robm

With a 2" lift, and 2" more room in the back to sleep in, it's great MPG would make it better than a Loyale. So basically, Subaru still hasn't managed to build as good a vehicle as the one they stopped making in 1994. Not that anyone else has, either!

Don't change the head gaskets unless they are leaking. Most people find that front timing belt covers can be left off without any problems. I use only the centre one as it is not too hard to remove, and covers the lowest, most vulnerable bits of the system. You are checking the timing with the green connectors together, I hope?

Maybe the cable is partially pulled out? Check that it is properly screwed in at both ends. Can't hurt.

Mine has given me grief in the cold, but that was really COLD, like - 30 deg. C. It would hit the peg (160 km/h) while driving at 30 km/h for a few blocks, until it warmed up a bit, then it was OK. I notice it is kind of sluggish around 100 km/h, which sucks, as it means I don't really know how fast I am going. I notice the tach shows more variation than the speedo, and I am pretty sure the tach is accurate. Greasing the cables is possible, but not recommended, as the grease can migrate up the cable into the speedo, where it is not a good thing to have.

My core is leaking, and now bypassed. Here is an update on the current availability of heater cores in Canada. No Canadian aftermarket parts house carries them, neither does Rock Auto. The dealer wants $690! And may not be able to get it in the end. The wrecker wants $50, but that is if I pull it. (And I am far away from an adequate supply of tools to get the job done. And my tools are far away from an adequate supply of Subarus in the wrecker.)

A battery warmer is also a good idea. If you get a battery blanket, block heater, and sump heater, your car will start just like it was summer. I find I need the block heater in mine plugged in at -10 deg. C, about 15 deg. F. It makes a huge difference. The car is much happier. I wish I had the sump heater, too.

I had a similar problem with axles last spring. First, I got a 25 spline axle, and didn't realize it was the wrong one until I had it in the knuckle. It had a new outer CV joint made by NTN. It went into the axle, but it was a struggle. It really didn't want to come out, and I wound up destroying it. The only way to start it moving was with repeated blows from a steel hammer, which did the threads no good at all. Blocks of wood to protect the threads just turned into splinters. I wound up keeping that one, no way I could take it back in that state. I got another rebuilt axle, with a new outer CV joint, again made by NTN. I could not get the axle through the knuckle, no matter what I did. Wound up destroying the outer bearing, and the inner bearing came out with the axle. I took the whole mess back to NAPA, and told them I wanted an axle that fit, and my bearing back. They took it to the shop next door, and apparently it was a right bear to get the bearing off, even with a press! They had no problem at all with the replacement, as it was obvious something was terribly wrong with that axle. The next axle had a nice slip fit, it went back together in minutes, the way it is supposed to work. It did not have an NTN CV joint. The bearings went in nicely, too. Too bad this axle now has a bad inner joint. I am not looking forward to fighting with this thing again. So far, I am 2 for 2 with out-of-spec CV joints made by NTN. This is surprising, as normally, NTN makes top quality stuff. Has anyone else noticed a similar trend with NTN CV joints? Next time I buy an axle, I am taking an old bearing with me. If the bearing won't go on the axle right in the store, I am not accepting it. And if the CV joint is made by NTN, I will be even more careful to make sure it fits before I take it home.

Sorry, anything over about 60% efficiency is not physically possible. Check out Carnot Efficiency on the internet. Real engines are less efficient. If you are getting 45%, you are probably maxed out.

This double pulley is very common on Loyales in Canada, especially if there is no AC. I suspect that the double pulley is used because the geometry of the belts is such that there isn't much "wrap" around the waterpump or main pulleys. The more wrap, the more power can be transferred. If there isn't enough wrap, the belt could slip when trying to transfer maximum power. A single belt works fine at normal speeds, if you go easy on it. I know, as I blew a belt one night, and made it home just fine (100 km @ 100 km/h). It probably wouldn't slip until you try to turn hard (max. load on power steering), with the engine (and waterpump) at maximum speed (max. load on water pump), with all the lights, fans, rear defogger on and the stereo set to 11 (max load on alternator). A single belt may have a shorter life span in general, and given the sensitivity of these engines to cooling system problems, losing a single belt could be bad news, as well as a PITA. Two belts may be belt and suspenders overkill, and it may never give you any trouble to run a single belt, but my preference would be to get the dual pulley alternator and 2 new belts. Subaru did just about everything else on these cars for a good reason (with the exception of the EA82 timing belts!). The pulleys are pressed on, and a pain to get off at home. Trade it in for the right one. Another tip: when you get new belts, make sure they are the same make, not just the equivalent part number. There is enough difference between manufacturers that one belt can be a good bit looser than the other. This is what caused me to lose that belt on a dark, wet night far from home...

Regulator?

I only leave off the front covers, the backs are still on, so the timing marks are visible. (And porcupines LOVE plywood. They seem to go after the glue.)

I got a Bosch rebuilt alternator a few years ago. It works OK. I think Canadian Tire has them? IT was $130, cheapest in Lower Mainland, from Burnaby Autoparts. Try phoning around, CT, NAPA, do you have Lordco on the Island? Sometimes the independents are cheaper, and give better service than the big chains. If there is a automotive electrical specialist in the area, they may give the best service. Yellow pages are great for finding parts locally, better than the internet.

The only story ever related on this forum that had a problem with running without covers stuffed his engine so full of snow the belts jumped. His sump guard wasn't installed.... You don't worry about snow in Central America very much, do you? And you do keep your sump guard in place, to fend off sticks and rocks and such? Porcupines will eat anything rubber under the hood of a car. Hoses, belts, power steering hoses, electrical, etc. They would probably eat the covers, too. If they go after your car, timing belts will be the cheap, easy part to fix. Do you have porcupines in the neighbourhood? Timing belts are good for 55,000 miles or 90,000 km. Bottom line, don't worry about the covers, and you probably have lots of life left in those 2 year old belts.

From the track of the thrown grease, it was leaking out from under the boot. The boot itself is in perfect shape, no pinholes. I clipped the clamp, pulled back the boot, filled the joint with moly grease, and put on a new, no-tool type clamp. It still seems a bit loose to me, so I am keeping a gear-type hose clamp handy in case it starts to spew grease again. It seems like the boot won't fit into the groove in the joint, so it moves around on the joint and may not seal well.

The boot is not torn, but heat from the cat caused the DOJ to spew grease, even after putting in a make-shift heat shield. When it vibrates (currently, it is OK), it is only on the throttle that it happens: accelerating, or steady state at highway speed. It goes away with my foot off the gas. There were no apparent problems with the axle when the car was jacked up and everything shaken and moved, as Nipper suggested. Tie rod ends seem OK. I guess I will have to peel back the boot and fill it with grease, then replace the clamp. Messy job! Any tips on installing a better heat shield? The cat is a used one, installed back in the spring when a rock ripped out the old one, along with mangling the tranny crossmember. The entire front half of the exhaust system was replaced, from the exhaust ports to the flange downstream of the cat, but it didn't come with the shield. Right now, I have some sheet metal jammed between the cat and the frame, but it doesn't seem to work very well. There is a good air gap between the cat and the metal, so I don't see why it doesn't work. Maybe I should use something shinier.

This one has been abused. It is low on grease.

I tried shaking the axle, but with the wheels on the ground. Both shook about the same. I will try again, with more room to crawl under. I weill also look a the tierod ends.

On a long road trip this past weekend, the car started to vibrate strangely. Front end, feel it through the steering and the rest of the car. I have had a few problems with the passenger side axle, first finding a replacement that fit, then it lost a lot of grease due to a missing heat shield on the cat. So I figured it might be the DOJ going west due to a lack of grease. However, when I checked it, it was just as tight as the driver side, and just as hot, too. The vibration went away, but I don't trust it. I have another long trip coming up, so I don't want to risk it. Can bad DOJ's act this way, with the vibration coming and going? Any good way to tell it is bad without waiting for it to fail completely? Vehicle is a 1993 5sp 4WD Loyale.

It might not be running lean continuously, just under transient conditions as you accelerate, WOT, from low RPM. It won't show on the plugs. Water injection helps, too. I have a bike (Yamaha SR500) that used to rattle like a can of dimes unless it was raining, even on Chevron 94 octane. But you won't be getting that sort of weather for a while, it sounds like. The MAF is the only device I can think of that will cause it to run lean on a transient, as it won't respond as fast if it is dirty. A couple squirts with the can of brake cleaner won't hurt. If you did try to clean the carbon off the piston tops, and wound up with some bits that stick out and form hotspots, rather than a nice, even layer, this could give you trouble. This is where the magic "tune-up in a can" products come in, they are reputed to knock the crud out.

This sure sounds like ping. High load, low RPM is when it is most likely to happen. Try knocking back the timing 2 deg, or put in high octane gas. (Chevron used to be the best in the Vancouver area, according to the guy that ran the knock test engine at the refinery I worked at many years ago.) If that helps, then try to fix it properly. In my experience, these things don't ping even when advanced 2 deg., so there is something wrong somewhere. It might be running lean. Clean the MAF (I know you know how! Thanks again.) Try one of those magic decokers (Seafoam?) that you run through the fuel system. Maybe the injector is a bit iffy? It might be running hot. Where is the temperature gauge when this happens? How is the rad? Clean and tidy, or all corroded and bent fins, full of bugs? Good luck. Rob.

I believe that is the way they work. No key, no power, no fan. You could rewire it to make it work without the key, but then, be careful when working under the hood, pull the battery cable every time.

"Newbie" switch on top of the steering column?

Chances are, you could get the same effect by easing the gas as you hit the button to disengage. Binding between wheels should not be affected by the clutch, other than it applying torque that keeps the gears from sliding in the transmission.

Some thread hijacking here: To nwtech: Chances are, your tires aren't all the same size, front to back. If it goes in and out nicely when not moving, but does this when driving on hard pavement in a straight line, that is what is likely to be. Even normal tire wear will cause this. Rotate your tires, front to back, and it will go away as the tires equalize in size.

Canadian prices are a little higher. NAPA runs about $45 the pair, not sure what grade, but plain unsealed, and Kaman Bearing about $20 each for the good ones, with built-in seals and grease. They were stock at Kaman, even out here in the woods. It is lots easier than I thought to do them.