mudman

Great information. So the direct fit is the 3rd gen maxima 90 amp alternator with the grooved pulley. Change the pulley out and presto, it fits perfectly. As far as changing the pulley, can I use the pulley from my 79 brat alternator (I doubt that it will fit from what I've read using search), or do I have to order one? Would I have to bore, key and machine a pulley, or is there something available off the shelf?

Looks like any maxima 85 and above has a serpentine belt pulley. Do you just change this pulley out? The 1984 and below maximas look like a better fit (from pics on rock auto) but those are 60 Amp alts. Which one is the right one? Attached are the pics of the 2 alternators from rockauto. I probably need the 90 amp alt, I have fried 2 stock subaru alternators already. Lots of lights. I just want to make sure it fits with little to no problem. A little fabrication is not a problem, I've got the tools.

I see that the GM 7157 alternator fits on EA81's. and 82's. Will it also fit on the EA71? I hate this voltage regulator and 55 amp deal that I have now. I need to do the swap, but I may want to try a one wire. Are there any one wires that fit as easily as the 7157, or should I stick with a 7157, like most have done?

Do the Reman Alternators from Autozone have an internal voltage regulator in them. This is for a EA71 in a 79 brat. I thought that it would be in the alternator, but my charging system is reading 16V and above. Is this correct, or are there any consequences to this? The Alternator is brand new.

Awsome, what model and year should I order from for the EA81 distributor. I know that my EA71 is from a 79 brat.

I have an EA71 with the electronic control module mounted on the coil bracket and Electronic Disty. Looks like this module is around 500 bucks. The one that I have is working (if it aint broke.....), but I think that the disty is going. I am really looking for a suggestion. I can buy a reman disty to go with the ECM for 120 bucks, and I'll be running. Or I can go with a point style disty for around 70 bucks. I realize that the ECM is a better setup, but if the ECM goes out, its 500 in the bucket. How often do these things fail? If I go with the point style, what would need to be done to make this switch? Seems like I just get rid of the ECM and go from the coil to the point style disty. Is this correct, or is there more to it?

I changed out the alternator last night and I am now getting 14.5V, but it still seems to have a bad idle. I then blocked the EGR and it went from sounding poor, back to sounding great, but only for about 2 minuites. The EGR was blocked, the PCV valve blocked, new alternator, and the valve covers venting to atmosphere. Should sound great at idle, but it still does not. Oh yeah, the entire engine was rebuilt about 6 months ago. It sounded great for quite a while and all of a sudden it just started this crap. I started checking the Disty. How much play should it have at the rotor? I have maybe .003 horizontal and maybe as much as .006 up and down. Is this too much? Perhaps this is my idle problem? It still purrs at 3000 rpm no matter what is hooked up or blocked off. But when I pump the gas a few times, the engine starts right up and sounds great until that fuel is exhausted. Maybe carb problems? What should I be looking for? Carb is rebuilt and should be worry free. I have a fuel filter, so there should not be any trash in there. Don't know much about the Webers either. It is narrowed down to either disty or carb. Is there any way to trouble shoot these items without buying something new. A reman disty is around 125 bucks, and I'm not ready to spend that yet.

Well, I plugged the PCV valve, and it ran the same with or without it. I am going to plate off the EGR. Seems to me to be the alternator. Is it possible that a defective alternator and a weak battery would cause the engine to stumble on idle? Would it throw a weak spark across the plugs? I just dont get it. If the spark is weak at idle, wouldn't it be weak at higher rpm also? If I pump the gas a few times it will idle, so it seems that I can rule out spark. I'm completely confused here.

I removed the entire alternator, and taped the wires. Starts right up now, but I think that it is trying to trick me. I dont think it likes me very much. I hit the gas a few times, and it seemed responsive. This is of course after I charged the battery back up.

I was running the other day and now my engine won't idle. I have this 1979EA71 in a boat. I just got a weber from Jerry and man oh man, the thing was running fine. I noticed that the volt meter was at 12V when I left the dock, and then up to 16V at 3000 rpm. It then dropped back down to 12V, probably because I fried it. By the time it started running bad, I was at 10V. It would not idle, but would run fine at 2000 rpm. At idle the engine would pulse, and then die within a few seconds. Well, I got it home, and if I pump the gas, it will run for a few seconds and die. Seems to me a vac leak, or carb problems. I plugged the PCV valve and it would run, but very rough. So now I'm thinking PCV valve. Changed it, and no difference. I charged the batery this morning, and now it will idle again. I ordered a new alternator, but I can't see how this is my problem. How could a bad alternator have an engine run at 2000 rpm, but at idle it pulses and dies? Does anyone think that it is the alternator, or should I try something else? First thoughts are crap in jets or intake leak, but I am 90% sure that all is ok with fuel delivery.

Sounds like an air pocket. When an air pocket reaches the engine, it creates steam. The steam bubble grows and will cause overheating. The thermostat may be in contact with steam, or an air pocket and does not open. The air pocket may also be in contact with the temp sensor, and giving you a false reading in the morning. It is designed for liquid, not steam. Gurgling is not good. You will have to get the air pocket out by getting the bubble to move to a high point, or bleeding it off. It's a pain to do, but it needs to be done. If heater is hit and miss, I suspect to start there. Try removing hoses or bleeding off trapped air from there. The bubble is trapped in a lower point than your radiator , and will need to be removed or moved to a high point. If thats not it, IDK.

The carb says rochester 2 jet, which I assume to be a 2G. Nothing fancy about this carb. I don't think that its a dual jet. Idle is a little rough at 800 rpm, but I need to advance timing some still. At 2000 rpm it just purrs. Probably because it not progressive. I have a little flat spot on the throttle response, but it's nothing that I can't live with. I have a plate to isolate each side of the carb inside of the manifold, Vaccum should pull evenly from each side of the engine I would think. The plate does not go all the way up to the carb mounting body, instead it sits about 1/2" below. I put the plate in mainly because this is what I've seen on bigger V8 intakes to regulate fuel flow to each cylinder bank. I am finding out that it is alot of carb, and very primitave. I don;t expect that it will ever be spot on accurate, but I'm gonna play around a little more before I fork up the cash for the tried and true weber.

Well, after alot of research, I've learned that the idle screws are supposed to be adjusted independently on the Roch. One barrel feeds one side, and one barrel feeds the other, so they must be adjusted differently. I feel confident that this carb will work correctly, once adjusted correctly. At 280 CFM, it should work well, but this has been alot of trial and error getting it right. Right now, I'm not sure if I'd recommend using one of these on a sube, but I will see how it performs after some more adjustment and tinkering. Might be a screamer, might be a dud, we shall see. Thanks Naru for you insight, you've helped me out alot.

If you want to set the carb before you put it on, turn the air/fuel mixture out 2 1/2 turns. (not sure about your carbs, but that is the normal setting.) You really don't have to play with the idle setting because you can up the idle if its too low after it's on already. Once you get the ilde set to the RPM that you want (I would like about 800 rpm) you can begin to lean it out. Do not adjust the idle screw while you are adjusting the air/fuel mix. You turn the air/fuel screw in to have more air/less fuel. In = lean Out=rich. Once the engine starts to bog down, turn the air fuel screw out about 1/4 turn. Hit the gas and check for flat spots. If you find a flat spot/you will need to adjust fuel/air mix, probably by letting in more fuel. Once you get it where you think it's right, run the engine for a while. Pull the plugs and check to see if you're too rich or too lean. Adjust the screws accordingly.

Here is another thought. I do not have a fuel pressure regulator. The Rochesters are supposed to run at 3-5. What does the stock subaru fuel pump deliver?

Compression was a little low on that side, only by about 10 lbs, BEFORE the rebuild. I thought that this is what was giving me problems to begin with, but I feel confident that nothing is wong with the Engine mechanical system since it was rebuilt. I have no flat spots and throttle is very responsive, so I have to believe that I'm very close. After a half hour run time, the 2 and 4 are so dirty, that they don't want to fire. They are black. 1 and 3 look good. I even plugged the EGR, PCV valve,and I let the valve covers vent to atmosphere. The EGR does come from the side that is running fine, but I think that emmissions have nothing to do with my problem. One would have to guess carb, but I can't understand why. The next option would be weak spark, but I can see the spark jump from the cap to the wire(if I remove the wire). It will jump a gap of about 3/8" or so, so ignition must be good. It again brings me back to the carb or something with the emmissions that I don't know about. Decisions Decisions.

Ok, I have the 278 cfm then. Well, I just checked all plugs. The 1 and 3 are a nice tan color, but the 2 and 4 are black as night. I heard that one side runs dirty on these engines, but come on. Rochesters are not supposed to have each side adjusted independently are they? I thought that if I turn one side a half a turn, I must do the same to the other. Wait, that shouldn;t have anything to do with it. I've got too much gas on one side, not air. Or maybe its not enough air on one side? I rebuilt the engine, and I know it was done correctly, so why would one side run dirty? Could it be carb adjustment, or are we going around and around here and I only have enough vaccum on one side of the carb? It can't be that the carb is too big on only one side. Bad needle, badjet, bad entire side of the carb? This is making me nuts, because if one side is running great with the carb, why wont the other side? The carb is clean, I cleaned it 3 times already. I have no clue.

I have a hitachi and an extra manifold. I cant get the choke to work right, nor could I get that thing to idle properly at all. I bought it rebuilt, but without emmissions at all hooked up to it, it was a nightmare. Fuel/air mix did almost nothing to it. I am trying to use the simplist carb possible. I thought that they mada a carb with a fuel line to it and thats it. A small simple carb is what I was in search of when I came across the Rochester 2-jet. I was told that it was 280 CFM, but I cant be certain, that only what I was told. Is there a way to tell what the CFM is? The webers are about 300 if I'm not mistaken, but I only need 200 cfm. I figured that if the webers are 300 and work, why wont a 280? I'd rather something not as complex as the hitachi. I have no clue what most of the stuff all over that carb is. I'm looking at other options if the Roch is not 280cfm. Perhaps a single barrel holley or something thike that. I just want to keep it as simple as possible, but it needs to be reliable.

LMAO naru. Yes, I wanted to know the jet sizes of the Carter Weber to apply them to the Rochester. Still LMAO. Shapeshifting carbs.....funny. I figure that if I said I had a rochester, everyone would just tell me to "get a weber and be done with it." I really don't want to spend any more cash, nor do I want to hear what I fear is the inevitable. So I told a little white lie to try and track down the source of my problem. Didn't help b/c the carbs are completely different. Pretty dumb of me, I know. I shall not tell fibs on USMB again. The rochester sounds good, in fact really good. But how can it sound so good while it's throwing that much fuel into there? I suppose that the fuel air mixture is correct if I had a few more cylinders. I just have double the fuel/air that the engine needs, would this be correct? If this were correct, smaller jets would work, right? And if the Webers use 50 size jets, then a 50 is a 50, and a 50 will perform the same in the Rochester? IDK. Perhaps I am under the misunderstanding that any small simple carb should work if adjusted correctly. It mixes the fuel with the air, vaccum sucks it in, put a spark to that, and your piston is firing........Right? Not saying that a quadrajet would work, but I thought these rochester 2G carbs were about 280 cfm. The VW forum does say that "it will blow your mind" trying to get a rochester 2G to work. I want to get this thing running right, but I don't want to spend 300 more bucks to do so. What are the alternatives? Holley 5200?

I machined the top flange on the existing manifold to fit the two barrels. (I did this so that the barrels sit in line with the manifold and not perpendicular) Then I made an adapter plate on the bridgeport and welded it directly on the top flange of the manifold. I welded all of the vaccum ports on the manifold also, since I don't need them. I also split the manifold with a plate down the center so that one barrel feeds one side and the other barrel feeds the other side. I have absolutely zero leaks with the welding of the adapter plate (did a pressure test), so there is no vaccum leak.

I don't know how well this has been discussed, but I have tried to put a Rochester 2-jet on an EA-71. It seems that no matter what I've tried, I have too rich of a mixture. I have 50 size jets in. The smallest that they make are 42. It will run it, but it is very rich. I thought that this would be an excellent carb for a sube due to its simplicity, but I just can't lean it out. Perhaps this carb should stay on older 6 and 8 cyl engines. This link has alot of information about carbs on VW's, I would imagine that the same principals for these engines hold true for the opposed 4 subes. http://books.google.com/books?id=0EaJuPx71_oC&pg=PA34&lpg=PA34&dq=rochester+2+jet+Volkswagen&source=bl&ots=hK3LzqE5iv&sig=cedDLTSp9JVkb6cBWf1oNsWjIKs&hl=en&ei=9PSvSbjGApjAtgfvgtntBQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=1&ct=result#PPP1,M1 Has anyone else tried a Rochester on a sube? I just want to know if it's possible, or should i fork up the 300 bucks for the weber?

I'm sure that its fuel fouled. Heads were reworked and valves were reseated. Smoke is Black on starting and I have a heavy fuel smell. After running it for 10 minuites, it smells like I was swimming in gasoline. I've rotated the disty 180 and moved the wires and plugs. Still on same cyl. Should I try and adjust the float? The engine really does sound great, especially after the rebuild. All plugs are wet, but the #4 stops firing. If I pull the plug wire off a little to create an arc, it starts firing again (upping the voltage to that plug) I can only assume that its fuel related since there is no oil on plug or white/blue smoke out of exhaust. If it were disty, wouldn't it do that on all cyl's? Could it be float adjustment? Or should I play with the jets?

I am running hotter plugs, but it does not help. I'd rather not waste fuel though. I'm thinking rejet. Jets are only 6 bucks. Problem is, I don't which jets to get. I talked to one guy and he told me about .050. I think that he was just guessing though. Is this too big or too small for the EA71?

I just rebuilt this engine. New pistons, reworked heads, bearings, etc etc. The engine itself is tip top. Everything was within tolerance. The #4 plug keeps fouling. I have the carter weber setup. I run no emmissions on the engine. It starts up great and sounds great running. Upon further inspection, the #4 is not firing. Cleaned the plugs and run it again, and in about 30 minuites, I loose the number 4. Exhaust does smell rich, but no smoke. I get a puff of black upon start, but it stops right away. Why would this happen on only one cyl? It it were too rich, wouldn't it foul all plugs and run terrible? I can't figure this one out.

Well, I've got Oil pressure. Maybe too much. I pulled the line from the gauge and when I started it, nothing came out. I took it off of the oil pump and tried to blow through it, but I could not. I put the air compressor on the line and it still wouldn't go through. When I took apart all of the fittings, I found a bunch of gunk in there(I dont know how it got there) Wen I cleared the line the oil pressure reads 60 psi @ 1000 rpm and 65 psi at 2500 rpm. Maybe this will go down as the engine breaks in.