Subarule

You're not interested in a rebuilt/remanufactured alternator? They come with a warranty. One from a yard could be iffy. You need to know if your car takes 1 pulley or 2 for the alt. And, whichever it is, that the pulleys are good. Personally, I wouldn't mess around with an alternator from a yard. You could invest the money to buy it, put in the time to install it, and have it flake out on you in a week or a month. Then you have to start all over. With rebuilts you know you're good to go for quite a long period of time. Subarule

Well, I see they do have Michelin Weatherwise II. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_09576193000P?keyword=13+inch+tires&mv=tr I've bought those for like, $49.00 a tire. They are some great tires.

Sorry, I meant Guardsman, not Michelin. I used to buy Michelins called "Weatherwise II" but they don't seem to carry any under that name anymore. Maybe Guardsman is now the Sears branded name for tires made by Michelin. Anyway, great tires for the money if you're doing regular driving.

I've always gotten my 13" tires at Sears. Never had a problem with them not being in stock. I buy & replace as matched sets of 4. Since my car is a daily driver I typically run Michelin All-Weathers. In a good sale you can get $85-$90 tires for about $50 each. I also spent the $25.00 extra or whatever it was to get the replacement insurance on all 4 tires. Definitely worth it. And the bonus in getting tires at Sears + the insurance is that there are Sears stores everywhere to get you fixed up.

Be sure to let us know how it's running since the fix. As for proper names for things, you did just fine. Throttle linkage, throttle cable = one & the same. Subarule

GLwagonlove,, I noticed that you are in Colorado. If your car sold new in Colorado it might have something on it called a "high altitude package". I bought my Sube new in Denver, it's a GL wagon, and it does have that. I don't know if it plays any role at all in the way your car is running but I wanted you to be aware that your Sube may have this. Truly, I have no idea what this high altitude package does but the very name of it suggests to me that it is aimed at altitudes where oxygen is thinner. Whether this integrates directly with the carb I don't know.

It most definitely should go back to normal RPMs by itself. You said you had a Weber put on recently. So did I. I don't know what set-up you used but I used the Redline Weber kit #K731 (32/36 DGEV), which is for electric chokes. There is also a #K730 (32/36 DGV) for manual chokes. The linkages for the 2 kits are slightly different from each other. Here is a reference for you to look at: http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/subaru/ I hope something I posted will help you sort it out.

It sounds like maybe your throttle linkage is hanging up, or not having smooth action. Make sure it's moving freely. It needs to be able to do this on its own without you hitting the gas pedal to un-bind it.

Steve's Pacific Import Auto 13311 Pacific Ave S Tacoma, WA 98444 (253) 536-0389 They have been there just about forever, and they specialize in Subarus. Here they are reviewed on Yelp, 5 stars out of 5. http://www.yelp.com/biz/steves-pacific-import-auto-tacoma Reviewed on NationalCitySearch: http://national.citysearch.com/profile/10872074/tacoma_wa/steve_s_pacific_import_auto.html Reviewed on InsiderPages: http://www.insiderpages.com/b/3723165889/steves-pacific-import-auto-tacoma All reviews are 5 stars out of 5.

I am the proud driver of a brand new, just-installed Weber carb, thanks to obk25xt. It is such a joy to drive now, because it's running so sweet & strong. Thank you for everything obk25xt.

Ignition coil?

OK, good information. I'll read your write-up.

I don't have any tools for working on cars. I have regular tools for household jobs but they probably aren't versatile enough for under the hood use. I was thinking after the end of next week. I have appointments I need to be to next week. Does that work for you?

Thank you for your reply. Battleground is not that far away from me. As far as I know, I have the adaptor - I bought the Redline Weber conversion kit and it's never been out of the box. Here is a link to the Weber kit I have - the K731. It lists the parts that come in the kit: http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/subaru/

I am ready to switch out the stock Hitachi for the Weber, which I already have (a Redline kit). Recently I had a rebuilt (supposedly) Hitachi put on the car to replace the original one that's been on the car since '86. The old one was running fine but I ran across this rebuilt one on Ebay that was an exact fit for my car. Should have left well enough alone. I don't know if it's the replacement carb or the way the yayhoos at the mechanic's shop it up but it runs terrible, and it's all carb-related. I've tried having them adjust it, to no avail. Maybe the carb is bad. I also have a feeling they don't know what they're doing. Anyway, I am ready to take the plunge and switch to the Weber. I can't do this job myself. And the thing is, I don't live anywhere near a good carb shop. I could drop the car off somewhere and leave it for a few days but I can't be without a car for very long (it's my only vehicle). And I can't afford to stay at a hotel or motel while I'm waiting for it. Is there someone who's good with carbs who is not real far from me? I live in SW Washington, in Cowlitz county. I am on Social Security and can afford to pay some, or do some bartering as well. Can anyone help me? (sob, sob, my poor faithful Subie-girl, sniff) Thanks in advance.

My t-stat was installed at my auto repair shop. If you know Portland & you know Phoenix & Tucson (and I know them well, along with Tucumcari, Gallop, and Banning and Indio and Blythe) then you know that when Portland gets temps in the 90s and next to no humidity then it feels like a blast furnace. I am very familiar with the high & low desert areas in the western half of the U.S. so I know what blast furnace temps feel like. I am not from here but from one of the driest, high desert cities in the U.S.

I bought a new t-stat online, from Rock Auto, I think about a year to 18 months ago. It is a Beck Arnley and was advertised as a direct replacement. So not from a Sube dealer. It has been fantastic. The gauge (and there is nothing wrong with the gauge) reads mid-way between Cold and the half-way mark to Hot. So at about the 1/4 mark. It is a 180 degree stat (direct replacement for my year & model). Today I drove 120 miles round trip and was in stop & go traffic around 4:30 pm in Portland, OR, trying to get on the bridge over the Columbia on I-5 into WA, just like thousands of other cars. The outdoor temp today was in the mid-90s and it felt like blast furnace - that super-hot, super dry desert air. And my t-stat never rose. I'm extremely happy with it & see no problem ordering online from a parts vendor where I can get a direct match.

Remember, expanding is not very far away from exploding. LOL

Not true.

Please check your PMs.

One or more of your hoses has a vacuum leak. Replace all vac hoses with brand new. Typical vac leak symptom.

I recently had a problem with not being able to start my car. I tried to turn the key and got nada, zero, zip, zilch. Turns out the KEY I was using was bad. An old one that apparently was worn out. I had laid my good key somewhere around the house & couldn't locate it in a hurry so I went to the back-up key (one of several). The bad back-up key, as it turned out.

Thanks. Where is the horn switch located? I've been through 4 different Subaru repair manuals for my car and can find no info at all on the horn's electrical connections.

I recently had some extensive work done on the front end, new front axle, to be specific. About 2 weeks later I went to use the horn and the high horn does not work. This was a new replacement horn, only about 1 & 1/2 years old. There is a low horn and a high horn (volume), one on each side of the car just behind the front bumper. Thre low vol horn works, sorta', although you can barely hear it. I had the shop where the work was done take a look and they could not find anything disconnected. Shortly after the front end work I had the car detailed and when I went to buy a new replacement horn the guy at the parts store said that the horn that wasn't working was waterproof so it couldn't be that it had gotten water in it. I bought another replacement horn & took it to the dealer to be installed. That was exactly a week ago. First time I tried it - today - that one doesn't work either. Apparently the dealer's mechanic(s) did not test it. So now I'm convinced it's not the horn but an electrical problem between the horn control in the steering wheel and the horn itself. What could it be, if visually the horn appears connected, looking up under the bumper? Car is an '86 GL 4WD wagon, carbed, non-FB. Thanks in advance for any help.

How old do you think all the vacuum lines are? Do you think they've ever been replaced? My advice: replace every vacuum line with brand new and then you have a starting point at which to diagnose any problems from that point on, unless replacing the hoses cures the one you're having now. Starting with all the lines brand new gives you a baseline. Something that you know is good and that you don't have to worry about..