TeamCF
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Posts posted by TeamCF
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There is more info if ya do some searching.
But this is where mine stands. Runs great except for a slight stumble when the secondary opens (I'm working on that but got distracted by blowing some gears out of my trans.....), and passes emissions.
WEBER JETS
Primary Air corrector--- 170
Secondary Air Corrector- 160
Primary Main Jet--- 140
Secondary Main Jet- 140
Primary Emulsion Tube--- F50
Secondary Emulsion Tube- F50
Primary Idle Jet--- 55
Secondary Idle Jet- 50
Just remember that your engine may want slightly different. The previous owner of my carb had both 50 idle jets and that worked great on his Brat. But I had to step the primary up one to get it to adjust right on my GL and not surge at low speeds. Both EA81s.
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No problem. And I forgot to mention. If you ever make it up near Portland you can go to Discount Import Parts. Over in Milwaukie. http://www.discountimportparts.com/
They are where I got my book. And I know they have other Weber books as well. And lots of Weber parts, air cleaners, fittings, jets, etc.
I would think there is a good place down near you, but if all else fails.
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Not really. I've been able to get a lot of info on them online. Punch "Weber 32 36" into a search and all kinds of stuff comes up. Granted a lot of it is for other vehicles with different sized engines, so jetting and such will be wrong. But basic setup is the same to just make it work.
Some info here: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/Table_of_contents.htm
Note that not all of the info is for the 32/36.
I ended up going out and picking up a book on Webers. Right now I have the Haynes one, but I know there are better ones out there. You can proly find it or have it ordered in at a local auto parts store. If you have a VW shop nearby they proly have all the books. As well as parts and guys that know their way around them.
Only had mine for a couple months now. Great carb once you get it figured out. Still have a few tweaks needed on mine as far as jetting goes for the secondary.
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The secondary is not really RPM/vacuum dependent on the Weber 32/36. Its throttle position dependent. I'd have to go out and look but I think it's about 2/3rds of the way to full throttle and it'll open using the linkage you posted in your first pic.
Even with the engine off, if you push the pedal all the way to the floor it should open.
If it's still not opening then it's possible something is not catching right in the linkage between the two. Looks right to me in the pics (as in nothing missing).
But a more trained Weber eye might catch something I'm missing.
The part you are holding open in the center pic is the choke. The first pic shows the link that opens the secondary. (Just to make sure we have things clear.
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Very cool. Man your Soob was just loaded!
I mean some of it is old tech now. But in 1985.
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Not to threadjack, but.
I just got this 2" lift done for a board member, thought Id post a pic
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The one big thing to look out for if you want to convert to HID.... Beam pattern.
You want a housing/lens that can produce a sharp cutoff. You can have the power of the sun coming out the front of your car and if the beam cuts off sharp at the top and is aimed properly. No one will be blinded. This is why so many factory HID setups use projector housings. But there are housings that fit our Soobs (I have the Hella H4 conversion in mine, I totally rewired the headlight circuit from the switch out to be common ground switched positive with 10 gauge wire and heavy duty relays) and they cutoff nicely.
Considering a HID kit myself. But might just make my overheads HID for night dune runs and such.
One thing to look out for too is that some of the cheaper HID kits use so-so bulbs. Meaning that they are not aligned as well as the standard H4 or whatever they are replacing. That can affect said beam pattern.
A HID conversion is something I've been researching for several years (since the days when you could not pick up a conversion kit for less than about $500). And I'm still not ready to make a choice.
and be careful to find conversion housings that have an internal built in "cap" over the end of the bulb. I went through two sets of housing that did not and they down right were terrible once you hit fog. Big wall of light in front of you from the uncovered end of the H4 bulb. HID will have the same problem as they normally do not have capped bulbs (I only know of one company that will cap them for an extra $20 if you need it). So uncontrolled light can just shine out everywhere. This is why I went with the Hellas in the end.
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From Lolo Pass today.
This was still making progress (about 3/4 of a mile after this it all went wrong) after what turned out to be a bad choice to camp up there overnight last night, I knew it was, and broke one of my own rules on trusting conditions. It was awesome powder all night, but poured rain this morning.
I've ended up with a blown up transmission (the 5speed HAS to go in now).
And a $400 bill from a snowcat driver for a recovery after getting into a spot that was just thick icy slush in an off camber uphill corner. It was getting dark, my boots were filled with water, so it was time to hike out and get help.
Still had fun though. And I now know my winch works pretty good as long as the trees are close by. Spent a good 12 hours on getting my Soob about 3 miles down the road.
I'm done with snow until 2013.
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For protection from broken headlights I've just been using Lamin-X film the past few years. The 40mil stuff for flat lights. Can buy it in bulk sheets. $15 or so worth is totally worth it to me to save my $100 Hella conversion.
Have to take care of it though. The first time I used it I never treated it (use Armor All type stuff, they sell their own special blend as well) and it got hazy after several months. Anytime I clean my lights (which is just about every time I think about it, I'm a full power light geek so I keep 'em clean) I just spray a little on and buff 'em. Best part is since the film is right on the glass you don't get that insulating airspace so full bulb heat keeps the snow off.
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You mentioned maybe converting to H4. I did a Hella H4 conversion on my GL (small rectangular 4 headlight setup) and I have no problems so far with snow buildup. Just putting that out there for reference.
Sounds like a bigger job for you though if you have the larger single non sealed beam headlights.
Would need to replace a bit to do it.
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Yeah I just put a quarter in each side on mine, been like that for at least two years now. I removed everything before I did my Weber (as described in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86141&highlight=sordid It's for the Hitachi, but a lot of the stuff you get rid of ends up applying to the Weber).
Now that the Weber is in it is so much nicer to have everything gone. It's simple, runs great, and still passes emissions where I'm at.
For routing of the PCV system I have mine set up a bit like this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74206[ (scroll all the way down to the pic of the EA82 with the yellow valve covers, different engine but the system is basically the same)
Only difference is I have the passenger side valve cover on my EA81 attached with a long hose to a small aircleaner up near the firewall up high to provide the intake of air for the PCV system. Then the driver's side valve cover runs to a T fitting that has a small hose that runs to the Weber's air cleaner, and a larger hose that runs to the PCV valve itself. It's really much like the stock system only I don't use the engine's aircleaner for the intake of fresh air.
Hope all that makes sense. Once you look at the pics and under the hood, then read up on how the air flows through the engine for the PCV system it starts to.
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We seem to have ethanol in all grades around me here in Oregon. But one of the stations in Sandy did put a new pump in with a smaller above ground tank that is ethanol free. The stuff is over $4.00 a gallon though. (was close to $5gal when they first installed it several months ago)
Supposed to be for off road use only.
I've heard the 90 days shelf life on the new blends of gas as well. But I usually have plenty of Seafoam and Stabil sitting around so if something is gonna sit, it gets treatment.
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Sorry to hear this.
For me, it is So Sad, because too many Time, Work, Effort and Money went on my 2.7 Project since 1999 when everything Started... You Might Laugh but let me Tell you that I even Cried...
I am Feeling So Sad...
And there will be no laughing, at least not from me. My old GL is not nearly as nice (well, it is to me for my use of it) and I've not put as much time into it. But I'd be severely bummed if it got wrecked as it's a family member at this point.
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Yeah my secondary is actually a 50. I had it written down wrong. (Well I had it written down right, but had it saved on the computer in a text file for reference wrong, And I just copied that and didn't double check my paper.....)
I figured I'd get it to pass, just didn't know if I'd need to keep trying or not.
I did seafoam the crap out of it a couple tanks beforehand though. Doubt any was left in the system. But I'm sure that helped. So that detail might be important.
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My first set of EMPIs vibrated a lot while accelerating. But I'm thinking it was a bad run of them. Those were the ones that grenaded the inner DOJs after only several thousand miles (still have one of the roller bearings out of one of them on the desk. They use little roller needle bearings instead of the usual balls in a cage). The second set was/is fine. But the boots dry rotted. No tears, just dried out and cracked along the outer edges of the ribs.
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From some camping the other night up on Lolo.
The snow has been kind of crummy.
Last year it was deeper.
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I failed for HC as well a few months back here in washington state, all i did was fill the tank, added a can of seafoam changed the air filter, turned my idle to just below the wa state maximum of 1100 rpm and drove it hard at 70-80 mph for about 20 minutes, passed with flying colors
Yup. Might try some seafoam and romping on it a bit. When I was working at a Mercedes shop we used to get customers with DEQ failures all the time. Nine times out of ten we never had to work on it. Just drove it hard to clean the engine out over to the DEQ test station several miles away. Only charged them for their tags. Of course this was mainly because most of our customers only drove their sleds slowly on weekends and got the engines all loaded up with carbon. So it might not apply to you.
And it sounds like you might have a slight intake leak. Different engine, but my EA81 had a loose bolt on the pass side intake, there was a sligt hint of coolant there. I got lucky and just re-torquing cured it. Smoothed out a rough running issue I had (though I can't say on it's effect on emissions, couldn't have been good, but I wasn't in need of testing it at the time).
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Yes, really.
heheI'd say get it running good and give it a shot. Your Brat might want slightly different jetting to pass, but it is possible. And jets are only like $5 each over at Discount Imports. So a little fiddling around is worth it to get it just perfect, they also have a guy there that knows Webers, only gotten to talk to him once but he pointed me in the right direction.
(for the most part only the idle jets ever need swapping, lots of generic Weber info on the web.) Like this: http://www.poustusa.com/weber_carb_pages/weber_carb_page.htm
And this: http://www.carburetion.com/weber/adjust.htm
For a totally different animal, but this has good info on the basics of what does what and how things affect each other (read the "Weber D**V tuning as a systems engineer" part) : http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Weber_DGV_Tuning
And lots more. They all end up pretty much repeating the same thing though. Then you just apply it to your car how it needs it.
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I'm loving the Weber. My Hitachi did well right up until the end (throttle shaft leakage, wouldn't idle no matter what) But the Weber is a joy to work on and tune.
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So I just got back from emissions testing my 83 GL with a Weber 32/36 on it.
Hydrocarbon limit is 220ppm here in Oregon. I got 22ppm.
CO limit is 1%. I got 0.0124%
CO+CO2% is supposed to be over 6%. I got 12.4%
No fancy tricks or fuel additives, just tuned it.
The inspector's jaw about hit the floor. Didn't even have to do a second idle test.
All emissions equipment removed except the catalytic converter.
Even the EGR is gone, because I could not get it to run right with it hooked up. (though the idle test would not be affected by that anyway)
For reference these are the jets I'm running to keep the adjustment screws in the Weber factory spec. I live at about 1,200' and have adjusted it to run good here at the house. But the test sites are just over sea level.
Primary Air corrector--- 170
Secondary Air Corrector- 160
Primary Main Jet--- 140
Secondary Main Jet- 140
Primary Emulsion Tube--- F50
Secondary Emulsion Tube- F50
Primary Idle Jet--- 55
Secondary Idle Jet- 50
Right now I'm.
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I talked to the local import parts house I had gotten my EMPI axles from, as my boots rotted and cracked within only several thousand miles. They said that they had enough complaints from boots failing in a short time that they switched from EMPI to GCK (boxed as "OP Parts" axles but the axle is a GCK inside). But they also told me that the replacement EMPI boots are better quality than the ones the axles come with, and have never had a complaint from customers that rebooted. Though I would think it's the same boot...... (unless they get the boots from a different supplier than the company that makes their axles..)
Anyway I ended up just popping in two new GCKs. Gonna reboot the EMPIs and keep 'em as spares.
(I've also had two EMPI inner DOJs grenade on me after only about 5,000 miles as well..... second set that needs boots seems fine though.)
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I'll have to look into all of that.
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That's why they make small speed part stickers.....
Or a small square of electrical tape placed just right over the panel window so it at least blocks you from having to look at it while driving.
(Had an 80's Volvo that always had the "burnt out brake light" light on even though it had all new bulbs, that fixed it up nice)
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Yup, DEQ is our emissions testing.
Yeah I've thought of just buying a new valve. It is opening it (can barely see it move but it makes the engine stumble) at idle. That's why I think maybe the Weber is supplying too much vacuum and it might need an orifice in the vacuum line to restrict it a bit. And I know I have the right port on the carb for egr. I've checked over and over with various manuals and online resources.
I checked the valve and it works smooth/holds vacuum. But could still be off I suppose.
Did clean some gunk out of the manifold. Had a shop vac going to suck it out while I picked away at it. but as with anything. Could proly be done better if I took the manifold off and really cleaned it out.
The Webers come with a handy little brass screw that threads into the egr port. then you just hook the hose back up over it. Unless they rev it and watch the valve, no one can tell it's not "actually" hooked up.
No tape required. But that is a good little trick.
The other good one is if you have some BB gun BB's (airsoft is too big). They fit in a vacuum hose perfect and will not fit in a vacuum fitting. Just stick one in the end of the hose and push the hose on. Plugged and no one can tell. And if you really needed to have the hose working again just cut an inch off at that end and it's unplugged again (as long as it's long enough).
And this makes me think. The '84 Brat this carb came off of passed Oregon DEQ. And he didn't even have an egr valve on it, or at least it was not hooked up. I got the carb with the egr screw plug in place and it came just as it was on his Brat.
BRAT on (4) tracks - on YouTube
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Might start here: http://www.mattracks.com/vehicles/select-by-vehicle/index.shtml?tab=4#VTabbedPanels1
For older Soobs that can be redrilled and made to be fitted with Toyota 6 lug wheels (or various other 6 lug light trucks). I would think a kit meant for one of those trucks would fit the bill. Proly with a bit of modification if it needs to tie into the suspension in any way.
But they are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.