CardinaA

This is just a shout out.... I used to have a '96 outback and found this board nothing short of amazing...I picked up a vtec accord for a song a few years back and let that outback go (a 2.2 5speed, such a great car) and now my fiance is getting rid of her accord...and we got a SUB again! Just signed on a 2009 legacy 2.5 i special edition, 5 speed, ruby red, heated seats, sunroof, 385 watt harmon/kardan stereo and AWD.....no more 6am snow shoveling sessions....can't wait to take delivery.... it's exciting to get involved with subaru again...my heart has never been with the hondas. anyone know where i could find a good deal on a 2.5 GT m/t shift knob? i can't stand the plastic imprinted one on the special edition...looks cheap.

I was reading a review on the 2007 Toyota Camry in the NYT and the article mentioned that Toyota is assembling the Camry in Subaru's Indiana plant; apparently Toyota purchased GM's stake in Fuji! This could mean great things for Subaru's future. We all know that GM DNA is laden with chromosomal anomalies and it seems that it may have been expressed in Subarus. Hopefully Toyota can buff up Subaru's reliablity. Cardy 3/4MD '96 Legacy Outback 5M with Salt City Rust and clicking CV joint

Have the Yakima rail riders setup on my 96 outback wagon; Yakima states that this configuration is only designed to carry 75 lbs. I've put a ~50 lb canoe and a couple of bikes on the rack before with no problems all while driving like Bo Duke. PS: the 58 inch load bars have been great for extra-wide loads; never realized how useful they'd be. I have caught my head on them a few times (ouch). Cardy 1/2 MD (done with Pediatrics and Psychiatry- have noticed a lot of docs own SUBS!)

I've got a 1996 Schizaru Legacy Outback with Yakima rail riders setup. I removed the factory cross bars to cut down on noise. I've mounted my road bike up top and driven like a amphetamine-crazed rally driver with no trouble (with the rack). I like the Yakima stuff, mostly for visual reasons. Many folks on this board will swear that Thule, however, is more sturdy and rust resistant. Bottom line- invest some $ in a good sport rack setup and never look back. You'll love having a solid setup up top. Period. Cardy 1/2 MD (3 wks into my psychiatry rotation in school!)

I have a 1996 Legacy Outback 5speed that has a minor exhaust leak at the front joint between the cat and Y pipe; I've had some "seals" put in over the past couple of years and I don't know if I can get away with that this time; I think I may be headed for a new cat ONLY because the front attachment is rusting and may no longer allow for jury rigging. My questions: (1)Where to go for exhaust work (I'm talking national chains, unless you live in Upstate New York and know a good local shop)? (2)Should I shop for a Cat online? (3)If so, where? (4) Why does my Subaru smell like a WET DOG!?! Cardy

Well, I was planning on staying out of this debate, but here I go anyway.... I have about three weeks off coming up in June and I was planning to drive across the country with a good friend- but not in my Subaru (96 Leg Outback 5M). I love the car to pieces, but it's just not a "road" car. It's a great commuter and wonderful for northern winters, but the germans have subaru beat for comfort and road manners. In fact, I'm seriously considering buying a very well maintained (2 owners with complete records from day 1) 1988 Mercedes 300SE (full size) with 170k for $2200 bucks. It needs a little exhaust work and has some rust (17 yrs in salt) but it's been maintained for "long hauls" by its previous owner. When I drove this thing, I couldn't believe how much more solid it was than my Sub. Now, I know a Benz is an electrical nightmare (but anyone else with a Sub had your dash lights fail?), and costs a fortune to fix, but it's just a better car for the road. Period. I can't imagine listening to a buzzing subaru for 5000 miles!

One other thing: if you ever need a good and cheap fork mount bike rack, skip the yakima/thule and order a tray from Rockymounts for like 60 bucks. I've owned a bright green (yay!-no BORING BLACK) tray for a few years and it's weathered well despite great use. I also love that I've got a unique rack setup (I've only seen a few other cars on the east coast with a green rockymounts tray). http://www.rockymounts.com/

Have had a Yakima system for four years in the salt country and I haven't noticed much deterioration. Personally, I feel the Yakima "image" suits Subarus (and most of their owners). Subaru of American obviously agrees. I used to have Thule on my Volvos and those knob fasteners for the rain gutter attachments would corrode in place. Finally, I just sold my last Volvo with "the rack included" because I couldn't get the damn thing off (Gawd- a 760 Turbo- what a freaking nightmare that thing was- the Swedes should stick to making beautiful women ONLY). The only trouble I've had with the Yakima is the lock cores freezing (like everything else) in the winter. Also, I have Yakima "rail rider" type set up and have toted a bike all over the northeast (fork mount) and have never had a problem (and I drive like Bo Duke on the backroads, no matter what I have on top of/ in the car). I just happen to favor Yakima from personal experience and don't have volumes of experience like others. Cardy 1/2MD

After an expected bout of fingerpointing between the local Subaru dealers and SOA, my local Subaru dealer is replacing the front coil spring free of charge. Initially, the local dealer service manager was very rude, but a little patience on my part and polite words went a long way. Thanks again for the help. Cardy Jones 1/2MD (will school EVER end?!?!)

Thanks for all the advice... I'm happy to read that Subaru may cover this problem; I had the spring guards installed in 2001 (right after I got the car); the car has spent all 9 years in upstate New York (presently in the Salt City), and given the body rust that has developed (more than avg. for a '96), I'd imagine my spring failure is due to corrosion. Right now, I need to get the VIN and have the dealer "check" if my car is eligible for recall work (it seems pretty clear, given that the recall covers all outbacks from 1995-1998). I also hope to convince Subaru to fix the right (intact) coil spring to PREVENT failure (but I'll be happy if the broken one is fixed gratis). I appreciate continued advice on this matter, and I'll post my "saga". Thanks, Cardy Jones

Argh! My driver's side front coil spring has a huge crack at the top! I noticed a funny sound about three weeks ago and the front end just felt "loose"; I had put a posting on the board about it. I finally got it checked out yesterday and thankfully my "factory recall spring gaurds" saved my new snow tires from getting damaged! But anway, does anyone know of a good supplier for coil springs? I was told I should replace both front springs. I'm not looking to get better handling out of the car (ie I don't need aftermarket tuner springs) but I do need a good deal, because I'm a very poor (but happy) medical student with no time for a DIY fix. Thanks for the help.... Cardy Jones

this whistles go "woo woo" http://media.ebaumsworld.com/index.php?e=bubbrubb.wmv

Hey All, I'm hearing/feeling a clunk upon takeoff from a dead stop at the left front wheel area of my 1996 Legacy Outback 2.2 5M w/ 148k. Three months ago, I had both front outer CV joints/boots replaced by my regular sub shop. Two weeks ago I had the oil changed at a quick lube place, and two hours later, I went over a bump, heard what sounded like a tool flying around under the car, and that was it. Today I heard the clunk for the first time and I can't figure out what shop to take it to first! Thanks for advice! Cardy

Hey all, I have tried to find a TRUSTY mechanic in Syracuase to work on my 1996 Legacy Outback 2.2 5M, but to no avail. Any suggestions from the crowd? <Much> appreciated! Cardy

I can tell you my experience with intermittent reverse lights- I have a 1996 Legacy Outback 5speed and it turned out the wires right at the switch for the reverse light (the switch actually bolts into the left side of the transmission) were not in good shape. I replaced the switch with a new one (25 bucks) and no trouble since.