robm

The reason is there is an odd number of splines. It can only line up one way. You can't turn it exactly 180 deg., it will have to go 180+ or 180-, to line up the splines, and then the holes won't be aligned. Too bad the new DOJ doesn't have the chamfer. Who sells the Cardone axles in BC, anyway? Rob.

British Columbia IS the rust belt. Salt air, salt on the roads, lots of rain, slush, and snow. Washington State cars may be rust free, but that is not the case a few miles north of the 49th parallel. And the further north, the worse it gets, until about the middle of the province.

I should be more clear: the Canadian parts houses show 2 filters, one underhood and one in the tank. An update: The issue is a minor fuel leak from the tank. Their mechanic is suspicious of the on-tank/in-tank filter. I figure it is more likely to be a hose on the pump assembly or on the vapour separator, or corrosion of the tank itself. Their mechanic also claims there is no access port in the car for the pump assembly, which I find hard to believe. I will have a look next time I go over there, the car is only 200 odd klicks away.... Rob.

Not much of a boat anchor - too light, and the wrong shape!

Endwrench says that early Legacies had only the underhood filter, and the in-tank filter came in about 2006. However, the parts place shows the in-tank filter for 1994 onwards. I suspect this is an "only in Canada" thing. The Canadian parts house show it, but not the US ones. It seems to be part of the fuel pump assembly. Any good way to get at this device? Rob.

Looking at on-line parts, a "Canister Fuel Filter next to Fuel Pump In-Tank" is offered, as well as a black tin can with a couple of pipes sticking out of it. It seems there are 2 on this model. Rob.

My friend's 95 Legacy needs a new fuel filter. Apparently, it is in/under/near the tank, and impossible to get to without dropping the tank? Is this correct, or is there a work-around known only to the elite Subaholics that frequent this forum? Thanks. Rob.

Mine does this at times, too. Mine has a problem with the blower relay, that comes on when the car is running. When it gets hot, it opens up. It is hiding way up inside the dashboard on the left side of the steering wheel, with 2 other little round relays, in a fancy carrier that holds them. The relays are identical. Try swapping one of the others in its place, to see if that fixes it. Don't leave it like that, as the other relays control the headlights. Just pulling mine out of the holder helped a lot, as it stays cooler now. But I really should find one at the wrecker. Good luck. Rob.

Wear is also important. Mine is starting to bind in a straight line because I was lazy and haven't rotated the tires in the last 10,000 miles. That is with all 4 tires the same size, age, manufacturer.

Thanks for the summary. It is starting fine now, although I haven't done anything to it. I HATE intermittent faults! What does the clutch switch do, anyway? According to the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual, it looks like the switch only acts as an input to the ECM. If that was the case, I would expect the starter to turn over with or without the clutch pedal down, just the engine wouldn't start. But that is not the way it works. The clutch has to be on the floor for the starter to turn. Can anyone tell me how it is really wired? Thanks, Rob.

1993 Loyale, 5 speed, 4x4 wagon, 289,000 km. It has become reluctant to start. The symptoms are that it will not turn over when the key is turned in the ignition. Recently I have found that if I turn the key, then stomp the clutch hard and fast, it will turn over. This morning , it wouldn't start then, either. When I stomp the clutch, I can hear a click under the hood. The lights etc. do not get dim. It does seem to be temperature related, somewhat. Worse in the cold (about 40 deg. F today). Possibilities I have thought of: Old/bad battery (Except the voltage does not seem to drop, as shown by the lights staying bright) Funky ckutch switch (except I can hear that click under the hood...) Bad contacts in the starter motor? Ignition switch? (how many contacts must be made to start the engine?) Starter relay contacts? (Is there a starter relay, or only a solenoid and contacts in the starter motor?) Thanks, Rob.

A simpler, cheaper option might be to get new (to you) EA82 calipers, that don't have the totally worn E-brake parts. Get the rest of the e-brake parts at the same time. Rebuild it all, back to near-new condition. The alternative, getting 5 lug parts from an Impreza, would require lots more new (to you) parts, and more work to install. Other than not being able to do handbrake turns, I love the front e-brake. It is the only E-brake I have ever seen that would actually stop the car. When functioning properly, it really is an emergency brake, not just a handbrake good enough to keep the car from rolling away on a slight hill.

No, that is the one and only Mass Air Flow sensor, right next to the air filter. Pay particular attention to the little hole, that actually does the measuring. There are other threads on here about cleaning the MAF. Worth a read. It may not be the problem, but it is worth a try. Rob.

Could it be a dirty MAF sensor? Works fine at steady state, or when airflow is changing relatively slowly, but can't track fast changes in flow when the throttle is cracked? Rob.

With the drop in fuel mileage, it looks like a rich mix is a big part of the problem. Exhaust leaks may allow it to ignite, but there shouldn't be anything there to ignite at all. lt happens when it is cold, but not when it is warm. I suspect a rich mix, with poor vapourization when cold allows lots of fuel into the exhaust. When warm, enough burns in the cylinder that it won't explode. Maybe the choke is set a little too rich? Maybe the carb needs a good overhaul, as one of the emulsion tubes is crudded up so more gas than required is flowing into the venturi? Is the exhaust pipe black and sooty?

Why do so many of those "top 10" have "except for ..." and "too bad about..." in their blurbs? The T100 was way less truck than the standard "small" Toyota truck of the same era, or more precisely, not as much truck for the money. My boss and a coworker bought new trucks at the same time, the boss buying a Chevy heavy-half ton with crew cab and 4WD, and Brad the Toyota 4x4 V6 with crew cab. They started to compare specifications. Payload on a 2WD Chevy was about 1800 lbs, less so much for crew cab, less so much for 4x4, and it included passengers. With 4 seats full, maximum rated load in the bed of the boss's truck was under 1000 lb. The payload on the Toyota was 1500 lb, with no reduction for crew cab or 4 wheel drive, and exclusive of the weight of passengers. It got way better gas mileage, and was far more able off-road, and cost a bit less . And he still owns it. The boss has been through 3 trucks since then. He sells them before they cost him money in repairs, but the Toyota hasn't needed any. No wonder the Japanese engineers didn't want to introduce the T100. What was the point? They were already competing head-to head with full-size pick-ups.

It will definately need a new crush washer when it goes back on. Take off the skid plate. Use visegrips, really tight. Hit them with a hammer. Or a pipewrench and hammer. You may be able to salvage the plug, but it won't be 17 mm across the flats anymore. Is there one of those plugs with a valve for Loyales? I couldn't find one.

That is what happened to me. First drained the battery (short diode), then charged it up, and the shorted diode eventually burnt out. The alternator will still work, but it puts out a whack of AC on top of the normal DC. I figured out mine before the alternator died completely. If the abnormal drain disappears, and you didn't fix anything, look for AC on the battery terminals with the alternator charging (2000 RPM or so).

It could also be a bad diode in the alternator. It isn't fused, so pulling fuses won't find it. Try disconnecting it. Good luck. Rob.

I find that the plug needs more and more torque to seal as the washer gets flattened. Eventually, it won't come off without damage to the drain plug. New washers are cheaper than new plugs. Get a bunch of washers when you get a bunch of filters. I find they last about 2 oil changes before the plug needs too much torque to com eoff easily.

I tried the sheet metal screw trick. I won't try it again. I found the metal in the seal is really hard, and pushed the bit towards the crank. The crank seal surface got chewed slightly. It is a miracle it would still seal, after some filing and emery paper. One of these days, it will get one of those cranksavers that slip on to replace the sealing surface, but it works for now. The seal comes off pretty easily. A pick will do it. It has far less potential for chewing up your crank than a power tool. Rob.

Pretty much the local festivals: Smithers Midsummer, Kispiox, Riverside here in Terrace. Last year, I hit one day of Mission, near Vancouver. Next year, Island Musicfest in Comox is on the books. Maybe Edge of the World on Haida Gwaii? I am a folkie, and I have been going to these so long, I go to see my friends play, not the headliners. On a good day, my friends are the headliners. Mission last year was to see Nathan Rogers, and even there, after a 15 year absence, I still met people I knew in the crowd, and got invited into the sound booth because I knew the sound man from Midsummer. It is a really small, friendly world when you get into this kind of music. Way less than 6 degrees of separation, 4 tops. Even if you don't know anyone on the site, it only takes about 10 minutes and a beer, and maybe a song at the campfire, or help them with their tent. Friends for life. Back on topic: Maybe a coathanger frame, with a wooden base? The wire jams into the rubber seal, the wooden base has a groove to take the window. Still can't open the doors, and probably wouldn't work with power windows: Too much torque, and not enough control to get them into place without smooshing them. Rob. Rob.

Duct tape. Or better, wide masking tape. Just use tape to seal the screen to the open windows. Not elegant, but it works. The alternative is to make a fancy screen that fits the window opening, and is held in place by raising the window slightly. But getting the shape to fit perfectly in any kind of cheaply available, easily worked material would be a royal PITA. Unless you use it for several weeks a year, keep it simple. I presume the car is parked for the duration of the festival? It could be kind of a nuisance otherwise. Access is by the rear door only, which actually improves security. Rob. (who attends way more music festivals than is healthy....)

If you have Canadian Tire, you can find parts. They cost a bit more, they are required a bit less. Normal maintenance stuff is easier or the same to do as North American cars. You will love being able to put the entire sound system into the car, and instruments, and a passenger, and getting to your gigs in a snowstorm. And getting 30 MPG (imperial) on the highway to boot (except in the blizzard). Rob.

He is probably after the bellville washer that sits between the conical washer and the nut. When I needed one, the local Subie dealer had one in a box of junk parts, but that was the only one to be had... The price was right, anyway. Rob.