TeamCF
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Posts posted by TeamCF
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+1 on a swap. Info for both can be found in the forums. The Nissan one is a bit more "no special tools" friendly. The GM swap may require cutting and welding of brackets. (Mine did) But more amps is oh so nice when it's needed.
(I have a tendency to run alot of lights in the woods at night. Alot.) -
Crummy connections. Check grounds, plugs, and all that kind of stuff. Could be under the hood or under the dash somewhere.
Where exactly?...... Wish I could say.
I know on my 83 GL the volt gauge reads wrong at times. And it's due to corrosion on the back of the cluster where the gauge mounts to the panel.
there are two studs with nuts that hold it on and provides the electrical connection. When I clean it it'll work fine for awhile. Need to do it again and put some dielectric grease on there.
That's my example. But every time I find something acting up like that it's usually a dirty, corroded, loose connection somewhere. Hey, pushin 30 years old on the wiring!
They can be a pain to find. (or sometimes it's the first wire ya wiggle)Another example is my fuel pump quit. Crawled under it and unplugged it and plugged it back in. Turns out some crud was in the plug at the pump. Worked fine after that. Got home and crimped it tighter with some pliers a bit and dielectric greased it up. Two years now no problems.
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That's pretty cool right there.
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Closest you MIGHT get is to look at the VW Synco Van lockers.
I had a link to an offroad shop that does them for front and rear diffs in the VW's (I hear the front diff is similar to the r160...) But I lost all my bookmarks. Have to dig in the 4wheel drive off road mag I saw the article in last year.
I'm just to cheap to bother with the research. (they are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$)
These guys sell transaxles with lockers. But you have to buy the whole thing and there is no guarantee you'll be able to make it work in a Soob trans (proly won't) ... http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4281&category_id=386&category_parent_id=
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Before.
After. (but never done)
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Nice How come I am never offered to come anymore?
Sorry. It's been usually last minute stuff. Calls me fri night to go out saturday.
We all have to plan a run soon.
Dumping here at the house right now.
Now back to the snow pics.
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A few weeks ago up at the top of Mt. Defiance.
Last week near Bonney Meadows.
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Being in CA I'm betting you have to do the DEQ thing.
So I'd recommend that if your CAT is good leave it alone, get a second Y-pipe and gut that one for wheeling. Then you can easily swap for testing.
This is what I did. And makes for less headaches when new tags are needed. Just a quick swap.
I'd leave the CAT on all the time if I could. But the past has taught me that I'll almost always bash it in then have to gut it out anyway the first time I take it up FB5 out at TSF. (lots of rocks) And then buy a new one every time I need to test.
Just my .02
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Yeah swampers are kinda bunk on snowy roads. I've seen guys have decent luck with them siped though.
I'm originally from MI and studs/chains were illegal (you could buy chains specialty for off road use, but you could not use them on the road). not really dependent on what region you are in, just what the state says.
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Awesome to hear everything went so well.
Subaru folks are a good bunch of people.
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We'll get a trip going. I'm sure lots of peeps are already doing other trips with family this weekend.
Myself I'm packing up to go spend a long weekend in the forest with my friend "Jack".
No wheelin', just gonna set up and sit there way out away from the minivans and RVs till monday. (with a bunch of friends, a PA system, lasers, and pounding industrial music....)
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Yeah valve adjustment is an important one.
Just did mine last night as it's been about a year since I put that engine in and I did it then. Feels like a new engine. Only about half of them were out of spec. And only by a hair. But we are talking thousandths here, a hair is miles.
I've had my speedo buried. (geeze that sounds just wrong......
)Got the 4 speed. It can do it if you are patient.
But they don't like it. At least mine doesn't.
Old Soobs like to take their time and enjoy the scenery. May not get there fast, but you will always get there.
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Is everyone scared of Tillamook, come on wheelers lets go have some fun:banana:
Not scared of TSF.
Firebreak 5 back when the Soob was nearly stock. Cleaned the whole trail bottom to top with no assistance. Blew some Jeepers minds that day.
They now invite me to everything.Only scared of the yahoos and families on ATVs trying to get run over.
Do check out "Bates Road" though if you are still going. It's not long, it's kinda out of the way to get to, it does not really look like all that at first. When you come close to putting it on it's roof though. Oh yes the fun begins.
And always stay left for the most action. (it is two trails that keep crisscrossing, left is always the harder line)
Up is fun and kinda hairy. Down is just hangin in the seatbelt and puckering.
The guy I was with that showed me the trail told me he has buddies with comp ready rock buggies that are scared to go up it. I told me this AFTER I went up and waited at the top for him to catch up in his Jeep.
I hope it didn't get adopted and "fixed".
It was a big snaking, deep, V groove that had a few rock outcroppings when I went up it. You have to go from edge to edge and mirrors might not survive. (or doors...)
But if it's only your rig. I would not do it. I know one Soob has made it on it's roof on that one. (as in don't do it if you are alone for safety reasons, not saying your Soob can't make it.
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Glad I spotted this one. I have an 83 with solid rotors. Was not aware that they switched mid year. I would hope the parts guy would ask for a production date. But knowing my luck I would have gotten vented, and they would have been an ordered part.
Should just swap over.
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Oh yeah I'm all about using what you got laying around.
I recently dug a bunch of stuff that's been sitting up in the shop loft for ten years out. and found and used the following:
The "Stereo" in my GL. Is an old small amp I had and some old 4x6 speakers. I made a box out of MDF I had laying around, it mounts on my cargo holder.
The amp is under the dash with an RCA to headphone jack cable coming out. I plug my cheap MP3 player into it.
Total cost. $3 for the cable.
It'll blast me out of the car and does not sound too bad either. Fine for a camping rig. Even have it on it's own toggle switched circuit so I can have only it on with the hatch open for campsite tunes.I had a set of driving lights that look just like your cargo light.
I mounted them on the front corners of my roof rack and made a wiring harness using stuff I already had laying around. Now I have lights that shine out about 45 degrees for tight corners on trails at night.
Total cost. $0
Had some old projectors in that box. After my H4 conversion I no longer used my inner high beams. I made surrounds out of some plastic I had around and now have some slick fog lights that are not sticking out to get torn off by a tree. The wiring was already in the car from the last set.
Total cost. $0
All things I forgot I even had. Now back in use.
And many other small odds and ends. The best thing is to find a need for something. (once I say to myself "I wish I had this on the Soob right now..." 2 or 3 times, I put it on a list and make the change) And to be able to dig out the parts from the long lost reaches of the basement or something.
Put old crap to good use.
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If I had the time and money I'd make some trips up for this.
And Bash, the first pic I was like "Oh no...." then I scrolled down and that is pretty sweet.
Looks like something you'd buy at the local ATV shop. Only better.
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Having a light in the back is great.
I had gotten a 6 LED one from a box truck awhile back. Mounted it to the hatch with a toggle right next to it.
Mine was water damaged so it's not super bright, need a new one. But I've seen them (scoobyclimbs has one) when they are new and they light up a huge area behind the car as well. Great for camping and he's used it to service a rally car at night. Just backed his hatch up to it and got to work.
I also flush mounted one of the LED tail light bulbs (on the EA81 wagon there are two holes in the hatch on each side with the plastic removed, which my plastic is long gone, that they press right into.) Cut a hole for a rocker switch right next to it. It's angled inward a bit so it aims near center.
The red light is great for camping as it does not attract bugs. (where as Gregg's box truck nuclear light had a swarm at WCSS11, I had no bugs around me
)And being LED I've left them on for hours with no heat or battery problems.
Mine are wired directly into the constant hot side of the dome light wiring.
I also have no headliner so it was easy to tap into. And being LED I'm not worried about too much draw.
I have 3 power ports in the cargo area, but they are wired into a dash switch. Didn't want to have to remember to turn it on every time I went back there. (It powers a plug in defroster, as my window lines are long gone, and the defroster switch activates bright backup lights now....)
Now that you have it all wired up you can swap out the lights at you leisure if the heat or power draw becomes an issue.
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good deal! Could you show me a diagram?
I'd have to put it together.
I referenced this: http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm
And modified it to my wants/needs.
I actually made two totally separate harnesses for high and low beam.
1. it kept it simple.
2. it keeps it easy to work on out on the trail in the middle of the night in a thunderstorm....
Depending on your Soob. You'll have to take into account things like the fact that the EA81's are common +, switched -.
But the harness kind of makes that not really matter. as long as you hook up to the two triggering terminals, the relay could care less about which is which.
I figured out which terminals on the outer headlight plug needed to be tapped into for the low beam. (used flat "spade" connectors right into the plug with lots of Dielectric grease and electrical tape for protection.)
And then just tapped right into the inner high beam headlight plug for the high beam.
That was just to trigger the relays.
Both harnesses share a common ground. And each has it's own fuse on the + wires from the battery.
With - going right to the - terminal on the bulb. And + going through each relay and then to either the high or low beam as needed.
The most expensive part was buying the two H4 headlight plugs!
This is what my low beam harness looks like all in wire loom and such.
You can see each - wire coming off each plug.
You can see the + with fuse and eye terminal to hook to the battery.
And the two blue wires from the relay go into the stock headlight plug to trigger it.
That old Hella Relay has since burned out and I replaced it with a 30 amp one from Napa or something. Was like $5.
Just remember solder and shrinkwrap are your friends to make it last.
And the dielectric grease to keep corrosion away from plugs.
And have a multimeter handy. It will help in determining +/- and so on. Makes life easier.
Once you test a few things and dive in it all makes sense.
I forget which is which now on the bulbs as far as terminals go and it's all sealed up at this point and buried. (not much room behind the lights on mine. I have to go in from the front to change a bulb.) But I've seen diagrams of which is which for hi/lo/neg and so on for bulbs online. Also I double checked with a couple alligator clips from the battery to just see which filament lit up.
But yeah the wiring upgrade alone seemed to double the brightness of the headlights. At first when I did the H4 conversion I just made adapter plugs for the stock wiring. Stock, almost 30 year old wiring is crap. The lights got way brighter once I did the harnesses.
Even the stock 4656 sealed beams would proly get a boost from better wire feeding them.
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Swapped to some E-code headlights.
This was the beam pattern with my old "diamond" H4 conversion.
This is my new E-code beam pattern.
Quite pleased.
I drive and wheel alot at night and in alot of bad weather. So lighting is one of my most important items to always improve. (90% of my wheeling is solo midnight runs during the week, I go ready to camp if it comes to it)
I put 20mil clear Lamin-X on them to protect from stones and such. Philips standard H4 bulbs. (none of that useless blue crap!) The Philips I have in my DD have been in there for 5 years.
I had Sylvania xtravision (not the blue ones) H4 bulbs in my other headlights in the Soob and they lasted about 4 months. 
Ever since I first did the H4 conversion even with the crappy "diamond" housings I found the inner high beams to be redundant. And could better serve as a spot for fogs.
My Soob doesn't go fast enough to outrun the low beams as it is!
I also upgraded the hi and lo beam harnesses using 30 amp relays and 10 ga wire. Overkill, but it's electrical, overkill is just fine in my book.
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Very nice!
Got the forest road machine right there.
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I would but I got a big covert camping party in the forest around the mountain this year.
Gregg keeps mentioning planning a big Soob run this fall. Proly camping out at TSF/Browns Camp and run the trails. I keep wanting to run them at night.
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The light blue EJ'ed hatch = Compact Japanese muscle car right there.
The 70's wagon =
:slobber:Great pics.
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I've had mine do that from time to time on me. Same deal, it can be fine all day, then it'll just decide to almost die when I idle at lights. Then it runs right either later or the next time I start it up.
All my emissions stuff is gone except for the EGR and CAT. Pretty much as per GD's "Living with your Hitachi" threads. (and when I did my engine swap I couldn't get the air pipes from under the heads undone, so I plugged them on the new engine, really cleaned things up under there and still does the DEQ just fine, cost me $0.50 ....
)Anyway. Mine's an 83 GL with a recently rebuilt "Craptachi" (but I find it works just fine except for this) as a reference.
So far I've just used it as a hint to clean the carb and do some adjustments. Seems to keep the episodes of low idle stalling far apart. Some Seafoam, spray carb cleaner, flat blade screwdriver, and 15 minutes makes it go away for months at a time.
The previous owner drilled out the plug on the idle mix screw on mine. Oddly enough while it's running I'll run the screw in and out a few times (keeping track of turns so it goes back to where it was, but I know the adjustment just in case) and it makes it run better.
So I'm betting a bit of crud gets lodged at the screw point, and chokes it a bit until it washes out of there...... But that's just what I'm thinking it is on mine. Yours could be a different problem altogether (and so could mine for that matter) and I'm just rambling on now.
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Nissan 720 truck front Diff, axles and hubs will replace the rear diff and axles and Hubs , this will give me a stronger rearend and axles and the diff will bolt right in using the stock diff hanger and stock Soobie driveline , also with the rear diff welded I will be able to unlock the rear hubs using the Nissan 720 hubs
This will be neat to see done. Could be just the ticket.
welded diff on a commuter?
in Off Road
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I ran around on a welded diff on and off road for about a year.
The axles were horribly rusted on at the wheel end so I never took one out for street use.
I have since put the open one back in due to going more for long distance backroads stuff now, but I never broke a thing.
And I had it up on one rear wheel in steep climbs, and in other "It should break now!" positions plenty of times.
I wheel with another Soob that broke an axle (or two) just about every single time we went out.
Luck of the draw I think. Mine might have been built on a day when the drivetrain supply came from the right place. We were always hitting the same trails.