CNY_Dave

Looks like a chime.

You need to check all the bushing and ball/tie-rod joints post-haste, I'd say. Wheel bearings, too.

Well, I just ordered 2 rebuilt from EMPI via auto parts warehouse, a bit over 75 beans including shipping and no core charge. That's about what they are at NAPA (my NAPA axle has been holding up so far), so what-the-hey, I'll try 'em. I really couldn't cost-justify spending about double for a unit from MWE or Raxles.

Speaking to the generic case, any worn suspension component can cause a clunk as it shifts from one location on its bushing/pivot to another, including wheel bearings. First thing to check with any clunking is all the ball joints, inner and outer tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, control-arm bushings, sway-bar bushings and end-links, and strut bearings.

Naw, when you have it tightened down on the axle you whack it with a hammer and the force transfers through the screw without the screw moving. Tighten, hammer, tighten, hammer etc until it pushes out just with tightening the screw. Also, with a lot of preload all the bits will deflect and stretch and the axle can move a bit and actually keep tight against the axle.

Curious- were some of those cars equipped with VDC? The U-joints tend to go quicker on those since the rear wheels do most of the work (45/55 normal split).

On my '03 the magic green connector does cycle the fans.

It would make sense the symptoms of that bearing being bad/loose would mimic a bad DOJ.

If the radiator cap and overflow hose are working properly it can't pull a vacuum, but if you are starting cold with rad full and fluid in the overflow, and then the overflow is empty, something is not right elsewhere.

The big axle nut in the center? Whoever last had their hands on it goofed, it should never come loose! I wonder if the wheel bearing was loose because of that or if the noise was the axle slapping around or in/out. The wheel bearing on that side might or might not be OK, and might fail prematurely. Or maybe not.

It's the side bearing for the front diff, the one that carries the stub axle, I think.

Never heard of one of those going, maybe a previous owner drove with a very bad DOJ for a looong time...

The TPS is a potentiometer where a wiper rubs along a resistive strip. Exercising the wiper can clear crud out of the way or get the wiper to 'wipe' along a slightly different path. So pumping the gas could possibly affect how a bad TPS works.

Tightened the bolt on the disk? Do you know which one he meant?

Someone is testing out the 2004 replacement fuel-filter that comes with a cap. The cap may or may not fit. Just that cap may be available at the dealer.

Yes, this is exactly what mine did.

Front or rear pinion or trans bearing, maybe the driveshaft carrier bearing. What is the pitch of the noise?

I think adding a bit of metal on the outside of the cap would reinforce it enough to keep it from cracking again, I've done crazier and had it work. Having a micro-torch helps. If that other filter-plus-cap cap works for 35 bucks (or if the 04+ cap is avail from the dealer) that's a good bit easier.

You know, those broken caps could probably be brazed or silver-soldered just fine. I'll do it if someone wants to send me a lid for which they'd be the guinea pig.

If the cap fits without the filter, just use the cap...

Tie rod end? Ball joint? Transmission bushing? Is it a vibration, or a knocking? Were the wheel bearings checked? When you speed up does it speed up with the speed of the wheels or about 4 times as fast? The axle could be shot and seem tight when the car is up on the lift. Make sure it gets checked with the weight on the wheels.

The '04 part does look similar to the pic in this thread: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/26419-2001-subaru-just-shut-down.html

This topic has seen a resurgence at http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-service-seattlesubaru-fuel-filters-explained/#comment-121636 I'm 'dave', who will fess up as 'phil'?

I isolated the big pic:

Are they putting something weird in the gas? Does E10 or E15 (added as an oxygenator) leave too much O2 in the exhaust?