley Bolt.

I sent a perfectly good one to scrap a couple weeks ago. PnP in Tacoma sells them for about $50. If you wanna sit on it and wait to answer a "wanted" ad on Craigs, you might get $100 for it. But, you pretty much couldn't Give a push button tranny to this crowd.

Thanks for the tip!

1992 Legacy Wagon. Before I separated the engine and tranny, I was able to push the TQ back into the bell housing a 1/4" or so. I intended to leave it that way and have a smooth, clean separation of the engine and tranny. It didn't work out that way. There was some clunking and sudden dis engagement that caused me to lose track of the position of the Torque Converter. Anyway, will someone take a look at these pics? The mounting ears are protruding forward of the bell housing mating surface by about 0"-1/16". In other words, darn near flush. Is that right?

I'd replace all the spark plugs, too. Running around with a bad plug wire will short out a spark plug. It prolly needs new spark plugs anyway.

Thanks!....Exactly what I needed to know.

I searched and couldn't find what I need to know. I need to know if heads from a Interference, EJ22 motor will work with a early legacy, non-interference block? I'm pretty sure the heads would bolt up, and I'm also pretty sure the motor would probably even start, but would there be compression issues because of crank stroke differences? Maybe valve/piston clearance issues? Other problems I don't know about? Thanks.

Welcome! When you get the pic thing figured out, I'd/we'd like to see some of your soob. Also, some pics of your neck of the woods would be great. I researched your town a little. I found this quote. "There has never been a serious need for a law officer in Codroy. No serious offenses have occurred in Codroy." Sounds like a nice place.

I have the corner lights only, in good condition. I pulled them for another member and the deal fell through. Car has since gone to scrap. $20 shipped. BTW. The grill is part of the DL, dual headlight setup, too. It is not like a loyale grill as the plastic surrounds around the headlights are part of the grill making it a one piece unit.

I gotta ask, if I can go off topic for just a minute, about the Road Salt. Do you guys and gals on the East Coast and Mid-West believe the road salt that is used on your roads is necessary? I mean, with all the destruction salt causes to cars, roads, bridges and maybe the environment, is salting the roads something that Has to be done? I guess my question is, what if No salt was ever used on your roads, what would be the result, in your opinion, in regards to safe driving? BTW, I'm also glad to see your working on the little blue car again, Connie. I think about it from time to time, usually when I'm at the yards, keeping my eye out for a cherry back bumper. Glad you finally found one.

If i'm trying to start a loyale that hasn't ran in a while, and it wont start, I rap on the underside of the fuel pump tray with a small hammer or something. About half the time the pump starts working and works fine afterwards. So, it's not uncommon for them to "stick" after sitting. Or, like Rob said, maybe a ground wire problem which will eventually show up again.

Doh...Never mind. I just re read GLCraig's post. That explains it.

Whats the purpose of that o-ring? Just wondering...I think I have put flywheels on without that o-ring in place.

Yeah,don't rush it. It is a PITA. But, the column should not be too difficult to lower. Held up in place with two 12mm nuts accessed from underneath. A six inch extension on your ratchet will help. Once you get the dash out, put the column back up and secure it in place with the nuts. Otherwise, well its just easier that way.