CNY_Dave
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Everything posted by CNY_Dave
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Well, my temp mod is done. Wired up a DPDT center-off switch so I have: - normal connection - transfer solenoid disconnected to give me front-wheel-drive - FWD switch active, which gives me 'locked' AWD. I went by the specs on the driver chip, which said a 30k resistance would keep the open-circuit alert from tripping, wired in a 10k, apparently iot does need to be less than that. I have GND and the sig from the TCU coming up to where I can get to them, so I can add a resistor and see where the cutoff is. I also have a set of voltage measurements to compare against (at some point) for all gears, at idle, mid-throttle, and full-throttle, measured AC and DC.
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Probably leaking into/against the brake booster through the rod seal.
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I have heard discussion about fram making the subie filters. Someone cut a few apart and I *think* the conclusion was the subie frams were built like a sube filter to sube specs.
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Also, to avoid activating a code/flashing AT Temp light, a resistance of something less than 30k ohms needs to be between the solenoid output and ground, the open circuit sensor has a max trip resistance detected of 30k ohms. No power resistor required, and need never be switched out of the circuit.
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A thought occurs to me- if I invert the signal going to the solenoid driver, I may also have to invert the monitoring signal from the driver to the microprocessor. I just noticed something else- the FWD fuse does NOT connect the TCU pin to +12V, it connects it to ground.
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Finding pwr and gnd would be a lot easier if I could ID any of these ICs: Mitsubishi M59550 FP, and M59350 No logo, marked 5223, I don't think it's a MAX5223. The 59350 might be a watchdog timer/power IC. The connections make sense. http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/249323/RENESAS/M59350FP.html
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Evap canister full of fuel?
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OK, some progress. Have my TCU out, have traced the circuits for the Duty C output. Device is a Sanken Electric SI 5151s. Similar to the hitachi device above, but opinout is: 1- GND 2- SIGNAL IN 3- Vo (output) 4- Diag (what the TCU uses to tell if the solenoid circuit is shorted or open) 5- Vs (presumably +12V) SIGNAL IN can be a TTL or CMOS input, I'm thinking of snagging an inverter (will have to measure if these are +5V or 3.3V circuits) and just invert the signal to the driver. This driver can source 1.8A, 1.5W as installed without a heatsink (18W with). I wonder if I can find an inverting driver I can use instead? Other driver devices on the board are 5155s (2.5A) and 5153s (2A but built-in zener). Links I found that led to the info- http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin/view.pl/Library/OBD1CivicIntegraECUs http://wikitest.pgmfi.org/twiki/pub/Library/OBD1CivicIntegraECUs/SI-5151S.pdf http://www.littlediode.com/datasheets/pdf/Datasheets-SI5/SI5155S.PDF http://www.datasheetdir.com/SI-5153S+download
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A light text on dark background theme would be awesome!
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I recall the TCU had a bunch of 5 pin devices on it, which I th9ink are the drivers: HA13705C If this is the case I could pull the input pin (CMOS level stuff) and wire in an inverted signal from an inverter, and the solenoid signal would be inverted.
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You are correct that the '03 signal might not be the '04 signal but inverted. At least when I drive home tonight in the snow I know to put in the FWD fuse, which only for my sube, will indicate 'Four Wheel Drive'.
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I don;t think I need to go beyond my having a little torquebind doing a tight circle with minimal throttle, no AWD when I stomp on it, and perfect lockup with the FWD fuse in place. Also, someone who had measured his '04 confirmed '04 has 'lockup' with +12V fed to the Duty C.
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Heh, I'm not going for 'ideal', I'll settle for 'good enough and nothing gets damaged'. If full lockup with the kitbashed setup isn't sufficient, I'll also implement a 'full lockup' switch. The 2004 signal is a 50HZ signal, at 50% duty cycle it's a symmetric square wave, and the higher the duty cycle the less time it spends at 0V (or just as easy, floating, not driven).
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I am hoping, beyond what I can search here, someone has or has seen a good scope trace of the Duty C signal. In a perfect world, there would be a trace from an '00-'03 and one from an '04, when apparently the signal polarity was changed. Before '04, +12V to the duty C disabled the AWD, '04 and above, +12V fully activates the duty-C and the AWD. What I am hoping is that I can get reasonably close to the proper signal by using a few transistors to 'invert' the signal.
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Its funny, I google that trans code and I only get hits in Germany and Russia.
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Subaru says 'your best bet is to just use another transmission', no info avail on if the change is confined to the valve body or the extension housing. tHE BEST INFO IS THAT NO ecu FLASH CAN FIX IT, AND THE '04 tcu WOULD REQUIRE CHANGING ALL THE OTHER VEHICLE CONTROL MODULES (oops, caps-lock stuck). Looks like I will be either 'inverting' the duty-c signal (although low duty cycle won't neccesarily translate into the proper high-duty-cycle signal), or I'll be fabbing my own manual control unit. John, the new trans has ID TZ1A4ZMFAA-M7, don't have the old trans number with me. The odds of a 4EAT 2004 swap into a 2000-2003 (or vice-versa) is pretty low, so it's not surprising it hasn't been seen as a problem. It clearly is the case though that the duty-c signals are bass-ackwards.
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Well now. Well now, looks like '04 had the reversed functionality for the Duty C solenoid. FWD fuse in place results in the transfer clutch being locked. Ain't this special. This also explains why I was getting what felt like binding while doing small circles at min throttle, and why I sometimes get a 'clunk' from the rear when turning the key off (it's the rear driveshaft 'relaxing'). So, does this mean I need an '04 TCU? An '04 TCU and ECU? Do I need to make a manual duty-cycle control?
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Just check it.
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If it is the flex plate it might be visible through the cover used to access the torque converter bolts. On my H6 the TC is visible from below as well. Usually pumps only fail when someone doesn't seat the converter all the way.
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If you removed the air cleaner cover, if it is not seated properly it can make a variety of odd noises.
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Had mine on my '03 off not long ago so I could modify the wiper switch (stop the wipers from auto-wiping when using the washer). It's the one or 2 screws that go in from the bottom, then a snap or two. The top is harder to get off, not sure if you have to unbolt the column and drop it just a little or not (left mine loose and in place).
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Well, all that measuring and probing and leaving the batt disconnected, no more TCU codes but also no change in the AWD. Since it seems to have a tiny bit of binding in a full-lock turn but no AWD I'm going to guess the clutch pack was abused and is no good, but I still can check the duty C solenoid, somehow.
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Harness checks out OK. 0 ohms (0.1 or so) for each lead between the TCU connector and the connector to the trans. All the other diagnostic branches suggest it's either an intermittent or the TCU, as if a scope or the SSM or an AC voltmeter show no signal, it's ruled an either an intermittent or a bad TCM. Would be funny if the TCM decided to go kaput right when swapping the trans.
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Female pins on B11 to the TCU through the wiring harness is 60-160 kohms (depending on polarity) going to the FVSS input on the TCU, and mega-ohms for the RVSS. So looks like it's a harness-side not trans-side issue.
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RVSS at the trans connector (and the FVSS) ohm out just fine, wonderful. Either it's intermittent or there's a prob in the harness between the connector and the TCU, and the problem was just a coincidence. Joy.