robm

No. Ping or knock ("valves rattle") gets worse with more advance. Hooking it to the manifold might make it worse, but it won't hurt to try and see. Revving the engine won't tell you how much ported vacuum the disty sees, as it is too transient, and the engine isn't under any load. Not a good test. As I recall, the Holley 5200 is a US version of a Weber, without any ability to tune it properly. I suspect it is running lean and causing the ping. Bigger jets if available, or perhaps the accelerator pump can be adjusted to give a bit more squirt, if it is only a transient thing that disappears as the flow in the carb gets established properly. Start with the stock advance setting (8 deg. ? I am not sure, mine is SPFI), and play with the carb. You might just have to live with it. I have seen worse problems than a bit of ping, with the Holley 5200.

I ran without the circlip on a Toyota for awhile, until I found it lying on the garage floor and put it back on. It ran without for a couple of days. It didn't look like a problem, but who knows what will happen down the road.... What do you mean "it is half size"? Worn out, or broken, or the wrong part? This part isn't exactly rocket science. "Acquire" one from a dead axle at the wrecker. Chances are it will fit close enough to hold the joint together while installing and removing the axle, which is all it is designed to do anyway. Rob.

Put a trailer hitch on it, and get a utility trailer to go with it. Who needs a pickup truck? You can carry ANYTHING a pickup can, for an extra $50 a year in insurance, and you only have to drag all that extra around when you need it.

I am looking for a new rad for my '93 Loyale. Canadian Tire sells them for $276! Ouch! But they also sell a rad for the '88 GL/DL/RX for $135. That is more like it! However, the rads have different part numbers, and looking at their listings for rad hoses, they sell different rad hoses for them. So there must be some difference involved. Does anyone know for sure if the the early rad will fit a later Loyale? (Yes, I Know I could get one mailorder from the States for like $100, but by the time I pay for shipping, brokerage, tax, exchange, and go through the hassle of having my credit card number ripped off by dishonest call centre employees working for the shipping company, I would rather just buy it locally, thank you! But there is no sense in paying an arm and leg for it, if I can get by just paying an arm.) Rob.

He didn't mention a CEL, so that is why I suspect the O2 sensor, since they are famous flor crapping out without setting one. The car will run, just not efficiently. The car won't set any MPG records, that is for sure.

One point: A milky white substance under the oil cap is typical in cold areas. I don't know if Sacramento is cold enough, but this is not necessarily a reason to reject the car, or stress out about head gaskets. Rob.

Yep, CTS will do it too. I thought you tried it already, but a closer read of you post show you haven't looked at it yet. Apparently , the connector gets corroded. Try cleaning it. Lots of posts on here about this device. Good luck.

The Oxygen sensor on the cat controls the mixture. This could be the problem. If you have replaced everything else, try a new O2 sensor. Could try resetting the computer. I can't remember the sequence, do a search. Good luck.

Keeping all the joints lined up enough to transfer any impact to the splines could be a problem. And I am not sure that axles should have any impact applied to the ends, anyway. Proceed with caution. Grease is cheap.

My bet is the passenger side is 1-2 teeth out. It is really easy to goof this up. The belt slips a bit as you muscle it on the sprocket, and it still looks good at some angles.

Slide the real boot back, then beat the crap out of the DOJ to seat the shaft on the splines. Regrease and go. Why not replace the stubshafts with straight ones? More work, but it will be done right. Although it is hard to believe the stubshaft is twisted. Are you sure about that?

I can't see even a stretch to yield bolt stretching the threaded portion. The load is distributed over several threads, so in that part of the bolt, there will be no plastic deformation. The long, unthreaded portion of the shank that acts as a spring is what would deform. That is my eyeball analysis. Anyone out there with a better one, backed up by hard data, strain gauge studies, or whatever? It is a moot point anyway, for Subarus. Where these mythical torque-to-yield bolts used, anyway?

Regarding Zefy's post, about the non-locked diff spinning front wheels on launch - I never had it happen on my AWD Corolla with the open centre diff, wet or dry or a foot of fresh wet snow. And it had enough power, about the same as a turbo EA82. The Loyale, on the other hand, scrabbles like a cat on a hardwood floor in the wet or snow, unless the button is pushed to make it 4WD. So there must be some drive action happening at the rear.

You guys aren't reading very closely. He says it will yield in TORSION, so it TWISTS a bit, it doesn't get any longer. He figures that as long as the torque applied doesn't go any higher, it won't twist any further. The tension produced is still in the elastic range, so it doesn't get any longer permanently. It was my impression , many years ago when I took mechanics of solids, that the yield would be along the "transformed principal axes of the stress". SInce we are combining torsion with tension, the yield would be along some weird angle, depending on the relative values of the two. It wouldn't yield purely in either tension or twist. I suspect the torsional deformation might be higher, and it would be easier to measure, but it still yields slightly in length.. I am not sure this is valid, but I am no expert, It was my impression that torque to yield bolts exhibit permanent, non-elastic deformation. Bolts that do this should not be reused. What does Subaru say about reusing head bolts? Not all head bolts work this way. Do they use torque to yield bolts? If they recommend new ones, case closed. If they don't, don't bother.

Good tools are required. "A poor workman blames his tools", but craftsmen use only the best. A large socket might run you $10, but that will only buy about 10 minutes of a mechanic's time. Pays for itself the first time you use it.

Breaker bar and 3 foot pipe on the handle. Lift on it, don't push down. Your legs can exert more force than your weight. Jumping on it adds impact, which might help, but you lose control. Breaker bar and a hammer? Use antisieze to reassemble, and don't torque it much past specification, just to spec, than a bit further to align the cotter pit hole.

The 15% figure came out of work done years go by Ford. I think I saw it in the IEEE magazine, or the ISA, or maybe SAE. This was an overall improvement, based on the way a car is used in the real world, not on some imaginary test track. It makes sense if you think about it. At speed, most of the energy is being sucked out of the car by aerodynamic and other forms of drag and resistance. The energy stored in the car is only the kinetic energy, mv^2/2. There isn't much of that in a small, light car. Maybe they can do better now, with better technology all around. But I bet it is still close. As an example, the 2005 Civic Hybrid vs the 2005 Civic is 25% better on the "city" rating, and 16% better on the "highway". http://www.epa.gov/fueleconomy/5yearhigh-low.htm When you consider the "highway" test still has a lot of stop and go, it is NOT just steady state on the highway for hours on end, you can see that the improvement may well average out to 15% - depending on how you use the car. You sunracers use regen braking because it doesn't cost anything to implement - just a bit more skull sweat for the programming, and maybe a few more switching transistors to turn the current around. On a purely highway trip, it probably doesn't save a lot of energy, but every little bit helps when racing. If racing around town, or in a stop and go situation, it seems to be good for 25% - if your car's characteristics are similar to the Civic Hybrid.

Maybe new bushings in the shifter? I don't notice that the shift is a terrible long throw on my '93. My old 510's had a terrible long throw, due to sloppy bushings. Third was found by pushing up and to the right, and flicking the shift knob with the fingertips to get it all the way home, somewhere near the glove box.

Hybrid electric makes more sense. Hydraulics are inherently less efficient than electric. A hydraulic pump is about 90% efficient, a hydraulic motor about the same, the combination is about 80%. An electric generator/motor combo is about 90% efficient. Direct drive might be a bit better than a hydraulic, in a 2WD, same or worse in a 4WD. Regenerative braking "recycles" about 15% of the energy put into the vehicle, a lot less than you would expect. The huge torque mulitplication available is great for burnouts and offroad use, though. And the ability to store energy means you don't need the 100 HP engine that normally runs around 15 -20 HP at cruise. But the hybrid can be built to give these advantages, too. The one advantage the hydraulic has is no batteries. But I am not sure what the energy storage density of an accumulator is. Maybe batteries are an advantage! Your 50 cc Justy might be OK in the bush, but it would be little slow on the road. It takes about 15 HP at the wheels for a little shoebox type vehicle to run down the road at 50 mph, so your 8 HP (at the wheels) might make 40?

Is this clip a round wire type clip? If so, this is the "normal" method other manufacturers use to keep the axles in the tranny. Subaru is weird (but better), as they use the splined stub shaft and roll pin. I have had trouble getting these things out on Corollas, where they were SUPPOSED to come out. I never did get one out, had to disassemble the axle in place on the car to replace the boot. Good thing their axles seem to run without boots longer than a Subaru's. It would be impossible to change. As long as you can get it to stay on the shaft, and still go into the tranny, it should be fine. There isn't usually much axial pull on these anyway. Although you say this one is worn? Perhaps your previous problem battered it half to death?

What's the best method for loosening and tightening the axle nut? Yesterday 12:30 PM A breaker bar with appropriate socket and a piece of pipe to loosen. A 1/2" drive torque wrench to tighten.

Zefy, where the heck did you get one of those trannies in Canada? Did you import it? Do you have plans for it, or do you want to sell it to someone who could really use it? (Assuming the weather ever goes back to normal up here in Terrace...) My AWD Corolla had this setup. It works way better than 4WD in the winter, as you don't get the back end sliding out on sharp turns near as badly. It is a real pain to remember to knock out the 4WD when approaching tight corners. (Yes, rally slides are fun, but they usually aren't appropriate when driving down public roads. Scares the other folks...)

185/70 -13 is what you want. 185/75 probably won't fit under the hood in the spare tire holder, although they will fit the wheels fine. 185/70 is just about the same outer diameter as the 165/80-13's. They are a lot commoner these days than the 165/80, although both are getting harder to find. I can't hardly find 165/80-13's at ANY price, let alone a bad one! If available, they will be cheaper than a 185/70 of the same model of tire. There seems to be a lot of different stock tire sizes out there. My '93 Loyale wagon came with 165/80-13's, according to the manual, door jamb, etc.

I believe "How To Keep Your Subaru Alive" recommends taking the hub off the vehicle to have the axle pressed out. Don't believe it, it should just come out with a few whacks of a hammer. Lots of good posts on this forum describing a much easier process than the book shows. When turning the wonky DOJ, does the shaft turn, but not the hub? If so, then the hub is pretty likely shot, as GD suggests. If the axle doesn't turn, then it is probably the axle. They are cheap enough.

I am going to stand by my last sentence. Don't blame the grease YOU put on, blame the grease someone else OMITTED. A spline should fit the hub within a few .0001's of an inch. Not .001, .0001. There should be virtually no play perceptible. One of the sources of wear is called fretting corrosion. The spline wears as it transfers torque, because the teeth of the shaft bond to the teeth in the hub, then break away when the torque reverses. It is just a minute amount of bonding, microsopic. The wear appears as corrosion products. The wear is similar to that seen by gear teeth. If you look at a spline, it even looks like a gear, the shape is the same. Lubrication stops the spline from bonding, and prevents wear. Once the wear has started, the play gets worse and worse as the loads seen by the splines get higher and the torque reversals more obvious. The fretting increases. It may get to the point where it isn't really fretting anymore, just plain wear as the hub slops around. http://www.engineeringtalk.com/news/skf/skf162.html http://www.hghouston.com/Technical%20FAQs/TFAQ106.html I am not just making this up, as the links above prove.