robm

There are half a dozen relays under the dash where you hear that clicking. I believe they normally just energize when the car is running, they don't click on and off. I could be wrong, and XT's maybe have different relays there (I am used to Loyales). Any weird effects when they click? Does the fan go out and come back, or the headlights, or ? Does it happen when the heat is on? (These relays get heat-related flakiness when old.)

Check the cam timing. It can be off a tooth, and idle smooth as can be, but get poor mileage, poor power, and run a bit warm.

The EGR solenoid valve and the purge control solenoid valve are identical except for the connectors. It is possible that you won't find a good one in the PnP, Even the old Toyotas etc. that can provide a replacement are getting scarce in the yards. At least, that is my experience around here. I found a generic EGR solenoid on Ebay out of India for $22 with shipping. Its connector will plug directly into EGR connector on the Loyale, Then you can use the EGR solenoid as a purge control solenoid by cutting off the old purge control connector and soldering it onto the EGR solenoid. It works fine. No more CEL is nice. I don't think it had any effect on drivability, though.

Sounds more like normal wear then, with pins that don't slide perfectly, but aren't too bad. Make sure you grease them up.

No. That is the way the mechanism works. They are the same on both front doors. Japanese car, sold world wide, so it works for cars sold in Japan, Oz, India etc. as well, where our "passenger" door is their "driver's side" door. Does it work the same on the rear doors? Some cars do, some don't. If they don't, maybe you can adapt a rear door mechanism to the front passenger door?

That method doesn't really work, because you are measuring gauge pressure (pressure above atmospheric), so if it works, it should be 14.7 x (CR-1). But that is way too low, as it ignores temperature rise due to compression, and dynamic effects of the air moving into the cylinder. Even with a CR of 8.5:1, you can see over 150 PSI on the gauge, which would never happen if that formula was accurate. So, find the engine with the highest compression figures, and with the least spread between cylinders. It is not an accurate measurement, just a good guess at finding a motor that has plenty of life left in it.

I answered your brake question in its own thread, but here you say it pulls left? In the other thread it pulls right? Which is correct? Either way, fix the brakes and test again, it will probably disappear. Normally, the temp gauge on a Loyale is just above cold, maybe an 1/8" or so. That is with a proper T-stat that works.

I only get about 40,000 miles out of belts without covers. But 10,000 miles is too short. I would be leery of running a used belt, even if it says SUBARU on it. If I were you, I would get another belt to keep handy, and carry the tools for a road-side replacement.

The EJ engine complicates the motor/tranny mounts a bit. What do you use for mounts, and where do they go? No flex in the mounting points for them, is there? I once had a ride in a beast of an F250 on a bad, bad road, The owner used a bungee cord to stop the shift lever from bouncing out of 4 low into neutral. Would this help in the short term, until you can get it sorted properly?

I thought you said the passenger side was the one with the worn pad? This is complicated: If only the inner pad is wearing, this means the caliper slide pin is not sliding, so only one pad is used, and this should give you a pull to the left. But if the pad is really worn (to the metal) it may pull to the right. (Like you are seeing.) Then again, maybe something else is wrong. Best bet is to replace the brake pads and rotors, and make sure the caliper slide pins are clean, well greased, and move freely. Also make sure the piston boots are in good shape, and the pistons screw back in easily (not frozen). Go out and drive it for a few days to bed in the pads and rotors, then test it all over again. Chances are the problem will go away. If it doesn't, get back to the USMB. Good luck.

Test mode: Connect the green connectors under the hood by the driver's side firewall. Turn on the ignition. You should hear the relays under the dash clicking, and the fuel pump running. They cycle on and off for 2 seconds or so. If the pump doesn't run, check that the relay is OK. If worse comes worst, power the fuel pump directly from the battery (a wire direct to the red wire on the pump).

There are lots of fuel pump threads on here. Is yours an SPFI or carb?

+1 on the oil pump. Before replacing the belts, pull the oil pump and check that the bearing surface is good. Might as well get new O-rings for it at the same time. I had one seize and snap the belt. The fact it was low on oil probably caused the oil pump damage. Kind of like the heart, the first thing the oil pump lubricates is itself.

Interesting. Less preload, but a stiffer spring from removing the 1/2 coil. I am not sure if the spring seat would let you do that? But it would probably drop the back end a bit.

Check that the calipers aren't binding on the slide pins, and the pistons are free to move in and out (not seized). My Loyale had a sticky piston, it pulled right for years until it seized entirely, and I noticed because it would pull right normally, and left on braking.

Yeah, well he asked what size the nut was, and got the right answer. If he is looking for nuts at the local Fasteners'R'Us, that is what he needed to know. But he needed to know the size of wrench to take with him to the PnP to acquire some, and this didn't come out until 2 posts later. It is just as important to ask the right question, as it is to read it carefully.

If the rear shocks are new, they may be ones intended for sedans instead of wagons. They are listed as the same these days, but they aren't The sedan shocks with wagon springs preload the springs a bit more than the proper struts do,, so the car sits higher at the back.

They should be the same from 1991 to 1992.

Sounds like you need to bleed the brakes some more.

M24x1.5 is correct. That is the size of the threads, not the nut that goes on the thread. So the nut is 36 mm across the flats. Just like the wrench for a 1/4-20 UNC nut/bolt is 7/16".

And broken timing belts aren't an issue on the EA82 anyway.

Is the diaphragm that opens the secondary in good shape? If it has a hole, it won't open. The port may be OK.

The owner's manual here in Canada specifies 90,000 km, which is 55,000 miles. I have had them last 90,000 plus a bit, with covers on. I have never had them last to 80,000 km without covers. 70- 75,000 is as much as I can get, it seems. But as the covers usually come off in pieces, they are hard to put back on. And I prefer to run with the centre cover on, as it comes off easily, and helps keep oil, antifreeze, sticks, etc. out of the moving bits.

Measuring the seals and rods with vernier calipers might tell you what is going on. Would it be possible to get generic seals from a bearing supplier to fit? Or are these hydraulic seals something special, because they see high pressure? If standard oil seals won't do it perhaps there are standard hydraulic cylinder seals that would?

And not a scrap of duct tape in sight...