CNY_Dave

A little surfing and OK, I see what a hub tamer is. That'd be a neat tool to make, except for all the little collars. I used this wheel bearing as an excuse to buy a press, so I can't go buy one of these for $250-500, the bright side is I do see upcoming uses for the press. It's the age old question of buy a specialized tool that will do one thing (but save some work) or buy a generic tool that'll do more. If I was running a shop I would def. go for the hub tamer. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00994256000P?vName=Tools&cName=MechanicsTools&sName=Automotive%20Specialty%20Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a http://www.neweggmall.com/Product/2001489280/product.html?cm_mmc=PCE-GoogleSearch-_-Hardware-_-Hand%20Tools-_-2001489280 http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3531.html Here's one in use: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1996133 The key is that big black C shaped thing which holds the screw in place (but letting it turn) while the nut forces the hub out of the assembly. Except for the hub part, you'd just do everything backwards (facing in) from the way it's done on that honda. Dave

Nope, no info. Also see reply on the other thread... Dave

I have no idea what a hub-tamer is, and I'll definitely pre-arm myself as much as possible. Email sent. Dave

Not necessarily a lesson, although I'm pretty good at the mechanic thing, but definitely wanting to give anyone who's reluctant to pick up a wrench a chance to see what they could do. Subie wheel bearings go out with enough regularity that I figured someone might benefit. Dave

Damn, you didn't think up any of those CDO's or CDS's, did you? Dave

Just wondering if there'd be interest in anyone who'd be planning on doing the job that would want to see it done (heh, hopefully done). I'm near Cortland NY Dave

I'm going to be working off the general instructions someone posted a link to, the instructions were over on nasioc. That and a download of the service manual from that russian site... Dave

The goodies have been delivered, can't wait to get home to see what I can squish with a 20 ton press! Dave

Technically, any hose that goes into the intake before the throttle plates is not a vacuum hose. This moment of pedantry brought to you by maxwell house. Maxwell house in the morning, get up! Those nits ain't gonna pick themselves... Dave

There are definitely a few conditions where ABS is a genuine liability. One is offroading, another is the way on a steep downhill some ABS systems will actually prohibit you from stopping, and another is those conditions where you will actually stop much faster if you lock up the wheels as compared to ABS braking or threshold braking. In most cases ABS is a very useful tool. There is a goose walking around here that owes its continued existence to it, one rainy night around here. Dave

The fuse method maintains plausible deniability, as long as the god-rotting computer doesn't keep track of how long the warning light has been lit. Dave

The potential downside (I have never heard of this actually happening) could be a) your insurance refusing to pay a claim if they found out you had the switch, regardless of switch position at the time of an accident another individual/insurance company suing you if they found out you had the switch, regardless of switch position at the time of an accident Just tossing that out for consideration. Dave

From the motorcycle world, I've heard that today's fuel and engine mappings don't leave a plug nearly as brown as they used to. Dave

It's on its way. Open a big jar and hold it up (open) at about 3:30. Dave

I replaced the OEM tire air with air produced from a special device I bought that allows me to put my own air in the tire. Since the factory uses horribly polluted air and I filled them with country-air they'll last longer and I got 13% better mileage. If you guys hurry I can get you a great group buy on some country-air. Dave

Just so long as the answer is "Yes". (the question being, 'did I replace the correct one?) Dave

I would have sworn I left '3 stooges style replies' unchecked, hehe. Yeah, I realize I probably only have one bad one, I'm just surprised that the bearing goes 'quiet' when more heavily loaded. I surmise that when turning right, although the left bearing is more heavily loaded overall, the 'contact patch' in the bearing (so to speak) moves to a less-damaged area. Dave

There was almost no temp difference with a borrowed IR thermometer. One or 2 degrees at most either way, depending on which way the wind blew on the drive. All the bearings are still tight. Did the spin-and-feel-the-spring, and the LEFT one makes significantly more vibration than the RIGHT one. But the noise disappears completely when turning RIGHT, which is counter-intuitive if the LEFT bearing is failing. In a RIGHT turn the LEFT bearing is more heavily loaded, so I would expect the noise to be worse when the bad bearing is more heavily loaded. The noise disappears whenever I turn RIGHT, and gets worse or stays the same when turning LEFT. Weird. Unless both are bad, one manifests as a vibration that is not noticeable when driving, and the other manifests as a classic wheel bearing noise? Dave

I had a ford ranger 4wd pickup that would eat a front wheel bearing with almost no symptoms, except a loud 'clunk' when it shifted from tilting left to tilting right. The wheel bearing arrangement was very similar (2 identical bearings very close to each other), although it went together very differently. Dave

Budget's been maxed out (as it should be!), I tested the temps (with the back of my hand) on the wheels around the lug nuts after a lengthy drive last night and all were cool, with both fronts slightly warmer than both rears. One of those IR non-contact jobbies has been on 'the list' for awhile. Dave

Yeah, the srping should make a great resonator, that was an awesome idea. I was thinking I'd have to go the homemede mechanics stethescope route, but grabbing the spring would be a lot easier. Thanks. Dave

Hopefully one that does not get applied to subies often is :Flame: :Flame:FUBAR:Flame: :Flame: Dave

Just from the grease pushing against all the other grease, i.e. friction? Anyway, just ordered a bunch of harbor-freight goodies for the task, such as: 20 ton press (yeah, the 12 ton would be enough, but it wasn't *that* much more, and the A-frame one looks cool- and it's best to derate HF tools anyway) 3/4-inch breaker bar with a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer bearing separator/press support and some bearing/seal tools that I've done without for awhile. Still need to get the 32mm/1.25-inch socket for the axle nut. Saw a past thread about how much grease is (or isn't) in the replacement bearings, wonder how that will end up. Dave

I've pondered this, and have checked in the past, with no noticeable temp difference. I am assembling the tools to do the job (I've wanted a press for a long time, heh, harbor freight here I come), and after they arrive I'll do the job as soon as I can determine which bearing it is. Dave

Yeah, but it's been noisy for so freakin' long, part of me wants to know how long it'll go... Dave