TeamCF
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Posts posted by TeamCF
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Air down. Air down. Air down.
Street tires are fine. Unless you have gobs of horsepower and can spin them really fast....... Aggressive tires will only dig you holes. I've seen some of the best dune action on slick aircraft tires. (The big dune buggy buses they use to give people rides run old aircraft tires and can go ANYWHERE out there.)
I pretty much grew up on sand dunes back in MI. Playing with various different toys. From bikes to Jeeps.
I generally air down to 15psi. And go to 10psi if I need it. (Any lower than that and you should have beadlocks, which is a bit much on most Soobs.)
I run out of horsepower long before I ever dig in and bury it in the GL.
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Must have been one heck of a backfire!
My GL gave a good backfire a few months back. The whole muffler is ballooned out now. Didn't blow the seam, but might be time for a new one soon.
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May as well detail it up while it's apart.
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Well there's your problem! Nothing like little metal bits in the oil pan. Hope you get it all back together soon!
Reminds me of my old engine. Had a knock since I had bought it.
Turns out there were two main bearings that were living in the bottom of the pan as chunks. The crank was just riding in bare block.
I put about 50,000 miles on it in that condition. And always wondered why it kept blowin main seals........ (obliterated a clutch too at WCSS10 right before I put a new engine in)
EA81 is a tough little engine. Bearings?! We don't need no stinking bearings!
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Nice. I went through coxchevy and it worked.
Looks like my GL has failed DEQ every time it was tested ran between 2001 and 2006. Changed owners every time right after too. Looks like it didn't pass so it got sold. Until I got it at the beginning of 2007.
Funny, it's always passed super clean and impressed the testers for me. It's called a tune up. :-p
Other than that it's clean.
Seems to be a lucky car. For an old compact wagon to change hands and fail DEQ so many times it's surprising it never made it into a junk yard. I was meant to get it.
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Ouch, didnt' just wear out the rings. Full on munched a set.
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Very nice.
You'll be able to fine tune the springs once you get it together. Those Impreza springs look to be a standard adjustable coilover kit size. So there should be quite the catalog of rates/lengths to play with when the time comes.
But who knows, it could very well work out to be just right.
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Might find that Motul in a motorcycle shop. It's a popular brand around here in the shops. Now that's for fork oil, 2 stroke oil, etc. But bikes got gearboxes too. So I'm sure it's on the shelf, just never looked (I'm always in for 2 stroke).
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Dang.
When I did my engine build I just went with the 180* one from Rock Auto (went with a cooler one for desert runs and sand duneing) as it was easy to just throw it on the order with the other parts.
It is like the one on the right. As much as I hate dealing with coolant and getting to the dealer is a hassle and a half for me (I drive by one maybe once a month at about 1am.....). I think I'm gonna go pick one up and do the swap.
That reminds me. My factory fan quit. gotta fix that today, been just remembering to flip the switch for the aux one I put in the past week.
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hehe Yeah the desert will do that. I have to blow out the Soob with the air compressor every time I get back from a trip to Christmas Valley.
It's still filthy in there though. And being it's the daily driver now it drives my Fiancee nuts. Every time you get out of the car you are dirty. Can't go too fast on the freeway or it comes pouring out the vents.
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I have a Garmin Colorado 400t. Has topo maps and such. Been using it (along with real USFS maps) for a few years now and love it.
I've been partial to the hand held style of GPS's over the standard in car styles just for the versatility and it is more geared to backwoods travel.
Got a nice mounting bracket for it over at RAM Mounts.
I just use the car charger from my old Moto RAZR to power it in the car. Saves batteries.
Had it in a little pocket on my two wheeled back roads exploring machine (still need to order a mount for that) and it flew out and bounced off a rock. Still works great.
Word of advice. Whichever GPS you get. Put some of that screen protector film on it. If you get one that is not touchscreen it will most likely have a plastic screen. In the summer it will get dusty and you'll end up driving and wiping it off with something other than a nice soft screen cleaner.
You can see where this is going. I scratched mine a tiny bit before buying a cheap pack of protectors and sticking one on there. Now, no problem (Hid the scratches too), I just give it a couple wipes with my thumb.
And I should mention I had a Magellan Triton 500. Was a piece of crap. Kept freezing up out of the box and finally quit working about 2 weeks after buying it. Only after I bought it did I find out Magellan got bought out by foreign investors and now likes to do beta testing on their customers. (Found out on the company forums) Old one's are proly fine, but the new models seem to always be buggy.
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TeamCF - are those Daylighters mounted to the roof, or your racks? They look like they're on the sheet metal. and you should take some pictures of the nighttime performance of those projectors...
They are mounted through the roof. I have no headliner and the sheetmetal is all braced up/added extra layers around the holes. Ended up working out pretty good. Did that long before I ever thought I'd afford a roof rack (then I was given a brand new Yakima for free).
The wiring for the projectors is currently hooked to the Hella 500's. One projector burned out, the other had the lens crack. They cost like $15 back in the 90's (and always have out of the box, even now.... smell like a squished skunk). Just had them laying around. I plan on replacing them at some point though. They did work pretty good though before they went belly up.
(for cheapo lights) -
Forget if I had posted in this before. But if I did it's all different now anyway.
KC knockoffs on the roof. Some driving lights on the roof rack pointed at about 45* for some side light. Hella 500 fogs on the bumper. Projectors in the old high beam location (I found the stock high beams to be redundant once I did the Hella H4 conversion)
What can't be seen is a set of small fogs up under the front fenders behind the bumper to provide light right in front of the tires. And a set of extra backup lights that fit perfect under the handle of the hatch on either side of the plate.
I find it all to be plenty of light for midnight dune runs, or tight trails at night. (Though you can always have more!
)A GM 100 amp alt powers it all.
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A good shovel.
Some gear and supplies just in case the worst kind of stuck were to happen and you had to spend the night in it somewhere remote before you could get it dug out.
Jerry can in case you end up having to run the Soob now and then to keep warm. Might need extra gas to get back out.
Most trips I go ready to stay the night even if it's only a quick afternoon run. But in the winter I feel the gear is a must.
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Whoa. I followed this one but must have missed the part where the engine was riding shotgun. Pretty cool.
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I have Legacy seats (I think out of a '92 Legacy...) in my '83 GL wagon. I just cut the Legacy mounting points off and welded the GL points on in the right spots and braced them up for strength. (use a welding blanket or something to keep sparks out of the bottoms of the seat foam.)
Super comfy.
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I've thought of this as my rockers are all smashed in and rotted out. Just cut out the outer facing panel (which I could proly just tear out at this point.....) and weld the right sized tubing into the void the full length. Would greatly strengthen the body. Seen it done on a few XJ's.
Just not had the time. :-\
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Well I looked but did not see what I was looking for.
But this link has close to what I used on my 504 wheels.
http://www.empius.com/vwcatalog/2011/191.html
Look at the "ball seat" lug nuts.
I found just washers at a VW shop that let you use regular lug nuts on ball seat rims. Not nearly as good as the correct lug nuts for your wheels. And I had to replace them every time I took the wheels off as they pretty much squished out. but it did offer a bit more bite than just regular nuts with the 504 wheels.
Not the right solution, but a hair more holding power.
After that I used thick grade 8 washers that I bent to fit the curve of the wheel and beveled the hole on. (better and more reusable, but still got wonky over time).
And then I spotted a set of 505's in a local JY for $28 and just switched.
(Best solution)Good luck!
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Love to but the Soob is down till June (I only have a few runs left in my tires so I saving it for Christmas Valley, can't afford new ones till next year....). And I'm sick as a dog.
And yeah you guys are gonna be playing in some snow. Has not dropped lower than 1,500-2,000 feet around here for the past few weeks.
As a reference the top of Goat is at about 4,200'.
Hopefully they are done logging around the tower. Last fall I tried to go up there and was met with a gate and security guard. Whole area was closed off for logging.
Let us know!
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Makes me wanna dig out that old Atari 2600 I have laying around.....
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Kinda hard to keep the "festivities" at bay with a brewery only a block or two away.
(and it's good stuff too, one of my friends used to be a brewer there up until this year when Widmer offered him a position)I tend to slurp my fair share but also tend to keep to myself low key/quiet.
I'll roam around and visit. But always respect others vehicles/preferred noise levels/children/etc.
Everyone can have fun, if we don't step on others definition of fun.
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Not to drag this back up from the depths. But the OP Parts axles are made by GCK. I just found some fine print on the box.
What do you or would you run for wheels?
in Off Road
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Being you posted in the off road section I'd say the 15" steel wheels.
Alloy is easy to destroy out on trails. Steel can be bent back into an air holding shape to get home.
Plus a 15" will give you more tire over a 16" for a certain overall tire size.
Which is a benefit off road.
Now if you want to carve it up on the pavement..... go with the bigger alloys.