CNY_Dave
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Everything posted by CNY_Dave
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Thermostat failed on my Forester at about 200k miles.
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Danger?
CNY_Dave replied to George Looms's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Has the battery recently been run down or changed? -
The new radiator in my '05 forester is zip-tied in place because it was just a liiiiitle too tall.
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If it was near me I'd be there with cash.
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Yellow and red parts would turn together.
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Running in air with wheels off a mechanics stethescope will tell the tale.
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Yeah the symptoms are all over the map. Suggests multiple failure mechanisms.
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I have never had one get warm, man some of them that would have made things a lot easier!
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Couldn't open it, adobe sw says file's corrupt
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I wish they lived close, I love a good mystery. I *used* to live right near New Britain.
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Checking for heat or looseness is always good, I had a back get loose but by then I was literally driving with ear plugs.
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Well it could be a bent hub. Never have seen one, but is possible. With wheels in the air has anyone run it so the wheels rotated and done a visual check nothing is rotating wobbly?
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On my 4EAT the secret sauce was to support by the front nub, jiggle up and down, and rotate it slowly.
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On my 03 outback the stupid low beams stayed on when the stupid high beams were on. drove me nuts.
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I try to always fill with he front end raised. I have a hilly yard so sometimes I fill then park it on the lawn with the nose up.
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I had an '03 H6 for a long time. I think the head gasket rates are about the same for any other aluminum block-head car. The rate is low but not zero. The 6cyl is really great if you do a lot of freeway driving. Around town I like my lighter more spritely 2.5L 2005 forester better.
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I had my '05 forester have the right front caliper go bad multiple times- the piston actually sticking. I finally bought a premium part and has been good since. I would make sure to flush the carp out of the system too.
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It might be the front or rear diff then. Or a very very draggy wheel bearing.
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My first Q is, does it roll easily in neutral?
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For my gonna-make-it-maybe-into-the-summer 248000 mile forester I bought the cheapest amazon radiator for the same problem. It was a skosh too tall and the top bracket holes would not line up. held it in place with zip ties...
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I use the bolt on flanges then when there's not enough of that left I attach springs to pull it forwards like an old-school 2-stroke motorcycle exhaust. I had the bell shaped end flange break off once and I hammered a short piece of pipe into a bell shape and slid that on. Never give up never surrender!
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I drove on mine until it was absurdly loud. I had a 50 mile commute then so called it due for swapping in a used trans.
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In a pinch I have made bubble flares with the standard tool, needs to be a situation where you can apply a fair bit of force to the nut to accomplish a last little bit of forming.
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A hand-pump vacuum oil changer can make the 3 drain-and-fills a lot easier.
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It is much easier and much neater and so much more likely to be done regularly. Also anytime fiddling with a drain pan plug or a hose there is a non-zero probability of a problem. So for me, $50 bucks to make a task much easier and much cleaner is an easy call.
