xjoffroad92

I pressed the bearing to correct spot on the sprocket and it works fine. I think the PO may have tried pressing a new bearing in and pressed it in too far causing it to rub on the cover and fail. So the vehicle is running fine now. Thank you everyone for your help.

ok i bought a bearing from napa and pressed it on today. I pressed it to the mark where the last bearing was. I reinstalled the idler and when tightened it will not move because the plastic cover behind it is against the sprocket. There are marks indicating the last sprocket was spinning against it also. Has anyone run into this problem?

Yea msteel thats the one. I ordered an idler off of ebay, I never thought about napa carrying bearings wish I would have thought of that lol.

I tried rolling the idler by hand and the bearing fell apart and there was only like 1 ball bearing left. So I guess I have to find a source for the bearings or pay like $50 for a new idler, does anyone have the measurements handy for the bearings?

Thanks for all the help. I got everything off and ready to go but I have to order the belt for Tuesday. I will try the screwdriver thing to get it to turn over. Once everything was off I did notice some oil that seeped into the timing belt covers, so maybe the grinding noise was just the sound of the belt stripping due to being weakened from the oil. Anders

No I'm definitely replacing the belt. I guess I will have to check to see if anything has seized, I'm really hoping it wasn't something catastrophic that is making the drivers side cam sprocket really hard to turn.

turns out it is the drivers side timing belt, the teeth are all ripped off. Any tricks for turning the drivers side sprocket to line up the hole and slot in the cover? It seems really hard to turn compared to the passenger side.

yea i it lines up with 1, false alarm. I got it to run for about 10 seconds but it quit again and would not start up. I checked the plugs, they are getting spark. I can hear the fuel pump prime when i turn the key to the on position.

I turned the engine until the flywheel was in line with the bellhousing mark at 0. The rotor was turned to about the cylinder 4 position. Does this tell me anything? It should be at either the cylinder 1 or 3 position correct?

ok the passenger timing belt seems to be tight and intact.

ok i just did the diagnostic. With the green connectors i didn't get anything, but with the white connects (historic?) I got a code 11 and 13. These are both for the Crank Angle Sensor. Anyone know what to do with this lol? Thanks for your help. Anders

Thank you for the welcomes. I went out today and the rotor is turning when i crank it. It is also getting a spark from the coil and there is fuel in the throttle body. While searching I found a site about diagnostic codes from the ECU so maybe that will help. Thank you for your help. Anders

Hey I got my first subaru, a 94 loyale wagon, about a week and a half ago and it has been running well. Today I was idling at a stop light and it started making a grinding noise, the check engine light came on, and then it quit. It would not start back up, it turns over and sometimes sounds like it might start but doesn't. Do you think this could be the distributor or a timing belt breaking or something else? The PO said he did the timing belts 10k mi ago. Thank you for your help. Anders