robm

There is more than one connection between the sensors and the ECU. Clean them all, maybe make sure there is continuity all the way. And it might be time to pull out the CTS and test it properly.

It could be a mechanical problem with the IAC. I have similar problems right now as well. It seems like idle gets better once the car is warm, and I stop for a while. My theory is the IAC is sticky, so it never comes off high idle, until you stop the car and it closes completely (or more so, anyway). Then on restart, it goes to where it should be. I have tried running carb cleaner through mine, and that helped a bit. The fact that you have replaced the IAC already suggests against this, but you could have 2 sticky ones? These things are getting pretty old. A few shots of carb cleaner are worth a try, I think.

21 is the CTS. I would start there, and clean the connector really well. A new one might be in your future, but clean the connector first. Then the IAC. Clean it, too. I have IAC problems, but cold start is not the issue. It starts just fine, but doesn't idle properly as it warms up. Eventually, it starts to behave better, but not like it should.

Sounds like you have the dreaded Tick of Death, or TOD. It is actually benign as far as the engine is concerned, but people have come close to suicide trying to eliminate it, hence the name. It is the lifters. Resealing the oil pump usually works. If that doesn't get it, a new oil pump will. Fix it when you replace the timing belts, since you will be in there anyway.

I would say that 15 minutes is not enough. The car will be barely warmed up. And you will be doing that with full load on the electrical system. Six hours to Anchorage is overkill. An hour in the middle of the day would do it, especially if you get the car warm enough to turn off all the power-sucking accessories, and started with a warm battery. 2 hours would be tons. So consider a Saturday sight seeing trip, there has to be somewhere worth going to around Fairbanks besides Anchorage.

All charging systems are designed to bring the battery back to full charge. That being said, at -47 in Fairbanks, you are running the electrical system really hard: - Hard to start at low temperature - Lights on all/most of the time - Defrost/heater blower on all/most of the time - Rear defogger on all/most of the time - Battery is cold so it is harder to charge. A battery blanket might help, or put the car in a warm shop for a few days to get warm, then take it on a good long run with as little load on the electrical system as possible, and the battery should charge right back up.

It is better to have the mismatches on opposite ends, if you can get them set up just right. With big tires on one end, and small ones on the other, there is guaranteed to be problems in the middle. There are differentials at the ends to take care of mismatch, but not in the middle.

What Naru and DaveT said. Clean all the connectors. Check and clean the grounds. Check the sensors according to the manual. The "cheap" sensor in that lot is the CTS, and it is about $70, so don't just start spending money on it.

All I know about AC is it is an abomination to work around. I believe the green connector is OK, it is only one wire that gets grounded. In order from the top: Defrost Defrost and feet Face (dash vents) Face and feet. Feet only

You should try a leak down test on the good side, too. If you get similar results, you will be certain that the rings are not the source of low compression on 1 & 3, and it will also increase the proof that the blowby is due to worn rings. Is the valve train on 1 & 3 particularly sludgy? Is there a valve lifter or follower that is out of whack?If intake valves are hanging open, there has to be a reason. Maybe a good dose of engine cleaner (MMO or similar) would loosen up the situation?

So it sounds like the fuel pump is not the problem, if you have pressure to the throttle body. Next thing to check, after checking the fuel lines are connected properly, is the fuel injector. Is it getting a signal to open? If not, that opens up a new area of trouble shooting, and it is one where I am lucky enough to have no expertise.

Sounds very much like a fuel pump, although given the history, it could be lots of stuff, now. Plug the green connectors together under the hood, turn on the ignition, but don't start it. Listen for the fuel pump to cycle on and off. Check that the fuel pump solenoid is working. This is really easy to do, should be the first step. Don't forget to unplug the connectors when you are done.

Do the headlights work? How about the daytime running lights?

The headlight relays and fuel pump relay are side by side under the dash. I suspect you have miswired the fuel pump relay to the headlights. Was the harness from another Loyale, or an older model? Is this the Loyale for sale on Craigslist in North Van? Your avatar picture looks similar, but white wagons are common.

Steel wheels are cheap. They are also tough, so if you slide into a curb, there is a bit less chance of damage, and it won't break the bank if you do have to replace a wheel. There is no advantage to aluminum wheels for winter tires, they just get corroded. But if you can get a set for cheap cheap cheap from a friend, use them, over buying new steelies..

Check the ground cable from the battery to the engine. Check all the grounds while you are at it.

Regarding the ignition timing: Since the CPU can't anticipate an event, it can only react, the ignition trigger must occur well before TDC. Then the CPU computes a time delay to fire the spark some time later, that will wind up being at 20 BTDC, or whatever is on the table or calculated. I have always assumed the static, at idle ignition timing was the basepoint that the CPU used to calculate the timing at other RPM's and loads, but I suspect that is not the case, now. Especially since my current Loyale was set to 30 deg, BTDC at idle, and never really exhibited any of the expected signs of too much advance when running at speed.

Make sure your vacuum connections under the hood are all connected, and not leaking.

EA82 is SOHC, so the engine is wider than the EA81. That is probably why the frame rails get in the way.

Great fun, reverse engineering the CPU! A few slight factual errors have crept in: The TRS80 ran a Z80 micro, which was quite different to the Motorola 6800 series. Although a friend of mine used to use Z80's in TRS80 cabinets for embedded control, the Motorola chips were way better suited to these applications The instruction set is just way easier and more logical to use. Although the Loyale has a distributor, spark advance is still controlled by the CPU. There is no mechanical advance mechanism to provide more spark lead with higher RPM, nor is there vacuum advance to reduce spark lead with load. It all comes out of the microprocessor. I am watching this thread with great interest. I have never managed to get my Loyales to ping, no matter what. Even with 30 degrees of static advance, it didn't ping. So I can't help but wonder if there is some gains in fuel consumption to be made by playing with the spark control? I know my Datsun 510s got significantly better fuel consumption with a few extra degrees of static advance, at the cost of rattling like a can full of dimes when climbing hills, so I wonder what the EA82 could do with a remapped ignition?

987687 got something wrong, which is pretty rare for him. The not-quite flat washer goes convex side OUT, towards the nut, not in. Most of them have the word "OUT" stamped on them, so you know, but we don't want this to get confusing.

I don't have it handy, but there should be a section on the Haynes or FSM on setting the brake pedal height. Adjust it, maybe bring it up a bit just to keep the inspector happy, and retry. Take the manual with you during the test. If he still fails it, show him that it meets specs. Measuring travel with the toe of his shoe might be a quick and dirty way to test for a possible problem, but it doesn't beat a ruler and actual factory specifications.

The blower relay is in a bank of 4 under the dash on the driver's side. Kind of above and behind the fuse box. It is a royal PITA to get at. I believe this bank includes the blower relay, fuel pump relay and had light relays.

Makes sense. Driving the car jars the brushes loose. But, another thought: Do the relays on these get flaky, like the ones on the Loyales? Vibration from driving could kick a relay loose, too.

The problem with covers, is the outer ones usually come off in pieces after the first TB change. Kind of hard to put them back on. I like to keep the centre cover. It protects a lot of the spinning bits, especially the ones lowest on the engine, and it goes on and comes off quite easily. The sump guard is an absolute necessity when running without covers.