robm

Fuel pump relay under the dash? They get warm and stop working. Let them cool off, and away they go again. Usually, though, it the pump runs the car will. But it is worth checking. I had something similar going on, and finally changed the relay, It seemed to work, but I didn't get a long term chance to test it, as I wrecked the car a few weeks later.

Photos of this situaton would be wonderful, and would probably inspire more and better possible solutions. How much is your time worth? And how long would it take to go through small claims court?

You shouldn't need a new bracket. Just clean up any rust, and make sure the transistor case is really well connected to the body of the car (ground).

I figured out who makes them. The t-stat manufacturer is Tama. The Tama part number is W54E-82. There don't seem to be any in North America. The Stant Exactstat is Stant 48539. They are a little easier to come by here, but not much.

Wire it up so it won't drop. There are horror stories about what happens when a drive shaft breaks at the front u-joint and hits the road. Like a car on a pogostick... This exhaust pipe could do the same thing. Then, you will need a new cat and a new resonator section, for even more money than a simple weld job.

subaru forever, how did you get the bit out? What part fell in?

Just replacing them with new sealed beams would be a good start. They used to be $10 each? Quality aftermarket replacements with quartz halogen buibs are the tried and true upgrade. Look for name brands: Cibie, Hella, Marchal etc. But I don;t even know if they make this stuff anymore, that is 30 year old technology...

Exactly what Emily said. Car manufacturers don't build cars so much as assemble them. They specify many parts from catalogues from sub-contractors, sometimes they specify parts particular to the vehicle and have them made by others under contract. Often, the manufacturer will have more than one supplier, so they aren't screwed if one supplier gets flooded out, or has some other disaster. It would really suck if you couldn't build cars because your T-stat supplier was having problems, say. They don't put all their eggs in one basket. So, has anyone noted a manufacturer's name on a stock T-stat? Or on one that looked and worked as well as stock? I tried to get a Stant Xactstat, but it looks like the online supplier can't get it after all. I have a non-stock one right now, and the car does not warm up quickly, nor does it idle or behave properly, especially when not at full temperature. The T-stat is the first item on the list of things to play with, to see if it can be made to work correctly.

Does anyone know who makes the thermostats that Subaru sells in their cars? I know I got one a few years ago, from an online supplier. I needed a T-stat, and just put it on the list with a few other items. The one that came was made in Japan, and an identical match for the original. It worked perfectly. But I can't remember the name on the box. That supplier no longer lists a T-stat for these vehicles, so that is not an option. Anyone out there knwo who makes these things? Thanks.

If we all beg hin to come back, maybe he will sign up with a new name?

I once bought a Loyale with a bad FP relay. It was sold because the mechanics couldn't figure out what the problem was. It took me months to figure it out, as it was intermittent. Plug the green connectors together under the hood, and turn on the ignition. If the relay is OK, the fuel pump will cycle and will be very obvious. Try a hard wire direct from the battery to the pump to see if this makes it run. If so, crawl under the dash and change the relay.

Can you cut the filter apart and determine what was wrong with it? Oil filters are pretty simple devices, One that wouldn't even take oil from a working pump is very strange.

Did you put the timing belt covers back on? I find the belts last only about 60,000 km or so with the covers off. Covers on, they last 90,000 + and you get to change them before they die, no covers, and they break at much less.

Salt and mud can wind up on top of the tank and rust it out from the outside. If you can find the holes, they can be patched with JB Weld. Fuel fillers can also get rusted out from the outside.

Maybe use beer can metal as a shim instead of SS hose clamp? The aluminum is a better conductor than stainless.

How are you checking for spark? At the plug wire, with a plug, or just an arc off the coil - distributor lead? I had one that had a bad coil - distributor wire. It would make a spark in air at the end of the coil lead, but would leak and lose the spark through the distributor, plug lead and plug. What colour is the spark? Blue or orange? Another possibility is a bad fuel pump relay. These relays get flaky when old. They will work for a while when cold, then open when warmed up. But usually, it will fail when warmed up, and stop the car, but if the car is sitting in the sun when stopped, it will heat up and prevent the car from starting. A/C and ventitalion keeps it cool enough to operate when driving. Worth a look, anyway. When it won't work, plug the green connectors together, turn on the igniiton and listen for the relay to click and the fuel pump to operate, on-off, about a 2 second interval. Good luck.

BIgger hooks and bungie cord?

Stop leak products for transmissions and crankcases are NOT the same as stop leak products for cooling systems. They are compatible with lubricating oil. They contain chemicals that are supposed to soften and swell the rubber in the seals. However, in your case, the clutch has been ruined by the oil leaking out of the rear seal, so it is probably not worth trying one of these. Pull it apart, fix the clutch and the seal all at once. The only reason to try a seal swell in your case is if it is really dripping fast, and you can't get to it for a week or 2, but still not worth it it the clutch isn't hooking up.

There are also sales taxes. Here in BC, the seller doesn't necessarily fill in the cost fo the vehicle on the transfer form, the buyer does. Whether that number is filled in correctly or not depends on the honesty of the buyer, and how much he feels like paying 12% sales tax on a used car.

They tax your property based on what kind of car you drive???? MOVE!

You are right, it should be possible to apply the hill holder when moving up hill by applying the brake and clutch simultaneously. But it should release when the clutch is released. IF it dosen't then there is something wrong with the adjustment or the HH.

What kind of tax are you paying here? IS this some kind of road tax, or ?

No. It is under the floor on the passenger side back seat, just in front of the right rear wheel. Access is from underneath. There is a hole and grommet in the floor pan to bring the wiring inside the car.

I like to keep the rear and centre covers. The centre cover will keep most crap from getting into the works and comes off quite easily. This is mostly a pragmatic thing, as I have yet to get one of the side covers off in one piece. If I could, I would keep them on. I have not had any problems with stuff getting in the belts. However, I have yet to get the stated mileage out of a set of timing belts without the covers. So far, I have had 3 strip or break on me, at 40,000 miles or so. They are supposed to be changed at 55,000, so they shouldn't die that quickly. Maybe stuff is getting in, and is long gone by the time I look at it?

As DaveT said, this hose prevents your caburettor from icing up. It is most useful in high humidity climates when the temperature is just around freezing. It would probably help the engine to warm up faster in the extremely cold climate of Fairbanks. It may have more complex functions as well... Is it automated, so the valve opens and closes on its own, or is there a lever to flip from summer to winter? If the leve, it is simple carb icing prevention. Honda Civics of this era had a complex preheating system that was absolutely necessary to the proper operation of the carb. It was so finely tuned that it needed air of a certain temperature to give the right mixture. The Brat may have a similar system?