j2coe

that's what i said:D, I just can't figure out why. big white has battery voltage, plug white or yellow has battery voltage (hot even without key on) black wire on plug no/.3? volts. everything shows no open that i can tell from resistance but I can't tell if or what could be shorted since there is no drain when it isn't running and I can't find specs on what it should read. I don't think the plug should test hot without the key from the diagrams I can find. or if the ecu isn't sending the signal for it to run why is it getting voltage through the plug wire? no blown fuses, no high readings on voltage drop but i don't really know what the wires on the plug should be doing.

sanded and rethreaded the grounds and connections when I did the voltage drops just in case, but it didn't help.

95 legacy, had alternator and battery tested, both good out of vehicle. in vehicle no charge going to battery. it starts and runs fine (untill the battery runs out of juice) been through the wiring harness and can't find any opens or bad fuses. voltage drop is 0.3 or less both directions. the wiring diagrams I can find show the wires on the plug going through the ignition switch but mine show voltage all the time. the white or yellow one battery voltage and the black one .3 or something ( forget exactly at the moment) Haven't been able to find any information on if these should be hot with out the key or what voltage the black wire should have. any info or other ideas would be appreciated. (I tried two other used alternators and got the same result 12.** voltage same as battery and drops as it runs)

P0171 got it again, still says L bank lean also on the code reader. replaced the front O2 sensor which had been shorting when I first got the car from exposed wires and looks dinged on one side so I don't expect it was in very good shape. got the code right after I fired it up after the swap. we'll see if it comes back again. still need to test pressure on the fuel system.

we're back! we're back! we're back! oooh sweet donuts, I mean forum. Never leave us again.

looks like the 2 plugs on the lighter/outlet were reversed, didn't know you could do that. seems to work with them switched back around. I suppose that clears up the question of any other short to the stereo. just need a new stereo without a fried volume control.

still working out kinks in a 1999 leg OB. it has an aftermarket stereo put in by the previous owner self installed I would guess since the harness was chopped. all the wires seem to match according to the wiring diagram I didn't check the polarity of the speakers since it's probably irrelivant. any way I had my ipod plugged in to the aux port -worked fine, but the charge was getting low so I plugged in the charger, after a horrible screeching noise the chargeris dead. won't work any more in any other vehicle in a good socket but will light up. the socket registers 12 volts with a meter but nothing plugged in to it will light up. that I really don't get. anyone seen anything like this? Even if I install a new stereo I would guess the same thing could happen again unless I can figure out what's up with the lighter/outlet

service manuel I found doesn't even show the fuel pressure regulator(s) any where in the fuel injection system. or any where else I could think to look. what a PITA. haven't found a Haynes for these either.

I believe it was p0173. I didn't know there were separate regulators for the 2 sides. since it isn't giving a code for an injector but the left bank that would make more sense. I'll check the service manual for the regulators and see what I can find out. or if it trips again today

I keep getting a check engine light with a code that comes back Left bank lean. would that be an injector issue or an electronic signal issue or something with the fuel rail? or something else entirely? It has been less frequent a couple weeks since the last time after I ran a can of seafoam and a new fuel filter. but it came back today.

sits- oil drains from chanels, 50 feet up and down the drive with an hour between not enough time to build pressure and circulate so by the end oil pump warm and some what starved? then sits over night takes a little while to get oil back to the pump?

see if you can take it for a test drive to a local parts store. lots of them will test a check engine for free and tell you what code(s) are present.

sorry spent the afternoon in the ER with a kidney stone. realigned the marks once more this morning before I was interupted but haven't had the chance to put everything back together. the crank sprocket, the geared thing that drives the timing belt from the shaft and has the 6 things sticking out around the back of it 1 of which has the timing mark for the timing belt, yes that's the one I used. I know I feel like someone who's never changed a timing belt, just never done a 2.5 DOHC so there are more things to line up and teeth to count. didn't move any of the cams unless they can strip under the nuts that hold them and turn. OBDII doesn't show any codes

I've checked the procedure over and over, I keep counting the teeth to make sure it's right, make sure I start at TDC for #1 with a compression tester then take the pully off and advance to the mark on the tab behind the gear which lined up all of the others apart from the diagram having the tooth count pictures backwards so the one that has 54.5 showes groove to groove instead of groove to peak and the the opposite for 51 I can't find anything wrong with what I did appart from realigning things when they moved that I already described in the original post.

stuck a compression tester on getting 30 on the L bank on each cylinder with a hand cranked cycle. got 45 on #1. not sure I should do a proper compression test but I suppose the damage is done if it has been. cranking it again won't do more.