CNY_Dave
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Everything posted by CNY_Dave
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FWD fuse
CNY_Dave replied to TRAVIS75's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I would amend that to say if the duty- C is Detectably bad- that is, short or open. If it were merely stuck (if such can happen), the TCU would not be able to tell. -
FWD fuse
CNY_Dave replied to TRAVIS75's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Here it is: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/44383-199-2004-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html -
FWD fuse
CNY_Dave replied to TRAVIS75's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
On my '03 4EAT: If the trans light is flashing because I disconnect the wire to the transfer solenoid (Duty C solenoid), the TCU senses this, flashes the AT Temp light, and inserting the FWD fuse will not make the FWD fuse light up. In this state, the AT light does not flash unless the engine is running, key on is not sufficient. You can pull the actual trans codes on that year, can't you? There's a thread somewhere with the magic sequence. -
Undertorqued lug nuts will cause multiple studs to fail, sometimes all at the same time! Overtorquing rarely causes a stud to fail.
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From the pic I can't see what is detached.
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Ongoing saga of a 2004 4EAT in a 2003. 2004 has max lockup with the transfer solenoid driven at +12V, min at 0V. 2003 is the opposite- no juice and it locks, +12V to disengage. I successfully used an inverting solenoid driver to invert the signal, that is, turn the 2003 signal of little blips to 0v for a little lockup and longer blips to 0v for more lockup into little blips to +12V for a little lockup and longer blips to +12V for more lockup. (In reality it is a 50Hz pulse-width-modulated signal). The outcome is about what I thought- it is driveable, doesn't seem to bind on tight circles, and it is sufficiently locked when I need it to be (still some snow about for testing), but it isn't quite right. In D from a standing start in snow it will spin for a moment then engage with a bang, and if I drive through snow slowly it will bang on and bang off. Fortunately it engages nice and smooth in 2 and 1, so I can live with it. On wet pavement, planting the gas from a standing start works OK with no bang. So, it's not 100%, and I need to drive it a bit to make sure nothing weird happens, but for my 200,000 mile subie I can live with it. Of course some of the symptoms might be from a trans that has seen some torque bind, or perhaps the clutch baskets are grooved a bit. Not in the mood for further teardowns this season, though.
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2003 outback with the H6, I have the trans connector B11 all pinned out except for pins 7, 10, and 16. Hoping one of these is +12V switched by the ignition. Surely at least one will be ground. Anyone have an ID on these pins?
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if you have a hitch, you might think of building an elevated T so the sheets have a rear support, and they could be moved back a bit (less upwards hitting wind). In any case, at least one rope going from the front of the wood to under the front bumper (counteracting the upwards force) is very helpful.
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2004 TCU would require also changing the ECU, and another (at least one) piece of electronics. So, easiest is invert the sig or build a manual control.
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This is not a 'diff-lock' mod, the 2004 trans I put in has the AWD respond to the TCU transfer-duty solenoid signal the opposite way as my '03 trans (car is an '03). My choice is invert the signal, or do ANOTHER trans swap. Needless to say, I'm inverting the signal. If it works properly with a simple inversion of the signal, I'll never use the switch again. I never had a case where 'more lock' under manual control would have helped the tiniest bit.
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At some point the trans lessened its tendency to slam into 3, so i never figured out what it was (disconnecting the battery and wiping the learning helped for awhile), and at just under 200k the front pinion bearing was making enough noise I just decided to swap in a boneyard trans. Unfortuneatly, 2004 was erroneously listed as a swap into a 2003, and I have to jerry-rig the AWD because the signal to the Duty c solenoid is opposite on the '04.
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Heh, maybe this is why I my front diff failed...
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This sounds like a 10 dollar trip to the junkyard. Many of the subes I saw today had somewhat torn-out dashes, easy access.
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Weird, all of a sudden there are a hatfull of front diff failures. Mine was from about 150,000 miles of high-speed and occasional really high speed and rough duty service, pinion bearing started whining and after many months started sounding much worse very quickly.
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But that method won't work with a torque wrench...
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I made one for my '03 H6, 3 pieces of 16ga sheet brazed together, 4 Grade 8 bolts.
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Heh, I think I found a diode that will work- ultra-fast 200V high current 1N3891, made for high frequency rectification. I also noticed when the TCU senses the current to the solenoid is too low, it latches the error condition and does not try to drive the solenoid until after the power is reset (key off).
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I want to see what failed in my 4EAT front diff, what has to be done beyond just taking off the bolts that holds the bellhousing to the trans proper?
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And a diode, forgot that too, but there is a radio shack and even an electronic supply house not far away.
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Yeah, I got a SHIPPED notice before I even posted that...
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I'm going to attempt this on the output side first, I found an inverting driver that will take the output of the TCU and drive the solenoid directly. http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/25006a.pdf And ohcrap, just realized while I was ordering stuff from Digikey I forgot a power resistor to terminate the TCU output...
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Are you sure the pan hasn't been slightly dimpled or bent-in? The pickup is very close to the pan and folks have had problems from the pan getting pushed in a seemingly minor amount.
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Based on how well the AWD works when supposed to assuming a reversed signal, as subaru has confirmed is used, the Duty C is working perfectly. It has also been confirmed by someone else the 2004 signal is reversed. There is no question.
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Looking at the valve bodies, 2003 vs 2004, no visible differences. There are a few external differences on the bellhousing, though.
