robm

Just compare the "blank" with the key to be copied, it will be easy to see if it will work or not.

A quick Google search comes up with a thread about converting a Geo Metro (rebadged Suzuki) to diesel with a Kubota 3 banger. I wonder if something similar was tried with a Justy?

It can be done, as long as the "blank:" doesn't have dips where you need bumps.

A faulty CTS can cause all sorts of starting issues. Fix that, and see what happens.

Those numbers line up better with my calculations. But doesn't the dual piston/dual diagonal brake circuit also come into play, reducing the mechanical advantage? The MC is dual piston, and each piston drives one front and one rear brake. So stock advantage is about 6.73:1, and the modified MC will provide about 8.23:1? Or is there something else going on here? And actually, the larger number is more mechanical advantage, not less. The pedal travels further, but takes less force to provide the same clamping force the wheel. But then the rest of the geometry comes in, like rotor diameter etc. Also, I had a look at MC's on Rockauto, just to see what was going on. Why are these MC's 3 port? What does the 3rd port do? Now I am interested, I might as well learn all I can about these things. Thanks for the education.

It is good to know you guys have thought about this, and are not just going out with a "bigger is better" attitude. With larger brake cylinders, the larger MC is an improvement. I am not quite sure I agree with your numbers? For instance, 1-1/16" = 27 mm dia. which has an area of pi*27*27/4 = 572 mm2. Also, that is a dual piston - which makes a difference. And dual diagonal, vs. setting them up as front/rear makes a difference too. I can see why proportioning valves get useful. I am not sure what you have done with your numbers, but as long as you remembered to square the diameter to get an area the proportions should be correct and everything should come out in the wash. I haven't been lucky enough to drive a car without power brakes since my last 510 bit the dust/rust. An advantage to servo-less brakes is faster response, even if a bit more force is needed. ABS not required if you can tap the brake pedal at 3 times per second, and the brakes actually come on and off. Worked great in the snow, and I bet it works on the rally circuit too. But I find modern brakes seem to be set up to need the additional force from the servo, so they get pretty hard to use without. In other words, the MC is too large for comfortable braking without it. The Datsun had a 3/4" MC. I can't find any specs on brake caliper and cylinder area, and I just gave away all my 510 books to someone who could use them. (Never fails, you never need something till you get rid of it!) It would be interesting to compare the 2 systems.

I am not sure why you regard a larger diameter master cylinder as an "upgrade"? The new MC will not provide the same amount of force at the wheel cylinders as the original. People have commented above that the pedal seems "firmer". Can you still lock all 4 wheels on dry pavement with this set-up? Can your elderly mother still lock all 4 wheels?

It is not intuitively obvious, but the combustion event adds so little to the dynamic forces of the pistons, rods and crank moving that it doesn't make any difference to the balance to fire both pistons on the same side consecutively. Also, if you look at it, that is the way it has to happen. Imagine if the firing order was 1-4-2-3. This goes from left to right, but then has to fire 2 after 4, as that is when the #2 piston is coming up on TDC on compression. Then it goes from 3 to 1 to restart the cycle, so it is the same as if it went from 1 - 3 at the beginning. Overall, it is 6 to one half dozen of the other.

With fuel pump prpblems, I would look at the relay before changing the pump. Plug the green connectors together, and make sure the fuel pump pulses when the ignition is on, but the engine not turning. IF not, it is probably the relay gone flaky.

Let's hope you are going to get real D1062 transistors. Fake transistors, especially large power transistors, are really common.

Might be a filter, but mostly it is like an air receiver, kind of like a capacitor for vacuum. Gives a little volume, so it smooths out any pulses in the suction from the intake.

That straight weight 30 is not the best stuff to run in the winter. It is hard to pump when cold. 10W-30 gets into the bearings faster.

Any one with a hack good enough to win this contest doesn't need the book.....

Fuel pump relay? They get flaky with age. They can work fine when cold, then open up when they get warm. So the car starts fine, then stops running when the car is warmed up with the heat on full blast. When it happens, plug the green connectors under the hood together, and listen for the fuel pump to run. It will cycle on and off with the connectors together and the ignition on, but the engine not running.

Is this the same axle that needed a 7 ton puller to get the bearing off? Expect similar grief on reassembly.

The first part of the process is similar to doing CV axles. Then you start on the bearings.

You don't need to pull the tie rod to get the CV axle out. Don't even try, you will just ruin something else. Instead, pull the pivot bolt at the inside of the arm. That will allow enough play to swing the hub out and get the CV axle out of the bearings. And it will all go back together in exactly the same place, no need to get the wheels aligned.

I am in the long, slow process of replacing my rear struts on my 4WD Loyale. They are very similar to yours. The lower bolts needed a 3 ft breaker bar to crack, then they were hard to get off. The upper ones needed a 3 ft breaker bar all the way off, with a piece of pipe on the bar to crack them. That was with spritz lube applied before and during the operation. It was hard work. I got an M12 x 1.25 tap and die to clean up the bolts and the welded-on nuts. I hope they will go back together more easily. Currently, I am waiting for my mechanic to assemble the springs on the new shocks, as there is nowhere in town I can borrow or even buy spring compressors. I got the tap and die from KBC Tools out of Missauga. They have an American outlet as well. They were C$30 with shipping and taxes. I ordered them Saturday afternoon, and they were delivered by mail on Wednesday. I would say price and quality is decent and service is awesome.

I find that running without covers reduces the lifespan of the belts by about 25%. This may be an environmental thing, and I suspect that Jeszek's experience is more pertinent to your location. I supect Queensland is more like the Honduras than northern British Columbia, and he has great results. The torque used to install the cover bolts has no effect on how hard they are to remove. I understand the inserts are brass, and they bond to the steel bolts galvanically. Often, the only way to remove the covers is in pieces. Leave the rear covers alone, as they have the timing marks on them. I prefer to keep the centre cover, as it covers the crank sprocket and other very low rotating bits. I believe it is the most effective in keeping debris out of the sprockets. It is bolted to the block, so the bolts come out, not like the inserts in the rear covers. Use the newish idlers etc. from the parts car. As for seals and water pump, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Good luck.

The sources on the 'Net recommend a maximum of 7.5" for that size of tire. I don't know what will happen if you put it on an 8" rim. Maybe there is an experienced tire person out there who can comment?

Those plugs are normally used to plug the drain holes in small boats. It will last for a while, but the problem I can see is that the rubber isn't designed to hold up to hot oil. Keep an eye on it. The problem is, it will work well for a while, then let you down big time some where down the road, after you had forgotten all about it. Just like the last plug did. If you pull off the pan, and repair it with a nut and bolt with a gasket both sides, it will probably have a longer life. Like to the end of the car's remaining life. My grandfather used to patch windshields with a nut, bolt, washers and inner tube gaskets. I am sure this would work on a Subaru oilpan as well as on a DeSoto windshield, if you choose the correct materials for the gasket.

At 90,000 it is just about time to do timing belts. The growl might be an idler bearing on its way out.

Check the rotor in the distributor. The securing screw can come out, and it won't deliver spark properly, but it can still look like it is turning.

I believe there is a switch inside the wiper motor that keeps it running until the wiper has completed a cycle. So a pulse starts the wiper, then the switch keeps it running until finished, and then a while later, another pulse starts it again. If this switch is dirty, it won't stay running. It will only run as long as the pulse is on. Pull it apart and clean the contacts. It is a bit fiddly, but can done.

Rather than remembering how much gas you put in last time: Run the fuel level down a long way. Fill it up till it shuts off. Then fill it again, till it shuts off again. (This will add about 1 quart more gas) Zero the trip meter. Run the fuel down a long way again. Use the same sequence to fill it. Use the new amount of fuel and the tripmeter reading to measure MPG. Don't worry about running it down to the same point. Although, once you get the hang of the gas guage, you can get it probably gas up within a couple of quarts of the same amount every time, but for precision, just fill it to the same point every time. The more gas you put in, the more accurate the MPG will be.