CNY_Dave

The side blocks don't look bad, but the center support is drooping by about an inch. I pulled down on it all, it will pull down a little more, so I don't think it's metal on metal, and therefore is not the source of my pinion-noise (normal noise telegraphed metel-metal to the body). Do you have to pull the header to change the mounts, or just the 1st section after the header?

In have replaced transmissions twice before in my garage, but that was a nice simple '67 pontiac V8 where I was swapping a turbo 400... can you do a 4eat without a trans jack, does a cheap harbor-freight trans jack (that'll fit under a car on jackstands) make it easier enough top warrant the purchase? Weighing swapping my trans vs having the pinion bearings fixed.

On my '03 there is a mechanical switch that tells the wiper controller if the wipers are 'parked', could be a problem with the switch or the wiring from the park switch to the controller. Old cars were easier, they just shorted the motor to ground (switch was in the ground path) if the wipers were not in the 'park' position. A schematic would help determine if it is likely a short or an open.

Maybe it was high-fructose corn syrup? Bad for cars and people, perhaps... It looks like sugar will dissolve into the water dissolved into isopropyl alcohol, though, so a snaky bastard might go that route.

So who has gotten angry with you recently?

Posted a vid of the noise, the persistent rumble is a wheel bearing, pinion noise is the one that comes and goes as I add/reduce throttle.

I've changed out the front fluid for lucas with 50% lucas additive, no change in the noise. Took the crud off the magnet, the flakes here are incredibly thin and might just be tiny particles held together because they are magnetized, no solid pieces at all.

I have suffered through the material-deposition pulsation, and I think it is technically correct (the best kind of correct) to say the primary result is not a warping of the rotor, as the rotor material isn't being bent, but that material is preferentially removed from the softer areas, leaving the hard area where the pad material was deposited higher. Of course since the high-spot/hard-spot gets hotter than the rest of the rotor, there well could be some heat warping from uneven heating. I have heat-warped rotors in the past (on other cars), and it was always at a very 'short wavelength', that is, the ripples were very close together.

Could be every sube you've had has had a bad wheel bearing...

H6, so an auto. Typical pinion bearing whine, disappears when there's no load. Just under 200k miles, fluid has always been at the proper level, always looked clear and smelled nice and fresh, was even changed a few times. No goop is going to cure it, but I'd like to see how long I can put off major trans work.

So if the front diff pinion bearings are getting noisy, any thoughts on if there is any lube or additive choice that can stretch out the time to repair?

I'd hate 'passive locking', would drive me nuts. The left rear door was open at the time, and I was leaning into the car. If it was RF looking like the fob, the car would have chirped as normal when hitting the fob. It's a weird one, alright.

What is passive locking?

OK, when I fly my RC planes and it's cold enough out that I roll up the windows on the sube I always put the keys on the roof- just in case. Today, keys on the roof, one back door opened, putting something in the car, I hear *click*. Uh-huh- the doors just locked. I did notice and unlocked them manually, but had I not, and had I left the keys in the ignition, it would have been a looong walk to a phone. It was not initiated by the fob, as there was no 'beep', just the sound of the lock motors. All I can think of is I just happened to touch the outer skin of the door at that moment and sent a static charge into the panel, but that seems unlikely. I was standing on damp grass at the time. Thoughts?

It should be easy to figure out if the fuel is getting cut, or the spark. Fuel pressure gauge available? Fuel pump audible?

3 screws on the bottom half-shell and the top shell pulls up to access the switch.

Was some carbon causing it to stick open a tiny bit? Do those have a seat insert?

Don't know, but you can also check the heater hoses are getting hot.

Yep, mine from the dealer said 'Holt's' right on the side...

My beaner has a bit over 193k, recently showed some damp/wet green spooge at the head gasket, but the edges of the head gaskets have been greenish from coolant for probably 40k miles. The problem with magic additives is when they don't work, some goober always says 'well then maybe 4 will work!'.

The orig info was here http://offroadingsubarus.com/spraythenwipe.html but that is for a right-drive vehicle, I was able to use the photo there to figure out what to do on my US spec wiper switch. Remove the wiper switch from the steering column, and then remove the plastic cover over the circuit board (snaps on with 2 clips) Cut the track that leaves the upper-right corner of the resistor that says "183" then goes under the one that says "133", you could also remove the resistor, but cutting the track is easier, I think. The longer version where this gets figured out- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=136867

I thought it might be useful to have a place to note problems strongly suspected to be caused by the subaru coolant additive, a.k.a Holt's RadWeld. I know what the goop looks like because I'm trying it out in my H6 (external head gasket coolant weep), but the problem was on my wife's 2005 Forester, which I assume had the magic goo added by the dealer after it had its head gaskets replaced (external oil leak). Anyway, on a trip the rad was not holding pressure, too much coolant was being sent to the overflow reservoir, and it was not sucking coolant back up from the overflow. Problem was the cap. Checked the cap under magnification, looks like some of the magic goo collected on the metal plate that seals under pressure and allows the coolant to be sucked back in.

Yes, the track that leaves the upper-right corner of the resistor that says "183" then goes under the one that says "133", you could also remove the resistor, but cutting the track is easier, I think.

I can't be the only one that loves this mod- it's already come in handy.

I just found the pic on this site to show where my leak is, if you were asking me.