markjw

Leave the steering wheel on. Just lower the column. The steering wheels are on tight and you will need a puller. If you do decide to pull the steering wheel,make a reference mark on the shaft so you can return it to the exact position.

You might try a new fuel filter. A plugged/dirty one will throw a injector mis-fire code.

Did you remove the bolts that are down inside the water jacket area? You really should remove the wrist pins. Its not difficult if you remove the three 14mm hex plugs and use a stiff, brass brazing rod, maybe 1/4" dia., to drive them out. Don't forget to remove the circlips first..

Yeah, it's a pretty good (old) thread. I wish it was complete with pics and a solid ending. I have read it several times. Still alot of good info.

I go to this every year. The admission fee is kinda outrageous at ten bucks, but towards the end of the day, the vendors are practically giving stuff away rather than loading it back onto their trailers. A couple yrs ago some guys were selling a near new set of 14" swampers for about $200. I think I offered $150 and got turned down. I'm still kicking myself for not buying them. Especially since my wife was standing next to me urging me to buy them. Stubbornness. I'll be looking for them guys this yr. http://www.moonshinersjeepclub.com/swapmeet/swapmeet.htm

The harness works, kinda....I took capt'r advice and started the EJ motor in the donor car before pulling it. The only thing that was sketchy about it all was powering the harness. Since I just ran battery power to the harness and ecu, and used a remote starter switch to the starter, it was quite a bit different. Anyway, the engine started, but would die right away. Almost as if it had a Major vacuum leak. And it was very consistent, too. Like instantly start, run for three seconds and suddenly die. I messed around with it for awhile, but got bored trying to troubleshoot it since the mock-up didn't have a keyed ignition. The engine did start right up, thou. I pulled the EJ out of the donor car today. That was a chore to say the least. The locating pins were seized into the tranny bell housing. I used a sharp wood chisel to get it to start. Once I was able to get my prybar in between the mating surfaces, things went much faster. I have to strip this EJ motor down a bit. I got a timing kit for it, front seals and valve cover seals. I'll leave the HG's alone as the motor runs perfect and only has 160K on it. Anybody have any ideas about the engine dying after startup? It's not too important right now. But, I am curious about it.

I just google "off center throw out bearing" I really think that your bearing is Ok. Seems alot of TO bearings are made to "self center" thus, the off-set.

I think I've seen that before. Try to force it to center with Just your hands. If you can, I wouldn't worrie about it.

I use a little grease on the contact edge of the TO bearing where it touch's the pressure plate. Not much. Just enough to skim the edge. A very small amount on the contact points where the fork touch's the bearing, too. I also put a little on the collar around the tranny input shaft. Not much, thou. Also, pull the fork off the pivot ball, put a little there and put just a little on the end of the input shaft. I think white lithium is recommended, but I use what I have.

Thinning the harness went well. It's been said that the swap is so well documented, anybody can do it. Along with Numbchuxs writeup (thanks chux!), and alot of searching and reading, this harness just might work. I still haven't tested it, and that'l have to wait. I gotta go to Portland for the rest of the week (work). But, when I get back, I'll have a full week to finish. The 13 Gal. bag is stuffed full of unnecessary wire from the EJ harness. No tape, no loom, just wire.

Man I've got a milk crate full of starters. You can have one. Located in Yelm.

Snug, and then a skosh more. Seriously, the torque values are not critical on the parts that bolt to the manifold. Use common sense. The manifold itself should be torqued to 12 ft. lbs.. Chase the threads in the heads and use anti-seize on the bolt threads.

Maybe you can pull the valve covers off and make sure all your valves are in place. I don't think ea82's are known for sucking valves into the cyl., but something is definitely wrong here. Are you absolutely sure the thing is out of gear?

Yeah..Studs in the engine are not good. I was thinking you were messing with the outer flex plate to TQ bolts. Like the guys above are saying, you need air impact with a quality 6 point socket.

Do you have enough room to get a tool like this in there? This is just a 4 1/2" grinder with a cutting wheel on it. I can cut stubborn bolts in seconds with this thing.

Yes...This harness is coming from the same car I'm getting the engine from. So, I simply unplugged the three engine harness plugs. Piece of cake. I did cut the wires from the relays in the big fuse block under the hood. I found out after I did it that they unplug. How much grief will that cause me? Here's a pic of the carnage.

And when you stab the engine with the dip stick, let it set for a few seconds rather than pulling it right out. I believe it makes for a more accurate read.

I wouldn't do a thing to force the crank until you figure out why it's binding. Why is the front of the engine on jacks? If you can, remedy that and try it. Is it a auto or stick? ea82 also, right?

It should spin freely either direction. Are the timing belts off now? And it still wont turn with the belts off?

It will bolt right into your EA82. All these parts will physically interchange. But, you have to keep track of the gear ratio in the tranny you install and make sure it match's the ratio of your rear diff. Like Miles said above, because you have a Turbo car, yours is a 3.7 tranny and diff, more than likely. You can climb under the back of your vehicle and read the silver aluminum tag on the back cover of the diff to verify that. Be careful spending that kinda money on a supposed LSD diff that the owner says came from a Loyale. LSD's never came on Loyale's. You should search the subject. There is Tons of info on it here. Read this thread first. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=114050

Thanks! I really didn't want to mess with all that. I'll check for the single wires around the throttle body.

My second question is no longer an issue. I pulled the harness from under the radiator, clear to the other side. No biggie. Probably a good idea in the end, as I will know what All the wires are now. I'm working on pulling the dash now. It'l be interesting to see how I'm going to get that huge a$$ harness thru the hole in the inner fender and into the cabin. Still wondering about the other questions, thou. Especially my first one about just unplugging the engine harness at the three plugs rather than pulling the engine harness off the engine.

Thanks for the heads up, Spenser. I installed some KYB's in the rear with stock ea82 wagon springs and it didn't fix the squatting problem. Whatever. I'll mess with that later. I started pulling the harness out of my donor car. I have some stupid questions, thou. First... Is there any reason to take all the wires off of the engine? I can save a Ton of work just unplugging the three connectors in pic #1 and keeping track of the plugs. Second... What about that part of the harness that runs underneath the radiator to the passenger side? Pic #2. Its for pass. headlite, radiator fans and some other stuff. Can I just cut that now, rather than try and fish all that out of there? Third...The under hood fuse/relay panel. Pic #3. I know I need Nothing from that. I unplugged as much as I could from underneath it. Alot of the wires don't unplug. They are in the fuse block more permanently. Can I just cut the rest of the wires now from the relays?

Anything on the Oregon coast thats more than a few years old, needs to be looked at Very closely. I've seen coastal cars and trucks that were as bad as any rust belt car. Usually, thou, they are a few years old. Kinda like our subi's. It may still be safe to buy a vehicle out of the Seattle area. But, those days are numbered. Salt is being used up there every year now.

I thought about that. If I knew I wasn't going to ruin anyones cloths, I'd do it. I know for certain washing shop rags in the machine at my house here would cause some serious problems for me.