robm

Check the blower relay. It is probably not working. It is one of the bunch of 4 above the ECU, and is a real pain to get at. I believe it comes on withthe ignition, but it has been a while. You can swap one of the neighbouring relays into its position to test if it is OK.

Could you have a shorted diode causing the drain? Look for AC on the output to check.

I must respectfully disagree with jsyme's ideas on this. 1. Sweden is high latitude, not high altitude. Stock timing.should work fine. 2. Bad plugs and wires should show up under heavy load, not when trying to maintain a low speed in first gear. Changing them is cheap(ish), and can't hurt, but I would not expect this to fix the problem. 3. The same can be said for the fuel filter. Plugged fuel filters typically supply enough fuel for low speed, low load, and only show up when trying to accelerate or go fast, which doesn't seem to be a problem. I do not know much about the MPFI. Could it be a sticky IAC (Idle air control) that causes the stumbling by jumping between too wide open to too closed? No,apparently, MPFI's don't have such things, according to info on USMB. Do a search on this site for MPFI AAV and IAC. It looks like Grossgary has lots of expertise on this system.

I checked for overvoltage. 15 V at 3000+ RPM, so I have a bad regulator. It is not supercritical yet, and I am traveling overseas in about 2 weeks, so I will leave it alone for now. Only short trips around town, I shouldn't wind up with a boiled battery or burn-out bulbs. Maybe I will buy another off Rock Auto just before I leave, so I will have it ready to install when I get back.

It kind of hard to check the diodes directly. Use your mulitmeter on AC volts, measure at the battery when charging. If a diode is bad, then you will see lots of AC, even if you are getting 14 V out of the regulator. Normal AC will be about 50 mV or less.

I didn't think of the regulator being bad. The 14.26 V @ idle is probably a giveaway. I will check the voltage at 2000+ RPM.

Yes, that is the one. The electrical connector fits perfectly. No problem there. The mount is a bit different. It will bolt on, but you will need some new vacuum hose because the old ones are too short to connect to the valve. If you can find one from an old Toyota at the wrecking yard, you are better off, as you won't have to wait to have it mailed to you. I had to get new, as there are no cars of that era left in the autowreckers around here. Oh, and Robm is my handle, "Subaru Nut" is my description.

There is a generic EGR solenoid out of India on Ebay that works. US$21 with shipping. It connects right to the stock connector on the wiring harness. It works fine.

The charge and brake failure lights are glowing at idle. They go out if I rev to 3000 RPM or so, and maybe less if the car is warmed up. This is usually a symptom of the alternator failing. Just to make sure, I cleaned all the battery terminals and clamps, and the ground connections on the engine. Then I measured the output voltage. I am getting 14.62 V on the battery terminals, and the same between the battery + terminal and the engine block. There is no AC on the terminals, so I know the diodes are good. But the charge and brake lights are still glowing. How can this be, if I have full voltage on the terminals?

That is just normal condensation from combustion gases. The filler tube is long, so it gets cooled off, and this condensation occurs.

Another fix is to cut a piece of heavy gasket material to fit into the filler cap, on top of the hard and crunchy rubber seal. A loose one may screw up the PCV system, as air will leak into the filler neck, instead of being drawn from the right place, wherever that is.

Hey, kmpdx, if you get 2 working IAC's, can I buy one?

Check for a bent rim or a blown belt on the tire. If you can move the problem by swapping the rims around, you have it isolated.

I suggest it might be a coolant temperature sensor code. If it is, cheapish and easy to fix. If it is a fuel temp. sensor, a great post on this is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/74419-p0183-fuel-temperature-sensor-a-circuit-high-input/ But I can't see why that would cause it to run poorly until the engine is warm.

How can you tell the ignition timing is correct if it isn't running?

It is 180 deg. on the cam, but that is 360 on the crank. If you have equal compression all around, over 120 PSI, it sounds like the cams are right. Did you move/remove the distributor when you did this?

Whack the starter motor with a screwdriver hammer and see if that helps. If it does, it is the starter. Changing the contacts will fix it, if you can find them. Otherwise, it might be the alternator. Look for AC on the battery terminals when the car is running, as well as 13.5 VDC or more. This test shows it has a bad diode. New ones run about 30 millivolts. Grounds and connections are all good possibilities, and easy to check, clean and reterminate.

Check the oil pump rotates. You might want to reseal it while you are in there. If there is any leak at all, go for it. You may find the oil pump shaft is chewed up. I suspect this caused one of my timing belt failures.

Don't play with the idle setting on the TPS! Chances are the idle air controller is sticky. There are a couple of recent threads on this. I suspect the cold weather has something to do with it. Usually, a CTS problem shows up as poor starting with low cold idle, but it runs well when warm. A sticky IAC often does what you describe. Your alternator problems were probably due to a bad diode pack. If you get anything like that again, try reading the alternator output on AC. If there is a bad diode, you will see lots of AC voltage. If they are good, you might get 30 mV AC. In fact, look at it right now, so you know what it is supposed to look like when working properly,

I think you have it right. Notice that Miles' distributor was pointing a little off #1, slightly towards #3. This make sense, as the distributor actually fires at 20 BTDC, so it may not be exactly lined up at 0 deg. If you didn't remove the distributor, chances are it is good. It certainly isn't 180 deg. out.

The wheel bearing is toast.

The ECU is really good at maintaining the proper idle speed. It can handle extra loads easily, if the IAC is working properly. In fact, it does it so well, I hardly ever add gas to let out the clutch, just ease it out gently then add gas once moving at idle speed in first. The clutch should last forever if treated like this.

Might be a bad plug or plug wire on #2. Just because it makes a spark in air doesn't mean it will work in a cylinder under pressure.

The one closest to the injector body is the EGR. It will be connected to a diaphragm on the back of the manifold. The other one is connected to the charcoal canister.

There is a generic replacement one on Ebay out of India that works. It is like $22 with shipping. Electrically, it plugs right in, but mechanically, it needs new hoses, as the old ones don't quite fit. It takes a while to arrive, but does the job.