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CNY_Dave

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Everything posted by CNY_Dave

  1. Rust is just starting to kill off the Gen 2 H6 cars up north, so the market for engines will only get better...
  2. The front wheels are always connected by gears and metal to the engine, so if there is no drive shaft to the rear pickup should not change. -But- maybe the stub shaft is in the transmission still, and it can't turn, and without the fuse in the MPT clutch locks up a little and power gest wasted trying to turn it.
  3. Now if the shaft is removed, is the solenoid activated just to keep the stub in the trans from bouncing around? It has a bearing at its front but uses the outside of the driveshaft on a bushing inside the rear of the tailsection for the rear support.
  4. I do not think the duty C will overheat from being energized- when (up to '03) it is energized and it relieves the pressure, the ATF goes through the solenoid, cooling it. Clever fellas, those subaru engineers...
  5. I would say when the engine is shut off and the coolant is pressurized the magic goo has a shot at creeping in the right direction.
  6. My rear light leaked where the colored plastic lensd part met the black plastic backshell, silicone applied at the periphery did the trick. The cracks were not easy to see.
  7. Some of these things have the same threads as some spark plugs, I think there's a plug chaser that matches the lug nut studs and ball joint stud threads...
  8. But each diff always thinks you're in a turn, so might (maybe, a tiny amount) lead to increased diff spider-gear wear.
  9. Googling subaru radio security code presents a myriad of instructions...
  10. You can use the 2001-2003 H6 non VDC trans if you pop the tail-housing off and put in your old (or new) AWD solenoid and valve. I have an '04 beaner trans in my '03, so I have a donor valve and solenoid sitting in a drawer if you end up needing one on-the-cheap. Mine was a bad pinion bearing.
  11. It could be the plugs... but I bet you pull 'em and they look brand new, if they are the factory brand. If someone put in lesser plugs at 60K or even 120k, who knows. Codes can be stored and ready to be read even if check-engine light not on at the moment. I'd say also check fuel pressure, could be the O-ring problem.
  12. Not normal but possible to do. You might get away with reseating it without taking the boot off. If not, you'll need a new set of boot clamps because you;ll need to pull the boot back to get it back in.
  13. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/44383-199-2004-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html will let you get trouble codes from the trans with no reader.
  14. Right- I didn't read the whole procedure and didn't read the 'power button' part, its the later handshake you linked to- and I may have though the 'handshake' referred to was for the TCU, not ECU.
  15. Coolant being low is the scariest, everything else is CV joints or a used driveshaft from a boneyard.
  16. The transmission codes do work via handshake on ODBII cars. I have used the method on my '03.
  17. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113278-how-to-read-transmission-codes/
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