[Full time d/r 5 speed]

Thanks, that is good information. So the full time 4wd on these transmissions is quite a bit different than an AWD system huh? Does this transmission really have any advantages over the part time box then if it is still only putting power to one wheel?

 

Does it improve handling over front wheel drive or handling on slick icy roads? I would assume that this box would get somewhat worse gas mileage to than a front wheel drive selectable box and they also do not have as low of a low range is that correct? So I guess, bottom line is is it worth it?

 

I am looking into buying the black turbo wagon that has been for sale on craigslist a while. It is a 4 speed automatic now and I am hoping it has a rear LSD but I don't know. That car would be a 3.7 ratio so a normal 5 speed pt hi/lo box would not just be a drop in then if I understand correctly but a Turbo RX full time box would be.

Thanks

[Full time d/r 5 speed]

Hi I am prepairing to build a 88 GL-10. I have long messed around with wagons but this time I really want to build a perfect setup. I love to mess around with the car in the mountains but most of the time I drive around town and use it on icy highways in the winter. I have been scared recently by the full time d/r as it spun me around on the highway a few weeks ago (I didn't realize what should have been obvious I guess)

 

So I was thinking of trying to find the full time d/r 5 speed with diff lock. That would offer the advantages of my box and just lack the front wheel drive option right? With diff lock it goes into a part time box correct? Also what is the final gear ratio from these. Is it the common 3.9 or the 3.7? I am still learning and would love to hear what you guys think. Also if any of you have one for sale let me know please. Thanks,Drew

[Fuel Injector only works while cranking]

The ECU will only run the fuel pump if it senses a tach signal, durring cranking, and for a short interval when the key is turned to run. You may have a problem with the tach signal to the ECU.

 

When I was trying to start the car simply by turning the key, it would make a 3 part clicking sound I think. On the third try of turning and nothing happening, the tachometer would peg all the way up and then come back down. Could that mean anything? Also How does the ECU know it is cranking?

 

 

Wire colors tend to change as they pass through different portions of the harness. Test for 12v at the wire to the starter solenoid when the switch is in the crank posistion.

 

Tested that and there is 0 voltage at the starter solenoid although there is voltage at the column.

[Fuel Injector only works while cranking]

Thanks for your reply, sounds like some good ideas

 

Sounds like a possible fuel issue to me. Like the pump isn't running immediately after start....

Would I test this with a pressure tester? I can hear the pump cycle on after turning the key on but then it stops. I did check for pressure (the wrong way by pulling a line off the filter and getting 6 foot spit of fuel) Is there any reason for it to run the pump for start but not run? The signal itself goes away for the injector, would that quite because it senses no fuel pressure?

 

 

 

 

 

They will all run the engine the same. The differences are not significant to your problem.

Oh good

 

 

Flip the parking light switch on top of the column. It's a Subaru thing....

oops how embarrasing

 

 

Manuals don't have crank inhibitors. There are no fuses, switches or relays in the crank circuit of a manual transmission EA82. Your ignition switch is likely bad.

Thats what I thought but I did test for a 12v signal at the solder joint of the ignition switch and it has it when in the start position so I assume it is ok. The wire I found that went to the starter was a large ga black with red strip. I found a wire of same ga and markings at the start post of the ignition switch and did a continuity test at both points and it failed. Strange that the wire would fail but could that be it, and if so what is the solution? If you still think it is the switch, how can I test it better?

 

There is a start signal wire (green with yellow stripe IIRC) that signals a start sequence in the ECU. That may be related to your fueling issue but it's hard to say. Just hooking up a crank button will not signal a start to the ECU. It's hard to say how much that actually matters in practice though. The line should be hot in CRANK only. It's powered by the ignition switch itself.

Thats interesting How would I test for that to see if it is actually making it to the computer?

 

Are all your sensors hooked up? The engine will have a very hard time starting without a MAF, or the CTS..... any codes from the ECU?

Yea, all the sensors are hooked up and it will start with no problem it just won;t keep it up. The check engine light isn't on but how do you check for codes. I know about the blinking light and have the panels off but which connectors need to be hooked up or disconected? those are the ones underneath the hood release handle right?

 

Thanks for your patience.

 

Drew

[Fuel Injector only works while cranking]

oh I forgot to add that the way I am able to crank it is by turning the key to on and manually cranking the starter by way of by pass wire to batt.

[Fuel Injector only works while cranking]

Hello to all! I have got a good one for you, I don't know what else to do. I picked up a 93 Subaru Loyale Wagon for next to nothing with a junk engine. I went to Pull n Save, pulled an identical motor - SPFI EA82.

<p>

This car had a push button 4wd 5 speed and while I was at it I swapped in a d/r 5 speed I had around. Everything is hooked up now and engine will start but as soon as it does so it immediately dies. It will continue running good on starting fluid but nothing more. I sighted down the throttle body and could see that while I was cranking the injector was spitting out fuel but as soon as it caught, no more. I hooked up a noid light and could see that the signal would pulse while cranking but as soon as the car would start, the light would fade to a very dim constant.

<p>

Here as possibly some related issues

<br>

The Loyale has a silver ECU but the engine is from an unknown year (stupid me for not writting it down. The intake manifolds look identical however and everything plugs in right.

<p>

When the battery is hooked up the tail/parking lights are lit. The only way to turn them off is to pull the fuse but the funny thing is that the tail light fuse doesn't do it, instead the only fuse that shuts them off is the door lock 20A fuse.

<p>

The other thing is that the key won't trigger the starter. I tested and found that when I turn the key to start the point on the switch itself reads 12v but not at the starter end. I tested for continuity between that column end of the wire and the starter end and there is none. Is there a lockout circuit like a neutral safety? The wiring diagram only shows one for automatics. I haven't hooked up the tranny harness. The car harness to the tranny consists of a square 4 wire white one and a 2 wire black one. The tranny itself only has a round 4 wire white one. I assume that I can snip the wires and just match them up. I also assume this doesn't have the neutral switch but from my reading that shouldn't affect starting. This car doesn't have cruise so is there a way to hook up that neutral switch to the clutch like some say?

<p>

Well thanks for all your help, I am really wanting to get this thing on the road and this is all that is stopping me. You guys are a great resource and I hope I have given a good enough description.

[twin hitachi fuel mixture settings]

I changed the spark plugs the other day and noticed they were rather dark and had small buildups. Not enough to do damage, but enough to say I'm running a little rich. I found the screws but not sure how much or which way to turn them. Logic tells me I should screw them in (screw in like a tape makes gap inside smaller and less fuel flow.) So, How far should I go? (Keeping in mind its not running rich enough to damage the plugs.) And am I right about the direction? Thanks people.

 

The screw is basicly a small air port and uses a needle to open or block a hole accordingly. More air is lean and less air means it has to suck more fuel and therefor rich. turning in (clockwise) lessens the air flow and richens so you should turn counterclockwise.

[Need EA82 Engine. Anyone selling?]

Call Aarons auto wrecking in Seattle. All Subie junkyard.

 

Hey thats a good idea, I'll call them in the morning. If I drop in an engine with 100,000 miles or so what kind of mileage do you suppose I can get. Thanks,

Drew

[Need EA82 Engine. Anyone selling?]

Yup I that is probably to far to go for a worn engine but thank you for telling me about it. I wrote him to ask how he is doing the VW conversion, very interesting.

Thanks

[Need EA82 Engine. Anyone selling?]

Hi, I have a 1985 Subaru Wagon with a fast dying carb engine. It has little compression and gets under 20MPG on the highway. I was going to just get rid of the car but I secretly like it and with gas prices I would like the MPG.

 

If I swap in a good engine what kind of gas mileage should I expect out of a carburetted non turbo wagon?

 

Is anyone selling a good EA82? I can swap all of my components over to it, just need the block but extras are fine to. I live in Walla Wall Washington, the southeastern corner but can drive over to the coast to pick up.

 

Thanks,

Drew

[Newbie BRAT suspension lift questions]

Hello to all I have enjoyed learning from all that you guys know. I live in SouthEastern Washington (Walla Walla) so not to far from all the action. I am working on a 1980 Brat that I just picked up. I have got a 5 speed dual range that I plan to mate to the ea71 that runs perfect and seems to have a lot more torque than the ea82 in my other car. I intend to use this for off roading and would like to do the 6" lift.

 

My question is regarding suspension lift. I haven't read anything about it but would it be possible to swap in taller springs for more suspension flex and height? For example find some car to swap struts from or change out the springs from the current struts to taller ones from elsewhere. If possible any donors I could look for?

What is involved in swapping the rear suspension from a ea82 powered wagon in place of the torsion bar of the brat? Will the same cv shafts from the brat still work in that suspension?

Thanks for all your help, any information will help.

Drew