CNY_Dave

Napa 6203-2rsj is one that fits. Unbolt the pulley and the bearing is lightly pressed into the back of the bearing. The tensioner pulley has a nut behind it that falls off (it fits in a hex recess so you don't have to put a wrench on it). Dave

Some 2001's had to have the chain guides replaced early, making the '01 a little less desirable. Unless you are after the trim package or do a lot of highway miles, I wouldn't say chase an H6, but if you do a lot of freeway/over 60 driving it's a useful upgrade. Mine sees almost 100mi a day, and it cruises a bit over 80 still under 3k rpm. Smooth, baby! Dave

Hmmm, if it needs to fit tight against the end of the crank and the face of the sprocket, but could only fit tight against one, I'd pick the sprocket. Filing the nose of the crank might move it back far enough you don't get a good tight (face) fit. If the face of the sprocket is munged, I'd def. get a new sprocket. Dave

Is the little switch on the top of the steering column 'on'? Dave

An ammeter that uses a very low resistance resistor is pretty easy to install if anyone really prefers an ammeter (it's a voltmeter that goes across a low-value series resistor). Dave

How many tons of force can you get out of a screw-type hub tamer or bearing installer? My 20T press felt pretty close to the limit on my front wheel bearing job. Dave

There are steps in the press process where you have to be very careful about what is actually taking the strain. Also, if you put any weight on the wheel bearing before torquing the axle nut fully, that can damage the bearings/races. Dave

Sounds it. Jack the fronts up, chock the rears/ebrake, put it in neutral, spin each front while listening/holding the spring. I had a bad wheel bearing that was not loose but was noisy- could not spin it fast enough by hand to hear it, but the 'noise' could be felt in the spring. Dave

Or you need to have a lot of old bearing races and metal bits around to stack up... There are indeed a few points in the process where you need to be sure about what's taking the strain. Dave

If they want to put on a cat because the bolt flange is rusted, there is a slip-on repair flange that works just as well. Dave

This can be the converter-pipe donut starting to let go. System heats up, things expand, small leak seals up. Dave

If there's a lot of highway driving involved the 6 is nice for that. Dave

Mine's an H6. Dave

It's a coolant pipe, not an oil pipe (still needs fixed, just less impact if it leaks). All the oil stays in the base. Dave

I haven't seen that type before. Available where? Dave

I had a situation like that but quite a bit worse- I stuffed a silver metal exhaust donut into the gap and slathered it with that hardening exhaust-repair goo (which is actually contains the stuff they put into the clunkers to ruin the engines). A softer composition exhaust donut would probably not even need the goo. If the flanges are toasted by the time you have to re-do this, those flange savers are like magic. Dave

Napa has 'em, 6203-2rsj, easy-peasy to put 'em in. Tensioner pulley has a nut that likes to fall out in the back when you pull the bolt. Dave

I would say the global misfires and the lack of good ground are consistent with it being able to idle but not take any throttle. Tracking down a bad/missing ground connection without a wiring diagram will be tough- you are going to have to check all the grounding points that are anywhere near the injector loom, and work backwards into the loom until you find the bad spot. The problem with the ground (if this is the problem) is likely right at the grounding point, very close to it, or where the harness gets chafed/pinched by something. And, you really need to get a working fuel pressure gauge on it- there could still be a problem there. Dave

The 'trick' is usually applied to the rear sensor only, to get rid of a real or bogus 'cat efficiency' code. Dave

Could even be a bad wheel bearing pushing the pad back into the caliper, this one's wide open. What the pedal did is key, as mentioned. Dave

Carb cleaner dries about as residue-free as brake cleaner, and if you're cleaning just unpainted metal parts, that's about all that matters. But as said, carb cleaner is worse for you and might chew the heck out of rubber, plastic, paint, skin, maybe pads and shoes, and sure as hell will wreck your eyes. Dave

Would ir start if you gave it a little throttle? Dave

Fuel pump could be giving flow with no real pressure, or pressure with no real flow. Really need a gauge on the rail while cranking. I thought on some subies, if the MAP/MAF went bad it might not run at all, but would run in limp mode if it was disconnected. Also, is tapping the cam (crank?) sensor one of the tricks? Dave

If you had time with a bit of clay and the right acid you could dissolve the bolt right out of there... I think there's even a way to speed the process with a bit of electricity. Dave

Yep, I'm just maxxing my H6 knowledge. Used is always a crapshoot. Dave