roxtar

long time, no post. anyway, I picked up a 97 outback last winter as a beater. I just got her inspected and she passed, but now i have a new list of stuff I should probably do. first and foremost are the inner tie rod ends. I've done outers before on other cars, but inners are a PITA and I'm likely to tear the outer boots anyway when I'm getting to the inner ends. The question is: Can I buy the "complete" tie rod assembly from rock auto (listed as being for the euro market) and just bolt them up?

been a while since i've been back to visit the USMB... any updates on the project scott?

forget FR or 4x4 drivelines.... turn that puppy into a MR beast. you'll have to do a lot of fabrication anyway, and with the engine between the axles, you won't have the weight problems. biggest issue i can see is with shifter linkage and sealing off the engine bay from the passenger compartment. that and converting the front end..... new idea, the v8 pushing the back wheels and the ea82 pushing the front! 2 engines, 2 trannies (have to go auto unless you want that much of a tranny nightmare)

<off topic> concerning the rebel flag and it's display. this is something i wrote on another forum a few months ago </off topic> in any case, i think a general lee lambo would be awesome.

holy crap scott... that thing is gonna be awesome! i may have to swing by and check it out in person. where and when are you moving?

that is AWESOME!!!!!

i bought the hella supertones dualtone horn kit and i'm about to install them on my toyota matrix. i've heard them on other people's cars.... they are definitely LOUD!

if it never fully grabs, you're going to constantly slip.

sounds like possibly a dead clutch to me.

hydrolock i.e. water in cyl is one possibility engine siezed up due to overheating and lack of oil?(warped or melted engine block) will the engine turn-over at all when you try to start it or is it completely locked?

yup, general tune-up and O2 sensor is the best place to start

i think that the haynes says you need a press for the bearings. i had a bad bearing in my loyale and it sounded more like a rumble than clicks... i'd lean towards the cv.

the torn cv boot that spewed grease all over the engine comparment, the stench that wouldn't die, the warning lights that turned on and off for no reason whatsoever, that gurgling of coolant every time she started because there was air trapped in the heater, the chunks of gravel that were permanently stuck in the oil that had collected on the skid plate, showing everyone where the spare tire lives... pushing the button and driving over an embankment to get around a construction zone... good times :'(

well, i offered it up to you guys, but nobody wanted my trusty old loyale. she is now down at sonny's used auto parts in culpepper va

my new toyota with the 2zz-ge engine is 5000 miles. revs to 8200 before hitting the fuel cutoff. 180 n/a horsepower out of 1.8 liters

does the engine burn any oil at normal temperatures? If so, i'd say stick with something thicker and maybe just use an electric space heater to warm your engine before starting. i think you should be able to find a heater designed to keep your engine block warm in cold weather http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/english/media/block.cfm

wow, first time i've ever heard that phrase. i'll have to stop by sometime and check out the new ride man.

right, my new car has 2 fuel cut-offs for different operating temps. the cold one is at 7k and the regular, warm one is at 8200. redlining a cold motor is no good

mine has shift-on-the-fly single range, also called push-button 4wd. i think some models came with a d/r but i'm not sure. my brother in law had a subbie wagon with d/r but i think it might have been a gl instead of a loyale.

from what i've seen/experienced/read, only use the push-button 4wd to get yourself out of a situation unless you're driving in heavy snow-ice or deep mud. it is also imperative that all your tires are the same size/inflation/level of wear. unfortunately, there is no just replacing 2 tires for us. i blew out a rear tire on a road hazard (covered by costco warranty) and had to replace all 4 of my almost new tires because they HAD to be exactly the same.

yeah, that part that spins at the bottom is one thing you really do need to put back perfectly, otherwise its like advancing or retarding your ignition timing like mad. if it's way off, you won't get a damn thing out of the engine, but if its only a little off, you can seriously start breaking things in the engine when it fires halfway thorugh the compression stroke or something and makes the engine try and turn backwards

I don't know of any problems that having extra fluid in your transmission could cause, but then again, my expertise is in computers and not transmissions. one part of your post worries me though. This is an automatic transmission which uses automatic transmission fluid. Gear oil is for use in manual transmissions. These 2 fluids are NOT interchangeable.

i've got a car that would work for you 92 loyale, 5sp push-button 4wd. has its problems so i'm looking to sell it cheap, (~$350) it runs and everything.... just not well. it's in northern VA. it also has fairly new tires, a new igniton coil, new front left suspension, and other decently new parts. e-mail me if you're interested jmurockstar@yahoo.com

Smoking is bad MMKay.

alternately, jack up all 4 corners and floor it, then get out and watch the wheels spin down.