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CNY_Dave

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Everything posted by CNY_Dave

  1. A code means a diagnoised electrical problem so chances are good the clutch pack is OK. But no guarantees. 0 ohms to ground is bad, and so is infinite ohms to ground. Your meter needs to be able to read hundreds to several thousand ohms I think.
  2. I would be skeptical its wheel bearings. Have all the other front end components been checked?
  3. The duty C code can only be thrown by the circuit breaking, or shorting to ground, or improbably shorting to +12V. It could be the wiring from the TCU to the trans harness, or the trans harness, or the solenoid itself. Suggest checking to see if shorted to ground or at the trans harness connection at the top of the bellhousing.
  4. Happened to mine.Needs some goop at the very top corner. Take it off, fill it with water, turn it around a bit and spot the leaks, then dry it inside and out and silicone the leaky spots.
  5. I agree with one comment- buying a rust-belt car and moving to the west coast is going to hurt when you have the only rusty car there!
  6. If they don't walk in without having to really wail on the lug wrench, something's not right.
  7. Looking at that vid- personally, I disconnect the sway end link, makes it a lot easier.
  8. Rust belt, oh yes that's where I am... 250,000 miles and plenty of NY salt driving! The other one took a lot of torch heating to get the bolt out.
  9. GAH! How long can you nurse a Gen2 front ball joint? Picked up a new clunk recently, I have a front ball joint with about 1/4 inch side-side play when jacked by the frame, but I have a few hundred miles to do this weekend... do these pop quick, or can I be gentle and postpone the work until the next weekend? I have to do 60 miles this week, then a few hundred, then another 120 call it next week if I postpone. It would be a real effort to repair before the trip. Dave
  10. Seems easier to run the "proper" 4 into a loud muffler, then the other 2 into a quiet one to get close to the right sound... who feels like calculating the firing intervals?
  11. Our '05 forester has throttle-by-wire and it's pretty good, if you are doing very small on-off-on-off adjustments you can tell it's not a cable, but other than that no real difference.
  12. My 03 bad front wheel bearing responded in reverse to the turning test- it got QUIET when it was on the OUTSIDE and more loaded! You may have just had the second front one go after the first made enough noise to hid it.
  13. I just wanted to post up that having a supercharger under the hood is possible, and not so farfetched! I was a total auto noob once, I don't mock simple not-knowing and especially not when someone is asking so they will learn... I recall this one guy, had a 60-something chevy, engine said 'turbo-jet' on it, so he was sure there was a turbo in the block... but he didn't want to know if there was or wasn't!
  14. I think if you tighten the lug nuts carefully enough, that is get one just seated, then the next in the star pattern, then the next, and let the lugs center the wheel you can center it with no centering ring. You can also get shaking if there is corrosion on the rim where it faces the rotor, or on the rotor face. YMMV.
  15. I think there is usually a hole on the shift arm at the trans that lines up when you put the trans in N? P? you stick a drill bit in there, put the shifter in the appropriate gear, then adjust.
  16. On my '03 which has 6 CDs stuck in the changer, there was one day where I had to pull the fuse, the changer kept trying to load or eject with the key off. Try moving shifter around with key turned to 'start'. Our forester had a binding shift cable that kept it from moving forwards just enough it would not engage the interlock.
  17. Depends on year, my '03 outback has press-in fronts and bolt-in rear wheel bearings. Fronts a real pain, rears not too bad.
  18. Might have gone all the way through and be hiding on the frame between the framne and body.
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