CNY_Dave
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Everything posted by CNY_Dave
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The dumb factor might be in the gauge vs the sender.
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Not sure what year/model, but if you get a used trans from 2004 (if your car earlier) or from before 2004 (if yours a 2004) there will probably be some parts in the tail housing that need to be swapped.
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I didn't help much- I thought the video you shot earlier was of the rear diff!
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The jolting was definitely in the rear diff though, yes? If one rear wheel was intermittently being driven the jolting transmitted through the driveline could make the trans jump.
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The rear diff is shot? Or did that stub pop out?
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4x the wheel rotation speed. Driveshaft / u-joint or (hopefully not) a bad pinion gear.
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270,000 I had on mine, down to almost -20F some winters, never had a drop out the weep hole. Statistically some out there should be dripping, but it's pretty rare.
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Oh, and be ready to put some timing chain guides in, some '01's ate them up a bit. Others are fine forever.
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Are you 100% it is the water pump? I have been on here awhile, yours would I think be the first. Are you getting coolant out the weep hole at the bottom of the timing case?
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When applying the accelerator, all the way too the floor?
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That's a trip to the junkyard caused by too big a hammer on the screwdriver!
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Could it have been the shaft in the CV joint jumping around? The inner joints can get pretty bad before they really complain!
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What, phosgene is bad for you?
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I never really saw the coolant circulate on my H6. May be because of the 2 return hoses, net flow near the cap is low.
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Don't make the down payment on the boat until the check from the new engine job clears!
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I had a detailed pic of the 4EAT system (it even showed the screen before the Duty C solenoid valve), the cooler feed is the return (dump) line from one specific circuit, and if the line is plugged that circuit will do weird stuff. file name is MSA5T0200A30120.pdf (you can google and find) 32 pages of MPT and VTD fluid circuits for each gear selection.
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Test with the FWD fuse, likely it will have no effect. The TCU can not sense if the AWD is not releasing, and no physical problem with the AWD can be detected- only the duty C solenoid (or circuit) being shorted or opened (same for the other solenoids). It could be a bad electrical connection or a short to ground in a connector or in the harness, or bad solenoid.
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Sounds like could be gas in it.
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The trans in the H6 cars is for some reason even clunkier than in the 4 cyl cars, it can get a set of learned parameters that make it work like crap. Try disconnecting the battery to wipe the learning.
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If the whole trans can wiggle, all kinds of motion could result.
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A friend of mine was bit by the pickup difference, I don't think it was a big job to swap.
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Don't underestimate the benefits of a nice, dry start! :o :o :o
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I've used torches on the caliper area around the bleeders, make sure to bleed out all the cooked brake fluid. Running a drill bit the same size as the bleeder hole all the way down, lightly, will ensure all the crud is out giving the penetrant you spray down the hole it's best shot at working.
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Time for window weld! Or whatever that goo is people put around the bad bushings.
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Could it be a rust ridge on the inner our outer edge of the pad swept area? Doesn't take much rust to raise a whole lotta fuss.
