CNY_Dave

Did someone sneak the FWD fuse in on you? Nipper et al, are there failure modes where the TCU will recognize there is a problem and energize the solenoid, similar to putting in the FWD fuse? Dave

In any reasonable networked system, if non-critical parts of the system are missing it should just chug along without them. I mean, if the computer expects to see something on the CAN bus that's not required for engine control, it should just ignore the error, more or less. Of course everything down to the ignition key is probably networked... http://www.vector.com/vi_controller_area_network_en,,223.html?gclid=CNSurfuBwZgCFQu-GgodiiGubQ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Controller_Area_Network I'd say the barrier to entry for fiddling around is a bit higher, but probably the potential for doing cool stuff is also greater. Dave

They look worth a shot, but a quick check and I didn't see anyone in the US that carries 'em. OK, I only checked tirerack, but hey, if they don't have em.... Dave

I have heard of other oddball H6 behavior caused by the TPS. Dave

Especially so since the engine twists in the opposite direction in reverse. Dave

Fortunately, not much underhood maint. required, it is indeed tight. By 100Kmiles, I'd def. replace the serpentine belt idler pulley bearings. Its been found they go soon after 100K, and they are about $5 each if you put new bearings in the factory pulley assemblies. Dave

I don't think there's much or any risk of that, the airflow is going to outweigh the fuel flow, you just need to remember to keep your foot down until its really running (but don't over-rev it). Dave

Hey, just noticed those 203-FF bearings are the right size (did you have the 6203 cross note on there before?), those should work. Is there anything besides '6203' on the bearing itself? Wondering about the manufacturer. Dave

The 6204 bearings are a different size- They are 47, 20, 14mm as opposed to 40, 17, 12. Since it won't fit you should change the part where you say "this part number, 6204-2RSJ, is very close to 6203-2rsj in the 'h6 idler bearing thread'." but instead stick in the sizes I mentioned since it will fit something. Not sure what the sizes are on the others. If you google the part numbers you will turn up what vehicles they fit, most likely. For example, if you google the 6203- number, it comes up on mazda forums. Dave

If that's the case there is a flavor of loctite made just for that. But, if there are no signs that the pulley has been moving around on the bearing, that might not be a problem. These bearings do spin pretty quick- are these pulleys 1/2 the size of the crank pulley? 1/3? 1/4? Lets say they are 1/3 the size, at 3000rpm these would be spinning along at 9000rpm, not much for a bearing rated for 24000rpm, but if a bearing rated for 12000rpm was used that's 75% of rated load at cruising speed. At 6000rpm the bearing would be spinning at 18000rpm, and there are SKF bearings in this size for which that would be overspec (unless the #s in the chart do not mean what I think they do...). So maybe a subie design engineer got sloppy and spec'd bearings with too low an RPM rating? http://www.skf.com/skf/productcatalogue/Forwarder?newlink=&action=search&lang=en&prodid=1050010203 Maybe someone can read us off the exact info off the bearing and we can see what the specs are? (hint hint byguessandbygolly, we aren't done withya yet!) Dave

By the way, cranking with the throttle floored clears an EFI engine every bit as good as on a car with a carburetor, even though the injectors are shooting a bit of gas in. If it won't start and you suspect its flooded, floor the gas and crank the engine, and as it catches let off the gas just enough to keep the revs at about 2000 rpm as it clears out. Dave

I'm doing my changes at about 5000miles, using castrol 5W-30, and (of course) a subaru filter. As long as the dealer doesn't go over to the cardboard-internals filter, anyway. The oil looks pretty dark coming out, but then again it starts looking pretty dark pretty quick after a change. Dark doesn't necessarily indicate the oil is due for a change, recc. interval is 7500 which seems a bit high to me. I do about 100mi/day so changing at 3kmiles would be pretty darn quick. Bought mine with 55Kmiles in Oct. 07, I have a bit over 90K on it now. Dave

I believe you can get them from NAPA, walk in or their online store. There are probably dozens of outfits that will get them to you over the web or by phone, as long as the bearing is not from china it will probably be of good quality. Some chinese bearings *may* be good, but you never know. Do not know if the Napa bearings are SKF, timken, chinese, etc... BTW the '6203' designator means its: outside diameter: 40mm inside diameter: 17mm thickness: 12mm other bearings will work as long as they're sealed and are '6203' bearings. MSC has a "6203-rsjem" that I believe will work. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=3441751&PMT4NO=56236298 6203-2RSL is a double-sealed bearing. Do the factory bearings have a seal on one side or both? Dave

They run best on premium but don't need it. I get about 25 or so in the winter, just under 27 otherwise, mostly highway. Dave

I have seen 2 listings that the bearing alone that will fit is " 6203-2rsj " (generic bearing designation) Of course, the other hardware has to be in good shape and you have to have (or be able to fab) a bearing puller to swap out the bearing. A quick google shows that you can get it at napa with that part number. Note that this info is pretty reliable, probably, but I haven't swapped mine out yet. +90K, so I'm going to do it before too long, I think. Dave

Unfortunately more users on trails (due to fewer trails) accelerates trail wear, which the greens then use as an excuse to close the trails. All OHV users face a superbly funded, superbly organized, politically savvy enemy with senators and crongresscritters bought and paid for. Dave

Sad time to be a wheeler, worse time to be the guy on the dirt bike. I expect a universal OHV ban within 5 years. Everywhere. No legal areas. (not that there are legal public lands in NYS...) Dave

VDC is great for someone who doesn't have a lot of car-handling skills and can benefit from 'the hand of god' reaching down and straightening the car out. Even for an experienced driver it can be seen as another layer of protection, but probably keeps the car from being 'as fun' to drive. Given 2 cars exactly the same, but one without VDC and the other with (with a VDC OFF button) I'd pick the one with VDC if the price was close. For my wife who's not very confident in the snow I'd pick VDC every time. I also don't feel much need for VDC, but I imagine there are times off-road where it would get you out where the regular 4eat would just leave you spinning 2 tires. Of course better AWD/4wd just lets you keep going deeper in until you get stuck better... My '03 LL bean H6 has no VDC, but it only stops when its high-centered or ultra-slick, ultra-slick meaning you can't start on the hill and need a tiny bit of run-up. With the extra torque of the H6 putting it in "2" is an especially powerful weapon in the snow. Enough power to move pretty good, torque is reduced just enough that there's usually no spinning. Dave

I'm in the 'theoretically you could see an increase because the clutches will never drag against each other but realistically you won't be able to tell no matter how close you look' camp, as long as the tires are in spec, anyway. Dave

The fact that you had such a difference in treadwear means you've been flirting with torquebind for a while. Hopefully, you continue without problems. Dave

The tire size difference allowable is the largest tire must be within 1/4 of an inch in circumference of the smallest tire. Dave

That would have made all the difference- I thought you were being a pissy little you-know-what, turns out you're one of us, you poor bastard... Dave

I recall seeing that if a trans has been maintained a flush is safe, but if its the 1st maintenance a trans sees ever, that's when a flush is deadly. Is that the conventional wisdom on these critters? Bought mine with 55K, had all the dealer service records (incl. trans service records), had the trans flushed at the dealer at about 60-65K, I'm up at +85k at the moment. Dave

What *should* happen is the ABS would only allow a tiny bit of braking power to the wheels (that's what it is in the aggregate, on a small time scale its a lot of surging as mentioned earlier). On ice, I would expect: 1) (maybe) below some minimum threshold of traction, the ABS just can't cope and the 'minimum' amount it can apply the brakes is enough to lock 'em up (and once locked up, the ABS would indeed allow them to stay locked) 2) if its really slippery, brakes on or brakes off, there may not be enough traction for the front wheels to steer at all. and/or 3) On ice, with the ABS working exactly as its supposed to, there was so little braking traction available that the max braking effort the ABS could apply was basically bupkis, zip, zilch, nada. Dave

I found it humourous, and appreciated the humor, just didn't feel it needed a comment (it was a small joke that could stand on its own). Dave