robm

I didn't have A/C on mine, it just energized with the ignition switch, then the speed selector would put power to the fan. The wiring diagrams with A/C are confusing. It sounds like you have simplfied it to the point wher it is workable.

Epoxy doesn't bond to waxy plastics like polypropylene at all.

These relays get flaky with age. They will work fine when tested, then stop working after being energized for a while (minutes, hours, etc.) It seems to be a temperature problem, so pulling it out and testing it on the bench to see if it is flaky won't work, as it is not in the same environment as it in place under the dash with the heater going. The coil stays energized, but the contacts don't make. Get one from the wrecker. Better yet, get the whole block of 4 from the wrecker. The next to go is the fuel pump relay, and that is a real pain.

They wouldn't say "OUT" if it didn't matter. And all the later ones I have come across (1992+) have it stamped on them. Maybe because Subaru found too many problems with people putting them on wrong?

8" of snow on ice, and the thing just goes and goes. Compare that to my fun in the 10" or so of snow we got Friday, trying to get a new Ford Focus courtesy car out of the parking lot and into my driveway. It was OK on the street where cars had worn some ruts and flattened the snow, but any kind of fresh snow was hopeless. It has snowies, too. I think it was getting high centred in the fresh stuff. 160 HP, FWD, no ground clearance = walking when it snows. I can't wait to get my Subaru back. Although I think the snow has finally quit up here.

I have to correct I75eya. The rounded washer goes on with the convex side OUT, not towards the cone washer. Most of them actually say "OUT" on the side that goes out. Helps a lot. I never knew there was a practical use for hub caps before. Catching parts is a new one.

81EA81 said: "Like the Sucker king said, the C.V axle is designed to be a pressed fit through the wheel bearing,the spindles are normally machined slightly larger then the bearing. Your C.V axle was likely the right size, it is the rebuild or remanufactured units that slide right in that have been tampered with.Its an easy install,but its not right." The press fit is why you have to pry it in with hammers, and then suck it on with the axle nut. It is supposed to be a light press fit. I have changed several, OEM and aftermarket. All the OEM's went on and off without a press, just prying and the axle nut. I much prefer the slip-fit aftermarket ones, even if it isn't quite right. What I had was a joint that did not go into the bearings. This was proved by the fact that they needed a press to get the bearing off, and it took all the force the press had to get it to move. It came off with a bang, which is NOT normal. And it wasn't even on all the way, not even far enough to get the axle nut on. I figure that joint was too large, and tapered as well. But without a micrometer, there is no way to be sure.

Sounds good. What does it look like?

2001 Forester is the vehicle. I knew that system was a mistake. It started yesterday. The central locking system is locking the doors on its own. I came out at lunch, and had to unlock with the key. The same after lunch. The same at the end of the day. When I drove home, it had locked me in, and it wouldn't let me out! It kept locking the door as soon as I opened it, or else it wouldn't unlock at all. As I was sitting ther playing with it and trying to figure it out, I could hear it trying to lock spontaneously, click-click-click...It seemed to have stopped when I got out. This morning, it was locked again. And once I got in, the battery was too flat to start the engine, probably because this thing was running all night. 1. What is probably wrong with it? 2. How can I fix it? 3. Can I just pull the fuse to get it going? What else do I lose if I pull the fuse? 4. Maybe it would be better to unplug it. Where can I unplug it? IN the door or is there somewhere under the dash that will be easier to access? I need the car to get to Prince George on Sunday, 400 miles or so, and will be there far from home and tools for a week or 2, so I need a quick fix to get me going. Thanks.

I had one that would not go on. It was a rebuild, with a new NTN outer joint, which are normally quality parts. I couldn't get it through the inner bearing far enough to even get the nut on the end. Finally, I took it back to NAPA, complete with the inner bearing. I told them I wanted the bearing back, and a new shaft the right size. They took it to the shop next door to salvage my bearing. The bearing came off, in a press, with a lot of work and swearing and drama when it finally popped. At first, they were just being nice, "customer is always right", but after seeing how much work it was to get the bearing off, they realized I was right. That shaft was not built properly. We hear about knock-off parts from China. I wonder if this CV joint just said NTN, but was a counterfeit? No way to tell without a micrometer.

Does it have AC? Maybe the drain tube is blocked/frozen, so instead of getting rid of the moisture on defrost, it just recycles it back on to the windshield?

Another point I forgot the first time: Make sure the load rating is close to the same as stock. The 165/65-R15's might be lower than the 165/80-R13's. I wouldn't use less than about 82T on a tire used hard, year round. ( I go a bit less on winter tires, because all I can find are 155/80-R13's. But then I make sure i don't go fast, and try to keep the loads down, but I wouldn't want to drive like this all the time.) I can't find any major manufacturer that makes that size.

The diameter is really close to stock 165/80-R13. The wheels that come with the stock spare tire do not fit normal tires. Standard 15" wheels redrilled for 4 x 140 may be too wide for 165 tires, but it is worth finding out. What is the recommended width for that tire? What width are your rims?

That looks like a good deal. $190 for parts, $20 to ship, $30 for brokerage. Extra 10% because our dollar in in the toilet. Taxes will be extra, charged at the border, but you can 't get away from them, and better than being taxed on $400...

Thanks. I have a Forester now, too, and I miss all the room in the Loyale. I also miss 10+ km/liter around town...

http://www.autopartsway.ca http://www.bestpricecarparts.ca/ These ones are pretty good for Loyale parts. They look pricier than US sources, but by the time you pay shipping, brokerage, duty, and taxes on all of the above, they are pretty competitive. Shipping is pretty fast. Rock Auto is a possibility, too. They ship to Canada, but brokerage can put the cost up immensely. Do you still have any Loyales you want to get rid of?

Then something changed. Air in the brake lines is unlikely. A sticky pin is very possible. Pull it apart and inspect. Clean and grease the pins. Look for leaky brake lines. Maybe a clip has come loose and the pad is cocking. It only take a few minutes, but I know, it is really cold outside!

TIres that fit include: 165/80R-13, 185/70R-13, 175/70/R-13 (small), 155/80R-13 (small, low max. load). The first 2 are difficult to find new. They are virtually the same diameter. They are probably closest to the original tire diameter and load rating, and should give you the most correct speedometer reading. There may be others that fit, but they are even less common than the ones above. If looking for used tires, 165/80's are a good bet. At one time, the were the commonest tire on small cars like this. What doe the car have on right now? If forced to run mismatched tires, put the odd one on the back.

The 175/70's are closest to the original tire in terms of load capacity. If you want a single set of tires for all year, they are the best bet. No worries about max. load, speed or heat. 155/80's will fit, but they have reduced load capacity compared to the original stock tires. That being said, they have about the same capacity as the original tires, at the original, low speed, light load inflation pressure, when inflated to maximum rated pressure (35/36 psi). I don't recommend them for all year use. They are not good for high speed and/or full loads. I have 165/80's for summer (Kumho and Toyo still have them, last I looked, also some cheap Chinese brands). I use 155/80 snow tires in winter. I keep them inflated to 36 psi, and try to keep the loads down. SInce it is winter, and often snowy and icy where I live, it is easy to keep the speeds down. TIres are the hardest parts to find for these cars.

How about a new distributor cap? A bad cap can act like a bad coil wire, if the pickup electrodes are badly worn.

Try having someone put their foot on the brakes, HARD! Then use the breaker bar and a piece if pipe.

I seem to recall this relay turns on with the ignition, but I don't know if the ignition puts 12 V to the coil, (probably) or provides the coil with ground, Check that it is getting 12 V to the hot side of the coil. Check that there is ground on the other side. Working on these relays is a total PITA. One good thing is all the relays that look the same, are the same, and you can swap them around to test if you have a bad one.

You are right. 50 RPM is more like it. It has been a long time since I had to do this. The best thing to do is to get it running right and reliably, then lean it out a bit to get it through the test.

The OP is supposed to be in New England. Despite generations of emigration from the Canadian Maritimes to that part of the US, Canada still hadn't annexed it, last I heard.

???? From the specs you gave, the pistons are the same? If 251 pistons don't fit, why not?