TeamCF
-
Posts
1298 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by TeamCF
-
-
So I searched and found various egr related stuff but not this.
To start it's a 1983 EA81. De-smogged (except for cat, egr, and pcv) and has always passed DEQ that way (I tore it all out right from the get go years ago).
So I did a Weber swap. And picked up a egr valve from the JY off an EA82 that looked almost new. (nice and clean, holds vacuum) Got a new gasket for that as well. (I wanted to get rid of the extra hose I just had plugged and my old EGR was frozen up)
It runs great..... if I keep the egr vacuum hose disconnected. (I currently have the screw that plugs the Weber's egr port in and the hose on just to look "official")
As soon as I let the egr open even the tiniest bit using my vacuum pump, it runs like crap through the entire rpm range, idle to redline.
I know it's not a leak on the vacuum hose side of things. I've ruled that out. And every hose on the car is currently only about a week old (I bought a ton of hose in various sizes and went nuts).
It's just when the egr lets that bit of exhaust in it craps out.
And I don't know if it did this with the old carb. Like I sad the old egr valve was frozen shut, and the vacuum hose going to it I found was cracked and plugged with mud. for proly the last year or so by the looks of it.
Any ideas?
DEQ is next week for me. I'm gonna see if I can get it through without the egr working and the Weber (it's been done on other vehicles like Jeeps/toyotas, they tell me try the Hillsboro station, easy pass there). But would like to get everything working proper.
-
Granted I have had 14" PUGs on it in all these pics. But at the time it only had street tires on so it sorta counts.
Other than that pretty stock. (by the time they published it, I had taken the welded rear diff out and it still can do those trails no problem with the open diff with proper line picking)
http://rides.4wheeloffroad.com/ride/1115107/teamcf/1983/subaru/gl/photos/3.html
A few more recent vids.
Just playing in a gravel pit on an NWXJA run.
These two were the last time I drove it with the Hitachi on it. (This explains all the stalling, it was to the point you had to pump the pedal to keep it running. Not always easy to do on trails.)
-
That red coupe is quite awesome.
-
Sounds like yo got it covered for now.
The big thing is have a few basics and "be one with the machine".
That second cheesy part will let you know what you might need as far as particular extras.
I've always gotten pretty lucky with mine as well. Not sure if it's just a Soob thing.... But my GL seems to be good about letting me know whats up before it leaves me stranded as long as I'm paying attention, giving me time to fix it on my terms.
As crusty as it is, I'd feel fine about driving it cross country.
(Taking a few extra bits along with me of course to make life easier)Now the fact I had a plug wire break on me while doing a compression test yesterday (which all cylinders are between 160/165psi!
at 1,500' elevation, book said 170 is pretty much new), and no one in town will have any until Monday afternoon...Where is my pack of foil wrapped chewing gum?.....
-
Sheriff, "thanks for the help..oh look you don't have your off roading tags here's your $100 fine"
That proly would have been about it.
But I always keep a current OHV tag on it so there were no problems.
-
Fresh air would be good for the kid!
-
Yeah there are a few trails out there that a stock Soob can handle. Gotta watch it though, even the easy ones like Cedar Tree and powerline have rocks the size of lazy boys starting to grow out of them now. Totally doable still, but a bit of wrinkled sheetmetal is just gonna be how it is.
Hogsback is a fun one though. Not a ton as far as rocks and such go on it. It's just really tight with switchbacks. And is a decent climb.
(Though I've not been on it this year, there could be rocks now. The local clubs that adopted the trails have been busy.)
They will get you out there for an OHV permit though. I've been checked almost every other time I've been out there by the Sheriff. Even when I helped him repair his quad on the side of the trail he checked me for a current OHV afterwards.
-
One thing to remember. In Oregon any legal trails will have a sign on either end. Giving the name of the trail and such. And you HAVE to have an OHV permit to use them ($10 for two years so no reason not to have one). Also there is a new road use map out. http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c5/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gjAwhwtDDw9_AI8zPyhQoYAOUjMeXDfODy-HWHg-zDrx8kb4ADOBro-3nk56bqF-RGGGSZOCoCAPi8eX8!/dl3/d3/L2dJQSEvUUt3QS9ZQnZ3LzZfMjAwMDAwMDBBODBPSEhWTjJNMDAwMDAwMDA!/?navtype=&cid=stelprdb5292058&navid=110350000000000&pnavid=110000000000000&ss=110606&position=Not%20Yet%20Determined.Html&ttype=detail&pname=Mt.%20Hood%20National%20Forest-%20Home
This is just for the forest around me. But they exist for just about every national forest out there (the map books are free from your local FS office). They have it now so you have to check if it's an open road to drive on. They no longer gate or mark roads closed, it's up to you to find out using the maps.
And the fines are big. A guy on one of the local 4x4 forums got his truck impounded and a $2,500 fine for driving down a forest road he thought was fine to be on (no signs or gates).
It's getting strict out there. And the more it gets abused, the more they tighten up.
Not trying to be a buzzkill, just trying to arm you with some knowledge so you don't get screwed.
Also remember that your Soob would be considered a "class 2" OHV. that'll help ya figure out where there are trails to use. Honestly the closest place with some actual trails and such where there are a couple trails that a stocker could make it down would be out at Tillamook State forest/Browns Camp. I know there are a couple new ones near Detroit Lake but they are Jeeps with 36" tires and lockers type of trails. And are proly snowed in now.
-
I've not seen any jet kits for the Hitachi. But I do know there were "high altitude kits" for them. At least for the EA81. I've seen it mentioned a few times in various shop manuals (and my owners manual). I would think good luck finding one though....
-
Big thing is stay out of that secondary unless you really need it. I know at least on mine I can feel the pedal stiffen up a bit once it hits the point the secondary is gonna open on the Weber, kind of like a step I guess you could say. Now if you are just romping it down, then you won't feel it.
But really in around town driving I hardly find the need to "open it up". Just barely pushing the pedal to get what needs to be done, done.
(the fact I went for 15+ years without any tickets and then had a bad year this year and am one ticket away from losing my DL, they sent me a letter...... might be making me drive more "economical" though.....
)So far I'm getting about 25mpg out of my swap. But I'm still in the tuning stages of it. So final mpg is yet to be determined.
-
Congrats on the new hatch.
Instead of replacing that stuff, you could just delete it all and cap off the spacers on the exaust manifold. BUT, idk if its the same rules for emissions where you are at. Here in WA my '85 no longer has to do emissions.
I have them capped on my '83 GL. Passes here in Oregon no problem with all that gone. Only emissions garbage left on it is the EGR, PCV, and cat.
(We have to still test all the way back to 1975)
Of course it's an "at your own risk" type of thing.
-
Oooo, thats ugly! Glad you were able to fish out all the bits.
And this makes me glad I did the quarter mod years ago. Best $.50 I've spent on it it seems!
-
Always have a small toolbox with all the basics in it. A roll of bailing wire, Roll of Gorilla Tape, Roll of electrical tape. Some wire and some connectors.
Spare belt. Some oil. Zip ties if various sizes, picked up some that are about 1/2" wide, they seem to hold (almost) anything together. Small multimeter. Did carry coolant for a bit. But always have 2 gallons of water with me so I dumped that. In a pinch the water will get it home.
Was also carrying a brand new spare fuel pump (mine was acting up). But now it's on the car so I'm not carrying that anymore.
There are some other odds and ends as well, like some spare nuts and bolts. But I'd have to go digging in the 4 ammo cans mounted in the back to list them.
I've ripped out brake lines and ripped out front suspension bits on the trail. Always limped it home with those things. (in both cases it was early in the day and I kept wheeling most the day as well, gently of course)
Had my headlight relay take a dump once too at a very late hour. Just hard wired them to the battery and got home.
These things are amazingly easy to patch up with basic items so you can get home.
Just gotta use your head as to how safe any roadside patch jobs will be to get you there. -
Yeah my Soob already has a return line. I just plugged it off as the carb has nothing to hook to it.
And it should be noted that the factory Subaru return line has a 0.7mm orifice in it to restrict flow. This is an insert pressed into the fitting at the carb. I confirmed this with an emissions system diagram. So the return is not huge. But it's there to let a bit of excess pressure just go back to the tank.
Speaking of the pressure thing. I looked at the stock Soob pump specs.
2 to 8 psi is the operating range of the stock pump in my GL. Doubt it reaches that after all these years. But that will make a Weber VERY unhappy if it still can. (Incorrect fuel pressure is just about the #1 thing I've been reading is a mistake that makes them hard to tune perfectly)
I have a brand new 2 to 4 psi Facet pump sitting here. Perfect as I can get for now.
The Weber also requires up to 6 gallons per hour for a 200 horsepower application (I wish I cold get to that power!).
My new pump can provide 23gph. So I'm good there.
I'll have to pick up a gauge to measure the pressure. Thought I had one here. But I guess not.
-
Nice.
My uncle has an 8 wheeler (I think it's an Argo). The thing is a riot. -
An update on what I've found by scouring the net for 4 days and during the install last night (which was painless, I guess gathering a multitude of hoses, clamps, fittings and such was just good planning.
)Just about every site I've found on the matter. (Jeep, Opal, MG, Datsun, Nissan, Toyota, forums.) Recommends this setup for the 32/36.
Starting from the carb and going back the order is this. Carb, quality FPR with gauge set between 3-3.5psi, "T" for a return line (Or get a gauge, adjust your psi ans then attach the return to the extra FPR port). And most recommend an additional see through inline filter as well for insurance just before all that (as well as whatever filters your vehicle came with).
Seems like overkill to some, but I read over and over that though you'll get it good, it'll never tune absolutely perfect without the right pressure.
As for me. My return is blocked right now. I am going to add a "T" and hook it back up though just before the carb. And will proly pick up a decent FPR (All recommended the Holley FPR, the $30 Mr. Gasket one you can pick up easy is junk from what I've read) Soon so I can dial it in. but that's just me. Needing to DEQ it next month, I'm looking for all the advantages I can.
I'll have to put my Y-pipe with the cat back on to and re-tune. (I leave it off as it's always finding rocks and they get $$$$$ after awhile)
Exhaust has a good smell to it. The Hitachi always stank.
Mine is running pretty good though after some adjustments last night. Only has a slight hiccup when you are cruising and go romp on it, half second of hesitation, then it rips.
Never knew my GL had such a torque steer problem.... Starts easy, idles smooth, shuts right off with no dieseling.
-
Like was said if it's 4WD you can adjust the suspension a bit. (As long as the struts were not replaced with non adjustable ones at some point)
I have 195/75/14 tires on my 83 with no lift (except the factory adjustments). There is some rubbing though at full steering lock on the inside rear of the front wheel wells. And I had to cut out the bottom rear of the front fenders a little.
My last set of tires were 205/75/14 and they only rubbed slightly more. Hardly even noticed it except for the clean spot in the wheel wells.
A lift is in the plans though.
Lifting consists of blocks to drop the crossmember and struts, look around, there are threads in here with pics, check the off road FAQ. You need to keep the axles very close to the factory angles. Even with just my factory adjustments up. I tend to go through front axles a bit faster than what would be normal. But the adjusters ended up seizing there after too many trips to the sand dunes...... So I guess that's just life.
Glad I can get GCKs locally for pretty cheap. -
I'm gathering parts and bits for my Weber swap and was thinking about the return line as well.
Had a few thoughts.
A: Just plug the return line and call it good. (Which seems to be the most traveled path)
B: I've read somewhere in an old post on here that maybe the fitting from the Hitachi fits on the Weber? The Hitachi fitting has the "Y" for the return. This would need to be verified if the threads are the same. Not taken mine apart yet. That would be super simple if it matched up, though I kinda doubt it is the same....
C: Leave the Weber side of it alone. Get a brass "T" fitting that has a smaller port off the side (Had one in my hand the other day), and use a couple inches of fuel line between that and the carb, and off the small side fitting you connect the return line.
Just a few things I've been throwing around in my head. Will proly look at all 3 options when I tear into it tonight. A will proly win. But C would be nice if it all played well together.
My GL has the evap canister and such and I kind of wanted to connect everything up "like factory" just because. The fact I have DEQ to go through next month is affecting my choices a bit here as well. (the Hitachi took a pretty good dump, I knew it was just plain worn out when I rebuilt it last year, but a rebuild got me by. This is why I'm not gonna even try to DEQ and then swap. I know the Weber should pass as it came off of a Brat that recently passed with it on not too far from me. But it was all removed so I didn't see how it was hooked up before, but I think he eliminated the return. He's doing an EJ swap)
-
Simple and neat.
But does not seem to be practical for constant varied throttle use in a car. You would have to have an EGT gauge (Exhaust Gas Temp). And constantly be adjusting the mix as you drive.
In aircraft you tend to just set the throttle and leave it during different stages of flight. While watching the gauge and adjusting the mix to keep it in a certain range.
I've spent some time here and there in some cockpits.
Now if someone figured out all the details and is enjoying one in their ride. Well more power to them.
I'll stick to the Weber I just bought.
(thought being an aircraft nut, this appeals to my "airplane geek" side....)
-
I know a lot of guys (with various different newer rigs, including an Outback) will just pull the ABS fuse once the group hits the dirt/snow. You then only have to stare at the red (B!) light.
ABS can be great. But yeah, I have seen it freak out in off road conditions and become a liability. I know on newer Jeeps it, along with any other electronic driving aids, gets shut off once you shift into 4LO. My mom has a Liberty diesel and it has a button on the dash to shut it off when you want as well.
-
huh. I've known people that have run nothing but the BFG's for the past 30 years (I wheel mainly with guys twice my age that have been wheeling since the flat fenders were new......). And always loved the wear on them. Yeah not so great in mud. But I tend to stay out of it for the most part as well.
-
That's how ya do it.
I'll generally go to 15. And if I really need it I can go to 10 as insurance. If you find you get stuck and are careful to catch it quick enough and stop with the skinny pedal. The extra 5 psi can most of the time be enough to drive out of the holes. (works on snow too)
Most of the time though I just see guys not giving up and burying it. Then they need a pull....... If it stops on sand and the tires are still turning, you're done, and are just going to bury it to the frame. Time to air down more or back up if you can.
Just be careful when you go to 10 with the cookies. I got into too much sideways fun once at 10psi and got sand in the bead. Was stopping to air up every 20 miles all the way home.
-
Yeah, the swampers are the way to go for all out off road. And they have a 14" size that measures just over 27". http://www.intercotire.com/tires.php?id=10&g=1
Since my Soob became my only vehicle and I don't wheel it as hard as I used to (I mainly just do multi day backroads camping trips now, but it gets a beating here and there still) I wanted highway manners and long life. For all round use the BFG's have proven themselves for decades.
-
Looks like they could be just the thing.
BFG also makes the All Terrain KO in 195/75/14 again. They measure out just a hair over 26".
But the price is an issue with the BFG's (but not much more than those). I just got a set of the BFG's recently, and today out at TSF they did surprisingly well in the greasy, nasty goo that was coating every trail out there. Not perfect at any one thing, but pretty dang good at all of it.
EGR messing with me.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by TeamCF
The EA82 egr on the EA81 is actually somewhat common as it's a simpler valve (GD has posted abut it in the past). It's missing an extra port that fed another part of the emissions system that I've long since round filed.
I do have it to ported vacuum. It's the one Weber states is for the egr valve (why they give you a screw that fits into it to plug it if your vehicle never had an egr valve).
I have tried to drive it with it connected (ran all the way into Portland and halfway back before I couldn't take it anymore and had to just stop and buy some vacuum caps and remove the hose and cap it off). Barely runs.
I had the port on the carb plugged and worked the egr with a hand vacuum pump (Mighty Vac) for testing reasons to make sure the vacuum side of the egr valve was ok and not leaking. This also proved to me that it runs great until the valve opens, at any rpm (I know it is supposed to be closed at idle).
This is also at any engine temp (I also know the egr is normally ported through a temp valve so it only receives vacuum once the engine is up to temp, that temp valve is broken and was tossed a long time ago as well).
The only thing I'm thinking is maybe there needs to be an orifice in the vacuum line that opens the valve. Might be opening too much. Though it pretty much kills the engine even at high rpms when I manually open the valve even a millimeter.
I've done so much testing under every possible running condition it's not even funny.
But there is one other thing I need to test. I'll get it warmed up and manually open the valve slightly and spray carb cleaner on the shaft that runs from the diaphragm to the inside of the valve. Maybe it's leaking around that shaft. Causing there to be air getting in as well, (basically a vacuum leak).
I'll check tomorrow.